Flexible fule line recomendation

Mike, OEM service replacements were the way to go until ethanol, now Shewman makes a correct flex line that is fuel resistant. Hr advertises in the V8 Times. Don’t get the one with the check valve.
 
Mike, OEM service replacements were the way to go until ethanol, now Shewman makes a correct flex line that is fuel resistant. Hr advertises in the V8 Times. Don’t get the one with the check valve.

I've heard of him Alan. Thanks.
Might you have the contact information?
I don't feel the need for an additional check valve.

I have a number of NOS lines that hold vacuum. Like you I believe, I no longer trust these in service.
 
I've had Shewman fuel lines in my '34 and '37 Fords for many years. Both have backflow valves, and I have never had any trouble with them.
 
Why is the check valve a bad idea? just one more thing to fail?

I'm not certain if the valve is a troublesome piece or not. What I am certain of is there is no need for such a thing. There is a check valve integral of the fuel pump. So why add another?
 
Mike, here's his contact info:
Robert Shewman
PO Box 163, Kimberton, PA
Tel. 610-933-6637
email: gadgiteer@aol.com

He sells original types without the check-valve and those with the redundant check-valve for those who believe fuel can drain back to the tank.
The original was made by Weatherhead, # 11009. Service replacements can still be found having a paper label with a 1941 date. This is as good as it gets for originality, but are not compatible with ethanol fuel. What happens is that the internal structure of the line softens and collapses, blocking fuel delivery. It being internal, it won't show any symptoms externally.
 
I read that rubber (flexible) fuel line hose can contribute to vapor lock. Maybe just someone's theory? I am using some but have it wrapped with aluminum foil and have not had any vapor lock since. I have also seen pictures where the copper line from pump to carburetor has 3 or 4 coils, for some reason.
 
For flexible fuel lines I use fuel injection hose. It's definitely not harmed by ethanol.
 
I read that rubber (flexible) fuel line hose can contribute to vapor lock. Maybe just someone's theory? I am using some but have it wrapped with aluminum foil and have not had any vapor lock since. I have also seen pictures where the copper line from pump to carburetor has 3 or 4 coils, for some reason.

I like extra butter on my popcorn, please.
 
>>Maybe just someone's theory? I am using some but have it wrapped with aluminum foil and have not had any vapor lock since. I have also seen pictures where the copper line from pump to carburetor has 3 or 4 coils, for some reason.>>>>>s I use fuel injection hose.>>>>>>I like extra butter on my popcorn, please>>>>>>


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Mike, here's his contact info:
Robert Shewman
PO Box 163, Kimberton, PA
Tel. 610-933-6637
email: gadgiteer@aol.com

He sells original types without the check-valve and those with the redundant check-valve for those who believe fuel can drain back to the tank.
The original was made by Weatherhead, # 11009. Service replacements can still be found having a paper label with a 1941 date. This is as good as it gets for originality, but are not compatible with ethanol fuel. What happens is that the internal structure of the line softens and collapses, blocking fuel delivery. It being internal, it won't show any symptoms externally.

Thanks Alan.
I'll call him tomorrow.
 
Do you heat/soften it before putting it on the barb? I've found injection hose to be very hard to push onto barb fittings.

You are probably using SAE30R9 spec INSTEAD OF SAE30R7. 30R7 has the same ethanol characteristics as 30R9 but designed for low pressure (carburetor) use
 
For flexible fuel lines I use fuel injection hose. It's definitely not harmed by ethanol.

I second the fuel ingestion hose. It's really good stuff. I was a fleet mechanic for 30 years and originally, we used the regular fuel line, it was okay, but it would eventually get soft and bulge or hard and crack. We started using the fuel injection hose for its replacement and that stuff would practically last forever. We usually kept vehicles for at least 15-years.
 
The check valve may be for folks that have changed to an electric pump back by the tank. Folks do al sorts of mods on old cars whether they are an easy fix or not. The OEM was good enough for grandpop to it's good enough for me as long as it keeps functioning and parts are available.
 
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