I'm sure I'm not the first with this problem. Maybe someone out there can offer a solution. Left hand header won't clear steering box. 59A into 37. Wary of grinding header, as casting only looks to be about 3/8" thick at critical spot. Ditto concern re grinding steering box. My solution is loosen anti-rattle rods, re-drill water pump mounting holes on cross member about an inch to the right, trim one side of right rubber biscuit to fit, re-install mounting bolts and re-tighten rods. Any pros or cons, or better ideas? Thanks, for your ideas. Help most appreciated.
Fit Problem - Left Fenton Header
- Thread starter 91A-77B
- Start date
Mart
Well-known member
Offsetting the engine is not normally an option in a Ford due to the necessity of keeping the torque tube on center.
Have you taken that into account? Can you gain anything by altering height? How a combination of steering box trimming, manifold trimming and possibly milling the manifold face, on an angle possibly if it would help.
Ford motors don't move much, you don't need massive amounts of clearance.
Heat would need to be monitored.
Mart.
Have you taken that into account? Can you gain anything by altering height? How a combination of steering box trimming, manifold trimming and possibly milling the manifold face, on an angle possibly if it would help.
Ford motors don't move much, you don't need massive amounts of clearance.
Heat would need to be monitored.
Mart.
Ronnieroadster
Well-known member
I was always under the impression the Fenton's were designed for the latter frames like yours I'm surprised there's a problem.
On our Deuce coupe i was able to get an original left side Fenton cast iron header to fit by angle milling the header mounting pads so that it fit closer to the engine block. I also modified the F-1 steering box body at the point of contact so that it just clears. The cast iron Fenton's were never designed to go in a Deuce chassis but I was able to get that left side header to clear.
Ronnieroadster
On our Deuce coupe i was able to get an original left side Fenton cast iron header to fit by angle milling the header mounting pads so that it fit closer to the engine block. I also modified the F-1 steering box body at the point of contact so that it just clears. The cast iron Fenton's were never designed to go in a Deuce chassis but I was able to get that left side header to clear.
Ronnieroadster
Jack E/NJ
Well-known member
> > My solution is loosen anti-rattle rods, re-drill water pump mounting holes on cross member about an inch to the right, trim one side of right rubber biscuit to fit, re-install mounting bolts and re-tighten rods > >Thanks, for your ideas> >
My solution was to dimple a steel header with a hammer.
My solution was to dimple a steel header with a hammer.
36and63
Senior Member
I had the same issue with my Fenton's on my 36 pickup, it seemed pretty normal to have to modify to fit them due to the steering box issue as stated. I asked years ago on the Barn and many said this was common. Can't say if this is only on the ones made now vs. originals from back in the day. I went ahead and ground mine to fit which took awhile, I was cussing the entire time! I only removed just enough to clear and have never had any issues with them. They really sound good and wouln't hesitate doing it again.
I put Reds on my AV8 roadster and they fit with no mods needed and sound really good as well.
Pat
I put Reds on my AV8 roadster and they fit with no mods needed and sound really good as well.
Pat
Thanks, all. I figure an inch to the right at the water pumps translates into about half that at the trans mount, meaning little deflection at the universal, which is its job anyway. Objective is to use the old KISS principle, which at 84, is one of the only ways a guy can get one, right? Absent any other good ideas, I'm going to try my idea, and report results in a later post. Thanks, Barners! FHF!
I did the grind thing to make a little room plus rounded off the edge of the sterring box; even after all that it was still too tight for my taste. This was a 59A in a 39 DLX. I have no clue why Speedway would even bother to tool up a Fenton casting that didnt fit a flathead in a 40 Ford. Anyway, I sent it off to the late John Lawson and he resurfaced the block flanges at an angle and that gave me ample room to avoid cooking my steering box lubricant.
If doing again, I'd skip the repop Fentons and use steel headers.
If doing again, I'd skip the repop Fentons and use steel headers.
Bored&Stroked
Well-known member
I'm with JHFord51 . . . get rid of the repop headers that don't fit and contact Red's Headers for a set that does.
deuce_roadster
Well-known member
As my late friend who did the machine work on my flatheads told me, just for laughs when he had a flathead on the dyno, he tested the Fentons against STOCK exhaust manifolds and there was NO change in performance. So why mess with them? Forget about moving the engine over or angling it to use Fenton headers. Oh and when you grind through them you can either throw them away or get someone to repair them.