First Flathead Build

"Now where am I supposed to drill these holes?"

The holes are drilled into the lifter bores in the block, not the lifters themselves. The holes need to line up with in recesses in the lifters.
 

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"Now where am I supposed to drill these holes?"



The holes are drilled into the lifter bores in the block, not the lifters themselves. The holes need to line up with in recesses in the lifters.



Gotcha. I take it that is so you can put a pin in there when adjusting so that the lifters don’t just spin in the bore? Makes sense


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Here's a couple shots of the lifter pinning holes!

Thanks, Gary in N.Y.

P.S. Mentioned above, drill them as low as possible without breaking through on the edge of the casting. We drill them with a 12" 3/16" bit, all by hand.
 

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Like this, but I can tell you those solid lifters are real hard to hold and adjust. I put a set my 8BA and it really is a chore to adjust them. if I had it to do again I would go with the hollow ones.
 

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A little progress, got the bumpstick out.

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Just about ready to send to the machine shop. I found a place 20min from the house that has flathead experience.

My next question; I don’t have a parts washer or blast cabinet. What do y’all suggest for parts prep? Paint stripper and varsol? I’d like to reuse as much as possible and also get to know each part well as this is my first rebuild.


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Wire wheel does a good job of cleaning off old varnished parts, but do not use it on aluminum.
I once cleaned an entire truck frame with a wire wheel on a drill and a scraper. Ruined the drill motor, but I got it done.
 
I got the engine turning over before tearing it down so feel I started from an easier place than some other projects I looked at.


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I had picked up a cheap parts washer about 10 yrs ago on sale and never used it until a few months back. I purchased two 5 gal parts cleaner fluid and couldn't be happier. No mess, cleaned the parts much better than I could have imagined including all brake related stuff. Will use on my banjo rear diff when I tear it down.

This is what I got from Princess Auto here in the great North = Harbor Freight.

https://www.princessauto.com/en/detail/20-gallon-parts-washer-with-pump/A-p8022392e

https://www.princessauto.com/en/detail/low-odour-solvent/A-p8047490e
 
The HF washer can be had for $75 with coupon so I’ll probably do that. Don’t know where I’m gonna set it up though... now that I’ve added an engine stand, hoist, and welding machine space in the shop is getting tight!


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One word “shelving” heavy duty enough for engine blocks!
No matter how big your shop is, space is always an issue, mine is 40’x50’, but with three cars, and all the equipment, it’s still tight.
 
A little off topic, but can somebody help me identify this build?
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It’s pretty much exact the direction if like to go. I feel like it’s a 27t, but is it on a custom frame?

There is a metal 23 with turtle deck for sale locally. But are those much smaller than a 27?


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In my opinion, a '23 and a '27 are two different styles. The '27 you show is a good example of a regular hot rod but a '23 can only be used as a "T" bucket; I have never seen one "stretched" like the '27 you show. However, if it's in any kind of shape at all, I'd buy it in a heartbeat. They ain't makin' them anymore. "Trade meat" if nothing more.

Members, please feel free to correct me about a '23 bodied "hot rod"; pictures appreciated.
 
I spoke to the machine shop I’m going to use and the prices seem really good! I’m going to put the push on and try to get it dropped off this weekend. Just a few more bits to remove.

With that said, what is this?
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Stubborn little bugger.

Also, anyone know the thread size to get this idler gear out?
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I think those are the last two pieces to come off. There is a sheared bolt also. Not sure if that needs to be removed or if I can get the ship to do it. They’ll probably get it faster than I will


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Oh, and should I drill the holes in the lifter note before machining or can it wait til after?


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I really enjoy watching your progress! I am waiting on my block to come back from the machine shop then I will be doing my rebuild. I’m looking for some adjustable lifters and vintage speed parts
 
The round object in your first picture is the sending unit for the King-Seeley electric oil pressure gauge.
 
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