Mike the Grump
Member
Good lookin Truck. Congrats!
EOG's 1928 Model A Pickup
- Thread starter Eccentric Old Guy
- Start date
Eccentric Old Guy
Senior Member
Wow......thanks for all the replies! 
Gives me a few things to think about while I'm waiting for delivery.
I wish there was a "like" button......as many of these replies deserve some recognition for the effort.
Thanks Gerry......I'll look for that book......I need some reading material!!!!!
odie, the eccentric old guy!
Gives me a few things to think about while I'm waiting for delivery.
I wish there was a "like" button......as many of these replies deserve some recognition for the effort.
Thanks Gerry......I'll look for that book......I need some reading material!!!!!
odie, the eccentric old guy!
Eccentric Old Guy
Senior Member
Thank you for the suggestion. Les Andrews book on the way, plus a copy of the original owners manual.
BTW: Interior look right to you guys?
odie, the eccentric old guy!
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30 Closed Cab PU
Well-known member
I had noticed that the exterior is correct, black headlamp shells, black radiator shell, cowl band painted body color. Truck wood originally would have been pained teh body/bed color. And someone already mentioned no rear bumpers originally.
Interior - Door Cards/kick panels would have been a black cardboard type material, would not have been covered with cloth/vinyl. There also was not a headliner. The floor boards originally were just stained/painted (dipped) black. looks like the shift knob and steering wheel are aftermarket. I do think your interior is very nice, just not original.
I really do like your truck.
Interior - Door Cards/kick panels would have been a black cardboard type material, would not have been covered with cloth/vinyl. There also was not a headliner. The floor boards originally were just stained/painted (dipped) black. looks like the shift knob and steering wheel are aftermarket. I do think your interior is very nice, just not original.
I really do like your truck.
CHuDWah
Well-known member
28 does not have cowl band. No doubt someone will correct if I'm wrong, but I believe brown upholstery and red steering wheel are correct for 28 - agree that shift knob is aftermarket. The steering column support attached under the dash rail is a 31 type. That's a fairly common modification because stress on the gas tank mounted support can cause leaks.
What's that cable(?) looped around the steering column?
A really nice truck. The advice given is very good, I would add to change out the carb, the Tilly is not the best for this motor etc. Also look into engine pans and by all means check out the fan blade. The original steel blade is dangerous at best. The new Aluminum are cast and excellent. All vendors sell them. Have fun with it. Jack
Charlie Stephens
Well-known member
Just a couple of more thoughts:
1) If you need to set the timing here is a little information that may come in handy. The first thing you do is to remove the timing pin from the timing cover. You reverse it and stick it into the hole so it contacts the timing gear. You turn the engine until the pin drops into a small dimple on the timing gear. The puts the engine in the correct position so you can now proceed to the distributer to set the timing. See the archives or service bulletin for the whole story. What you need to be aware of is the location of the pin is slightly different between the Model A and Model B engines. You have a Model A distributer and if you time it by the book you need a Model A front timing cover. You can find work arounds in the archives. I have attached a couple of photos. First the pin. Second a Model B timing cover showing the timing pin at the top of the oval boss. A very few timing covers were made using the oval boss with the timing pin at the bottom of the oval boss. Your truck has a Model A distributor and to time it correctly (by the book) you should see a circular boss that has been drilled for the timing pin.
2) In case you get hassled by someone about the rear license plate not being visible behind the bumper I have included a couple of pictures of how I modified the license plate bracket to mount the plate above the light.
3) When you lube it don't forget the throttle shaft that runs behind the engine (see photo), the distributer and the generator (if there is a place to lube, sometimes sealed bearings were used). These are places that are frequently overlooked.
4) Looks like a nice truck, have fun with it.
Charlie Stephens
1) If you need to set the timing here is a little information that may come in handy. The first thing you do is to remove the timing pin from the timing cover. You reverse it and stick it into the hole so it contacts the timing gear. You turn the engine until the pin drops into a small dimple on the timing gear. The puts the engine in the correct position so you can now proceed to the distributer to set the timing. See the archives or service bulletin for the whole story. What you need to be aware of is the location of the pin is slightly different between the Model A and Model B engines. You have a Model A distributer and if you time it by the book you need a Model A front timing cover. You can find work arounds in the archives. I have attached a couple of photos. First the pin. Second a Model B timing cover showing the timing pin at the top of the oval boss. A very few timing covers were made using the oval boss with the timing pin at the bottom of the oval boss. Your truck has a Model A distributor and to time it correctly (by the book) you should see a circular boss that has been drilled for the timing pin.
2) In case you get hassled by someone about the rear license plate not being visible behind the bumper I have included a couple of pictures of how I modified the license plate bracket to mount the plate above the light.
3) When you lube it don't forget the throttle shaft that runs behind the engine (see photo), the distributer and the generator (if there is a place to lube, sometimes sealed bearings were used). These are places that are frequently overlooked.
4) Looks like a nice truck, have fun with it.
Charlie Stephens
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Charlie Stephens
Well-known member
If I changed the carb it would be because it had problems and I would probably replace it with a Model B carb which is slightly larger than a Model A carb. The intake manifold is Model B which would go well with the slightly larger Model B carb.
Charlie Stephens
30 Closed Cab PU
Well-known member
So I noticed you highlighted the door cards/kick panels being black - is this correct or incorrect? I do not see you commenting on this.
I was pretty sure trucks did not have floor mats since they were more of a utility vehicle, and also what is what I have heard from club members and read somewhere.
Thanks for the corrections.
CHuDWah
Well-known member
My comment on door/kick panels is highlighted above. I may have confused by using the term "upholstery". I was including the door/kick panels as well as seat, but "interior" probably would have been more accurate.
But see Bob C's posts #28 and #32 above - looks like you and I were both half right.
Eccentric Old Guy
Senior Member
Been a few days since I logged in.......thank you all for comments. I took delivery on this '28 truck yesterday, and it sits in the storage space for now.
I checked the engine number (A263xxx) against the MAFCA chart, and it matches production date of July 1928......so, the engine, I presume is original, and cannot be a model B engine.
production date chart from MAFCA here:
http://www.mafca.com/data_eng_production.html
@CHuDWah, I have no idea what that cable was.....it wasn't there when I took delivery.
I've seen photos of other '28 Fords with the brown steering wheel......I'm assuming it's the original steering wheel.....?
The truck is very dusty......but, appears to be a body-off restoration, but older. The frame, suspension, etc appears to have been painted, and reassembled. Who knows how long ago it was restored, or how much it's been driven, but it appears to have set quite a bit.
There is no battery.....been removed. How do you put a new battery in? Do you have to remove the floorboard to access? Can I get a regular 6v battery at NAPA, or is this a special sized battery? (I checked with NAPA, and they stock 6v batteries.......just not sure it's the right one.
All this is assuming it's a 6v system, and hasn't been converted to 12v. I checked on the starter and generator, and didn't see any markings (but it was getting dark). The oogah horn does have a plate and marked for 6v.
Once I get a battery in it, I can try to start and drive it.......then I'll have a good idea of what needs to be done.......
It does have operational brakes.....thankfully!!!!! Tires look aged a bit, but good tread, and no noticeable cracking.The Les Andrews book hasn't arrived yet......
I'll need a source of supplies, and counting on you guys to steer me towards where I can get needed parts for maintenance, the aluminum radiator fan, spark plugs, points (?), etc. (Is there an oil filter?)
Is the oil a non-detergent oil? What weight gear oil for transmission and differential?
odie, the eccentric old guy!
Can you tell if this is a 6v system by it's looks in this photo?
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Chris in WNC
Well-known member
Until you can drop the oil pan and confirm it is clean, use non-detergent. Thereafter you can use detergent. 10W-30 seems to be the current favorite but I have used straight 30W for years. Just buy the cheapest oil you can find- it will be 10X better than 1929 oil was.
Tractor Supply sells it in big containers 4-5-qt.
You need a group 1, 6-volt battery, which is very common. Most retailers have them.
Tractor Supply sells it in big containers 4-5-qt.
You need a group 1, 6-volt battery, which is very common. Most retailers have them.
30 Closed Cab PU
Well-known member
see aboveBeen a few days since I logged in.......thank you all for comments. I took delivery on this '28 truck yesterday, and it sits in the storage space for now.
I checked the engine number (A263xxx) against the MAFCA chart, and it matches production date of July 1928......so, the engine, I presume is original, and cannot be a model B engine.
production date chart from MAFCA here:
http://www.mafca.com/data_eng_production.html
@CHuDWah, I have no idea what that cable was.....it wasn't there when I took delivery.
I've seen photos of other '28 Fords with the brown steering wheel......I'm assuming it's the original steering wheel.....?
The truck is very dusty......but, appears to be a body-off restoration, but older. The frame, suspension, etc appears to have been painted, and reassembled. Who knows how long ago it was restored, or how much it's been driven, but it appears to have set quite a bit.
There is no battery.....been removed. How do you put a new battery in? Do you have to remove the floorboard to access? Can I get a regular 6v battery at NAPA, or is this a special sized battery? (I checked with NAPA, and they stock 6v batteries.......just not sure it's the right one.
Most 6 V batteries will work. I get mine from either Tractor Supply or Farm and Fleet, since they have them available and do not have to be ordered, typically a little cheaper than the auto parts stores. Battery is under the lower floor board, on the drivers side. Remove that floorboard, look for the ground cable that goes directly to the frame. The clamp on that cable for the battery terminal post should be sized for the battery post, if it is sized for a battery post for the positive battery post you have a positive ground electrical system. Couple that with the fact you have a generator instead of an alternator, most likely you have a 6 v positive ground system. Most 6v batteries will fit, if you want to be sure measure the dimensions of the battery opening in the truck and compare to what you want to purchase.
All this is assuming it's a 6v system, and hasn't been converted to 12v. I checked on the starter and generator, and didn't see any markings (but it was getting dark). The oogah horn does have a plate and marked for 6v.
Once I get a battery in it, I can try to start and drive it.......then I'll have a good idea of what needs to be done.......
Since it may have sat for a while, 1st thing is to drain all the old gas - do not want to plug up the carb with old varnishy gas, your sediment bowl gas does not look good (orangish/red). Drain the tank, empty the sediment bowl, and empty the carb float bowl. Make sure the radiator is full, the oil is full, crank it some with the ignition off to prime the oil into the motor, then try to start. If it was me let it get good and warm and change the oil before driving it far. Also do a full lube replacement,. Oil/lube generator, distributor, grease water pump. Full chassis grease job. Sometime soon it may be a good idea to drop the oil pan and inspect for oil sludge - if sludge is found both the bottom end via the oil pan and the valve galley behind the valve access panel should be cleaned out. After sitting for long periods, or if not maintained for a long time grease hardens, and oil can go bad.
The Les Andrews book hasn't arrived yet......
I'll need a source of supplies, and counting on you guys to steer me towards where I can get needed parts for maintenance, the aluminum radiator fan, spark plugs, points (?), etc. (Is there an oil filter?)
Many good sources - Brattons, Snyders, Berts, Mikes, others. Personally I stay away from MACs and Vintique. Other may add their preferences/other suppliers.
Originally the A did not have an oil filter, but there is an oil screen on the oil pump accessed by dropping the oil pan. Some have added an oil filter. From your pictures you do not seem to have a filter. You would see it on the passangers side of the motor if you had one.
Is the oil a non-detergent oil? What weight gear oil for transmission and differential?
Originally it used either 20 W or 30w straight weight non detergent oil. But this was before availability of multi-weight detergent oil. Most now use a multi grade detergent oil. If you ask what is best there are many opinions, the key is to change it every 500 miles - more important than what you use.
Also consider re-torqueing the head soon. After sitting for a long time, gaskets can compress/dry out, if not retorqued can cause the head gasket to go bad.
odie, the eccentric old guy!
Can you tell if this is a 6v system by it's looks in this photo?
Other than maintenance items you look to have a very nice truck - congratulations!
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30 Closed Cab PU
Well-known member
Also rear end and transmission oil is usually called 600W oil, available form the model a vendors. There are also other options others here on the Barn can recommend.
Eccentric Old Guy
Senior Member
Here you go, Bob C............
Is it possible to have a model B head on a model A block????? (the serial number of the block definitely places it at a July 1928 date.......this does seem confusing, for sure.....!
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Eccentric Old Guy
Senior Member
see above
Other than maintenance items you look to have a very nice truck - congratulations!
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Hello 30 CCPU........I can't do any maintenance at the storage place, so it looks like I'll have to get a battery and drive it to my home. About a 2-3 mile trip. Then I can drain the old gas from the tank, and commence with retorque of head, lube job, drop the pan, clean oil screen, change oil....etc......
I can add some fresh gas to the tank.....that might be a good idea, eh?
EOG
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