EOG's 1928 Model A Pickup

Hole is for vacuum wipers, also sometimes used to spray in water mist while motor running to attempt to clean carbon/soot out of the combustion chamber/valves/plugs. Also can spray Marvel Mystery oil or Seafoam in an attempt to free sticky valves. In addition both can be added to gas for sticky valves.


Attach a vacuum gauge there for diagnostics/troubleshooting.
https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=140147&highlight=Vacuum+guage+diagnostics
https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=278006&highlight=Vacuum+chart
 
Charlie Stephens said:
Be sure to bolt the new manifold to the exhaust manifold and have them machined flat as a set. Not doing it may be the reason the last one broke.

Charlie Stephens
Click to expand...

Actually, it broke on the mount to the carburetor. I'd rather avoid any machine shop work, if I can get away without doing that. If there is a gap between the intake and exhaust manifolds, where they bolt together, I'll just use shims between the two. If the opposite is true, I may be able to grind the union down some to lessen the gap. This does not seem like a critical connection......but, I'm all ears on your thoughts. I realize I'm taking a chance on this, but another intake manifold is not too expensive if I screw it up. I don't have lots of $$$ to pay for machining. What are the chances it'll just bolt up and run?????

I realize your suggestion of having machine shop work done is probably the most perfect way to accomplish this but, I do have budget considerations.

Thank you for your thoughts on this.....:D

My neighbor has volunteered to help me tow the '28 truck to my home.....where I have access to my tools. Probably another week, or so.....before I can tow it here.

EOG
 
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Eccentric Old Guy said:
Actually, it broke on the mount to the carburetor. I'd rather avoid any machine shop work, if I can get away without doing that. If there is a gap between the intake and exhaust manifolds, where they bolt together, I'll just use shims between the two. If the opposite is true, I may be able to grind the union down some to lessen the gap. This does not seem like a critical connection......but, I'm all ears on your thoughts. I realize I'm taking a chance on this, but another intake manifold is not too expensive if I screw it up. I don't have lots of $$$ to pay for machining. What are the chances it'll just bolt up and run?????

I realize your suggestion of having machine shop work done is probably the most perfect way to accomplish this but, I do have budget considerations.

Thank you for your thoughts on this.....:

My neighbor has volunteered to help me tow the '28 truck to my home.....where I have access to my tools. Probably another week, or so.....before I can tow it here.

EOG
Click to expand...

It all depends on how big the gaps are.

Charlie Stephens
 
Eccentric Old Guy said:
I realize your suggestion of having machine shop work done is probably the most perfect way to accomplish this but, I do have budget considerations.

Thank you for your thoughts on this.....:D
EOG
Click to expand...

I think you should wait to do that repair until you are able to do it correctly. You don't have to use a machine shop unless the pRTS ARE ON A DIFFERENT PLANE. A FRACTIONAL AMOUNT CAN BE ABSORBED BY THE GASKET (oops cap lock). Just use it as is for now and get to know your machine.
 
I will let others comment on this post as this is based on reading, not actual experience.


Thought I read somewhere that it is permissible to replace one or both manifolds, and not bolt them together. Make sure each are somewhat flat with a fine file, and use the copper clad gaskets, torque bolts to 35 lbs. Most of the time they will be OK. Use the gland rings on the exhaust manifold to prevent # 4 cylinder exhaust manifold sagging issue..


For the carb/Manifold connection, Tillotson carbs have a tendency to warp because they are pot metal, use sand paper taped to a piece of glass to flatten the carb flange (zenith and Tillotson). and on the intake manifold flange surface. Use the thin paper/cardboard style gasket, do not over torque the carb bolts. Not a lot of torque is required since it only has to seal the very low vacuum in the intake manifold.
 
30 Closed Cab PU said:
I will let others comment on this post as this is based on reading, not actual experience.


Thought I read somewhere that it is permissible to replace one or both manifolds, and not bolt them together. Make sure each are somewhat flat with a fine file, and use the copper clad gaskets, torque bolts to 35 lbs. Most of the time they will be OK. Use the gland rings on the exhaust manifold to prevent # 4 cylinder exhaust manifold sagging issue..


For the carb/Manifold connection, Tillotson carbs have a tendency to warp because they are pot metal, use sand paper taped to a piece of glass to flatten the carb flange (zenith and Tillotson). and on the intake manifold flange surface. Use the thin paper/cardboard style gasket, do not over torque the carb bolts. Not a lot of torque is required since it only has to seal the very low vacuum in the intake manifold.
Click to expand...

Thank you, 30CCPU......you have been such a great help to me. :D

It's going to be at least a week before I can get started on this.....later, my friend! :)

EOG
 
J Franklin said:
I think you should wait to do that repair until you are able to do it correctly. You don't have to use a machine shop unless the pRTS ARE ON A DIFFERENT PLANE. A FRACTIONAL AMOUNT CAN BE ABSORBED BY THE GASKET (oops cap lock). Just use it as is for now and get to know your machine.
Click to expand...


That's something to think about as well, JF......thanks for the input. :D

I guess I still have the option of doing a better jury-rig to make a seal of carb to intake manifold for now. If I can get it running that way, the manifold machining can always be done later, I suppose.

EOG
 
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First you bolt the 2 manifolds together and then check that all the faces (6) that contact the block are in the same plane..
 
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