Engine Oil?

My engine was rebuilt a few years ago by AER-Skokie and I use Mobil One 5W-30 and it doesn't lose any between oil changes. I can easily do 60 or 65 with the balanced shaft and touring cam, etc.
 
WoW! A few years ago, I recall some guys actually beating the drum for straight weight, non- detergent oil. The word about newer oils being better oils has gotten out.
Terry
 
Pennzoil 10w30 for years no problems, use a zinc additive in a rebuilt engine for a couple of oil changes
 
Maybe , next time this question comes up, we should ask, Just what oils are bad for a model A? The truth is, none. I can't recall anyone ever saying "Don't run XYZ 12.5 w 32 in your A, I just wiped out my engine on that stuff!" I have heard guys say you can run whatever is on sale at Walmart though. A lot of us run Shell Rotella in our cars. It's a good reliable, moderately priced oil, available in 2 1/2 gal. or 10 Qt jugs at Tractor Supply Corp and it seems to lubricate things well.
Terry
 
There are oils on the market that are not suitable for older vehicles. Those with the API SM designation do not contain vital additives. Avoid.
 
What oil are you using in your Model A?

Rotella 15W40. Proven oil at a reasonable price that is readily available. The added zinc may or may not be of value but it doesn't cost extra and it sure won't hurt.

Even though it was recommended in the owner manual, I would be reluctant to use ND oil due to its tendency to build up in the crankcase.
 
Sorry. It's your choice after all. Let's put it this way.
I will not be using SM oil in my Model A engine because it does not contain a vital additive and will cause harm. I am going to continue to use SL as my researches have shown to be more suitable.
You are free to do as you choose. Hopefully others will check before following either recommendation.
This might be a starting place;
 

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I don't use Shell motor oil, no particular reason just never did. I have used Phillips 66, Mobil, and Ford Motorcraft over the years all with excellent results in all my Fords.

But, I was just over at a buddies house Saturday afternoon and he had just brought home his original 'A' engine from a professional re-builder, kept it babbitt did have adjustable lifters, SS valves, and hardened valve seats installed otherwise bone stock, and this rebuilder (he was out of Cedar Rapids, Iowa) told my friend to run Shell Rotella 15W-40.

He recommends this oil for all the antique engines he does (Model T-A-V/8) and said the ZDDP wasn't a big factor for these engines but it gives peace of mind, and that the trucking industry is and has been lobbying hard to keep the ZDDP in this oil.

I always wondered how Shell could keep the ZDDP in the oil when everybody else had to ditch it:cool:
 
Absolutely not! The SM lacks the zinc additive vital for older engines. Do some research, SM is NOT suitable!

Chippy, you can run the SM oil if you want the ZDDP, buy a bottle from the antique car vendors for around 5 bucks I think it is, and you'll be fine. One bottle to an oil change around 4 oz. if I recall.

I have to run it in our '69 Mach 1 as it needs the stuff plus it's a high compression engine. Some guys in the Camaro-Mustang world are going to roller lifters then the need for the ZDDP goes away anyway.
 
Shell Rotella 15 W40 and I toss it first of the season, mid summer, and just before winter... -yes that's way more than 500/mile per change but I figure no filter, oil is cheap so why not..
 
Chippy, you can run the SM oil if you want the ZDDP, buy a bottle from the antique car vendors for around 5 bucks I think it is, and you'll be fine. One bottle to an oil change around 4 oz. if I recall.

I have to run it in our '69 Mach 1 as it needs the stuff plus it's a high compression engine. Some guys in the Camaro-Mustang world are going to roller lifters then the need for the ZDDP goes away anyway.

Maybe but there is no need. The 15-40 API SL oil that I used is readily available and cheaper than the SM by the same manufacturer.
 
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