Engine Oil?

Here we go....:rolleyes:

I use 10-40 or 20-50 Kendall or Lucas "Hot Rod & Classic car" Oil.

These both contain lots of zinc and are formulated for these old engines.

I would NOT use any of the modern, very thin synthetic oils.

Please understand, THIS IS JUST MY OPINION.

I am sure others will have different thoughts.

This works for me.

Other oils may work for others.

Chris W.
 
Hi 1929,

Many good suggestions under "Search" from which to choose.

Good question asked often; however, lots depends on:

a. If the inside of your engine has not been cleaned in some time, which oil is in your engine as we speak, detergent or non-detergent?

b. If your engine was recently dismantled & thoroughly cleaned, are you asking which oil to use in a thoroughly clean engine?

c. Local temperature, winter or summer?

d. Doesn't matter much what oil others are presently using with their varying specific climate and varying engine conditions ........ just try presenting a few more overall details which will help many to make proper recommendations for "your" particular engine.
 
Last edited:
The oil engineers that have spoke on the subject of what oil we should have in our early cars were clear.

Detergent oil with additives.

Contrary to popular belief the detergent does not pull all the sludge into the oil. It may help clean up a worn engine and suddenly start noises.

The additives are critical in protecting you engine. The water that gets into the engine from condensation from sitting and not being warmed up to cook out will convert some chemicals into acids.

Also you do NOT need to change the oil every 500 miles. That was for the poor quality oil of 1930. You need to consider the type of driving, but cars run on the road are good for a couple of years and or a couple of thousand miles. No need to waste money or the environment. Plus really have you ever heard of an engine full of oil ever failing becuase the oil was old? You are highly unlikely to ever put enough miles on your car to make a difference.
 
H. L. Chauvin said:
Hi 1929,

Many good suggestions under "Search" from which to choose.

Good question asked often; however, lots depends on:

a. If the inside of your engine has not been cleaned in some time, which oil is in your engine as we speak, detergent or non-detergent?

b. If your engine was recently dismantled & thoroughly cleaned, are you asking which oil to use in a thoroughly clean engine?

c. Local temperature, winter or summer?

d. Doesn't matter much what oil others are presently using with their varying specific climate and varying engine conditions ........ just try presenting a few more overall details which will help many to make proper recommendations for "your" particular engine.
Click to expand...
I tried to Search it here but was having problems. I have been using Rotella 10w 40, I saw a seminar yesterday on youtube by Antique Engine Rebuilder in Skokie, he says for a rebuilt motor use 5w 30.
 
I switched to 15W-40... I usually buy the cheapest brand I can find.

Ken
 
Last edited:
I think you are fine with the Rotella 10-40. That is what I use year around here in Pa. I have seen that video and was surprised that he suggested such a light oil. I'm sure he knows what he is talking about though. You may want to go with a lighter oil in the winter. I see you live in NY and I'm sure it is cold up there right now. Either way I'm sure you will be fine.
 
wmws said:
I think you are fine with the Rotella 10-40. That is what I use year around here in Pa. I have seen that video and was surprised that he suggested such a light oil. I'm sure he knows what he is talking about though. You may want to go with a lighter oil in the winter. I see you live in NY and I'm sure it is cold up there right now. Either way I'm sure you will be fine.
Click to expand...

Go to Youtube, and type in Model A engine rebuilder seminar, its the first video of Rich Falluca, overall, its a good seminar.
 
No I don't think SN is synthetic. That is a grade classification. He also said that Zink is NOT necessary for our Model A since it has a steel cam.
 
1929 said:
I tried to Search it here but was having problems. I have been using Rotella 10w 40, I saw a seminar yesterday on youtube by Antique Engine Rebuilder in Skokie, he says for a rebuilt motor use 5w 30.
Click to expand...



Personally with a completely freshly rebuilt motor, I run a lighter weight oil for the first 50-75 hours for a "break in" period. The lighter oil helps everything seat faster (or so I was taught). But after that I run DMO 15-40 in all my old iron. There are more gents on here with a lot more experience than I with rebuilding A motors, but this is what I've done with several tractor engine rebuilds and they're still running strong after plus 20 years.


Saving iron from the scrap pile one piece at a time
 
Last edited:
You have old posts and threads about schwalms, insert bearings, and oil. You mentioned that schwalms recommended 15W40 for your motor and you were happy... what has changed since then?? As with any oil thread your going to get different reccomendations so why not just continuing with got your motor this far. The AER website reccommends 5W30. Schwalms as u mentioned 15W40. I dont get what info your looking for..
If your just trying to get a survey going there was one done a while ago by Bob Johnson which should be in the archives

http://fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=186827&page=2

http://fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=170116
 
Last edited:
1929 said:
I tried to Search it here but was having problems. I have been using Rotella 10w 40, I saw a seminar yesterday on youtube by Antique Engine Rebuilder in Skokie, he says for a rebuilt motor use 5w 30.
Click to expand...

You switched from 15W40 to 10W40???
 
Multi Grade oils are THINNER, when cold & THICKER when hot, therefore giving a more CONSTANT VISCOSITY. That's a GOOD THING!!!
Bill Slick
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top