Engine noise

I use a cheap harbor freight stethoscope which has the.metal end removed and a heater hose taped to the end. This really helps isolate the noise well. I had a knocking cam from a weak plunger spring and I couldn't isolate it until I modified the stethoscope, then it was easy.
 
One of my model a engine professional says it probably has wrong clearance piston to cyl, he says run it. That is what I am going to do.
DAVE
 
I am sorry to say I can almost guarantee the piston to wall clearance is too tight which is why I asked the questions I did. There has been a lot posted about this as of late. That number needs to be between .0035 and .004

You cannot set this clearance to modern specs and succeed.

You are headed for scored pistons and walls, if not already, and very possibly a shrunk piston(s) as a result, which is prolly what you are hearing now. Your engine life I am afraid will be shortened unless this is fixed. And you will have way more metal grit getting into the bearings, shortening their life as well.

I have posted extensively on this because I have fixed several ppls cars who had the misfortune of paying someone to do it wrong. I have posted extensive info on how to fix it. I have been very verbose in order to try to keep ppl out of trouble and reduce expense and aggravation

See if any of your model a engine professionals would be willing to put a good quality bore scope down each cyl. and check for scoring on the cyl walls. If you find it, do NOT run that motor. If you see scoring on the cyl walls it will be much worse on the pistons, which obv. cannot be seen while still in the engine.
 
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I called a model a engine rebuilder that did my main bearings he said piston to cyl clearance is the problem, noise does sound like piston slap but why it goes away with 1 and 4 cylinder shorted together does not make sense to me.I think I can check piston cly by dropping the pan with a feeler gauge.
 
It is very hard to accurately localize slap by shorting. I have tried many times and always get conflicting info. I do not know why, you would expect that methodology to work better!
The bottom of the cyl. is not the area of the cyl where the ignition action is and runs colder than the top of the cyl. You may not get an accurate reading by doing it on the bottom; I myself would not do it there. See what you think about my bore scope idea before you unbolt anything.

See my thread today on pix of a scored piston
 
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david b allen said:
One of my model a engine professional says it probably has wrong clearance piston to cyl, he says run it. That is what I am going to do.
DAVE
Click to expand...

Hey david,
Let us know how things work out , after running this engine situation for awhile :) ! I have had and seen situations like you describe with your engine. I'm posting a picture of a 'home made' device that works for isolating / diagnosing engine problems. Pair of shooter muffs , some surgical tubing ,etc..works great, as the muffs keep out extraneous stuff, so you can consentrate. Good luck.
 

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Sunday I had two of my mechanic friends over to listen to my noise.
They both agreed it is subtle and goes away above idle I am going to run it and enjoy my 29 warmed up coupe.
 
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