Engine noise

Use a motor stethoscope, or, the poor boys' way, a short dowel or a long screwdriver. Put one end on the engine and one end up to your ear, at various places on the engine.

If it is a really new engine, give it about 200 miles to settle in, then see if the noise doesn't subside. If it's still noisy, contact your rebuilder before your tear it apart, or you may void any warranty.
 
Depending on the noise you can short out each plug one at a time. Does it increase with RPM increase? I think a bit more info is needed before we can give a good suggestion. Maybe a youtube video?

Mike
 
The motor has new everything Snyder pistons Brattons tin base rods new main babbitt timing gear timing gear plunger spring, valves, valve guides, spring, flywheel lighten and clutch balanced. I am running a B distributor set at 10 degrees it had less noise with A distributor at 0 degrees. The noise does go away with rpm
 
Do you have a 'B' timing cover on it? I have heard that if you change dist. then you need to change timing covers.

Mike
 
I disconnected the fan belt that got rid of belt noise, next I shorted one plug at a time stayed the same which I previously had done, than I shorted 2 and 3 stayed the same next I shorted 1 and 4 the noise went away. It seems like I have a issue in cylinder 1 and 4. What should be my next step? May be I should PRAY AND SEE WHAT GOD does!!
DAVE
 
Make sure the spring is in the little thrust plunger in front of the camshaft, otherwise the cam can float back and forth and cause this noise.
 
I rebuilt the motor and had professionals do the boring and main bearing work.
I am quite sure the cam plunger spring is in but where would that noise on the engine be most prominent?
DAVE
 
Check the front motor mount and pulley clearance. If it is cinched down too tightly, the pulley could knock.
 
A thud sound that cannot be isolated is not a good sign. Does it change when you vary the spark advance? I have had center mains act that way shortly after a rebuild. Going quiet when both 1 & 4 are shorted is puzzling. Put your stethescope, screwdriver, whatever on the center main bolt under the water inlet on the drivers side and test again, but that may not tell you much because block sounds go everywhere. Center main can be reset from the bottom.
 
Hmmm.
1. was the sound there right from the very start?
2. Was the builder's break-in procedure followed (did you get such a procedure)
3. What piston-to-cyl wall clearance was used?? This is VERY important to know this.
4. i suspect the noise is there at higher revs just drowned out
5. Dizzy shaft too tight? if so even with good plunger spring the cam will jackhammer back and forth; James Rogers has written a lot about this

Despite the method of shorting out plugs, it can still be hard to get an exact localization of a periodic sound problem.....

(he said it has a new plunger spring)
 
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