Engine ID

I would guess that removing the transmission will be one of the easiest parts of taking it apart. !! Removing heads, pistons, valves, head studs, etc can all be a real pain in the a**.
 
A few hours later heads and most head bold removed! No obvious breaks on the deck surfaces. Where do I look for cracks? The gunk in the oil valley appears much worse than it is. Wipes off easily with a scraper. Should the oil pan and lower motor be removed next?? Thanks Mart for the guidance on the trans. I'll tackle that this weekend. Are these any benefit. Low res, 51k can I go larger?
 

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Some cracks can be seen with the eye, but really need to tank it to clean it, mag it and pressure test it.
 
Looks like it has the raised (lowered) area around the intake in the photos #2 & #3. That will date it!
 
Was really surprised about the studs. The remaining 2 at the center water jackets seem to be rather cantankerous?? A little patience and I'm sure they'll finally let go!! Thanks again for all they help fellas!
 
The most common cracks (thankfully normally regarded as harmless) run between the stud hole located between the end and adjacent cylinder and the water hole closest to it. Also between the uppermost of the cluster of 3 studs and the water hole above that. Other cracks between studs and water holes may be present, and although undesirable are normally harmless.

More serious are any cracks between ports and the cylinder at the top end and when you take the pan off you need to check all round the pan rail, both inside, outside and on the pan surface. Cracks here can be present due to freezing. these cracks can range from small and fixable to bad enough to render the block scrap.

Mart.
 
Thanks Coupe! If this is a good block I think I'll end up doing like Mart suggested and make it a 239. More questions to follow!!!
 
Ok few more silly questions! Rod nuts are below the edge of the block. How do I get to them?? Do I try to salvage rods and pistons? Realize I need to protect the cylinder walls. Rookie questions, but I'm learning!
 
You have to rotate the crank to get the rods into position to remove the rod nuts. Need to work on loosing up the pistons and the valves. I would start by removing the valves, removing the rods and pistons that you can, then start soaking the remaining pistons and start working them loose. A lot of this depends on what you are wanting to save. If the valves not savable, I would cut them and get them out of there and the valve springs should not be reused anyway. You might want to try and save the rods, most likely the pistons are worthless. There have been several treads on here recently on ways to remove frozen pistons and freeing up engine parts.
 
You might be able to just about get an offset ring spanner onto the hard to get at nuts. If you can turn it a bit you might be able to just about wiggle another spanner on there and move it a bit further, enough to get the first one on and so on. Like said above, remove any that will come out. try and free up any others that are stuck. Take the cam gear off so you are not trying to turn the cam and valves.

* I'm a Brit. Spanner = wrench!

Mart.
 
Thanks again!! Out to the shop shortly to pry some more. Gotta be a dad this weekend and working Sunday, so prob won't get much done for a few days!!
 
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