I apologize for the redundant ""what is it?"" post!! I am considering rebuilding this motor for a 35 coupe. Was told it is a 46 out of a truck possibly. Suggestions on a solid street motor? Read a lot from afar and always learn something. Would like a road worthy 90 miles from home car. Plan for hydraulic conversion and maybe eventually an overdrive. Thanks is advance!! Doug
Engine ID
- Thread starter 51Hardtop
- Start date
Waterpumps are 37-48 for bell housing blocks , 49 Merc --late block -pumps have extended sheaves.
Pre-war timing cover.
Gene Tulsa
Last edited:
They ain't Merc pumps (8CM) no top middle water hole bit. Though the mounts do look Merc ish. And they ain't normally 59A and earlier pumps, that mount pad is to wide.
Looks like pencil shelf, so most likely pre or during war. Same with timing cover.
Need better pics, as above, pan rail bumps n stuff will nail it down.
you won't no if it's any good till it's in bits.
Martin.
Looks like pencil shelf, so most likely pre or during war. Same with timing cover.
Need better pics, as above, pan rail bumps n stuff will nail it down.
you won't no if it's any good till it's in bits.
Martin.
Mike in AZ
Well-known member
here's a link to MacVP's website....might help you figure out what you have....goodl luck....Mike
http://www.vanpeltsales.com/FH_web/flathead_specifications.htm
http://www.vanpeltsales.com/FH_web/flathead_specifications.htm
JSeery
Member Emeritus
Still not the rear of the block! Top of the bellhousing. Bolt on parts don't tell you much as any part can be bolted on almost any engine. Things like heads, intake, front cover, water pumps just don't mean much, it's the block that IDs the year.
38 coupe
Well-known member
This thread will allow you to ID your engine block: http://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=25301&showall=1
Please be aware that bolt on items got switched around a lot and should not be used to ID an engine.
Please be aware that bolt on items got switched around a lot and should not be used to ID an engine.
Judging by the transmission, it has been fitted to a 1940 and up car.
Judging by the crank pulley a 40 or 41(can't remember where the fan was bolted on a 41, so may not have been in a 41)
Judging by the block rear, it's pre or during war.
judging by the block front it's pre or during war.
Bumps or not in the pan rail would narrow it down, but it's essentially a late 38-45 block. Won't know if it's 221 or 239 until you tug a head.
Those water pumps do appear to have a wider than normal mounting pad, odd, don't know what they be off.
I think a 239 would be a better engine just cue it has more torque than a 221. But a good 221 is preferable to a cracked 239. If it's a 221 it should go + 0.125" to make it a 239. In fact it could be a tin sleeve block, so pop the sleves out and bore another 0.080 ish and you got your 239.
Martin.
Judging by the crank pulley a 40 or 41(can't remember where the fan was bolted on a 41, so may not have been in a 41)
Judging by the block rear, it's pre or during war.
judging by the block front it's pre or during war.
Bumps or not in the pan rail would narrow it down, but it's essentially a late 38-45 block. Won't know if it's 221 or 239 until you tug a head.
Those water pumps do appear to have a wider than normal mounting pad, odd, don't know what they be off.
I think a 239 would be a better engine just cue it has more torque than a 221. But a good 221 is preferable to a cracked 239. If it's a 221 it should go + 0.125" to make it a 239. In fact it could be a tin sleeve block, so pop the sleves out and bore another 0.080 ish and you got your 239.
Martin.
alchemy
Well-known member
I'd say it was a '40 engine and trans, if I wasn't laying sideways.
Look at the union between the engine and trans. Do they look like they have ever been apart? If not, it'sa good bet they are married from the factory. Find the serial number on the pad at the top of the transmission and research it's production date on Mac VanPelt's site.
Look at the union between the engine and trans. Do they look like they have ever been apart? If not, it'sa good bet they are married from the factory. Find the serial number on the pad at the top of the transmission and research it's production date on Mac VanPelt's site.
Mart
Well-known member
I once had to separate an engine and gearbox in less than ideal conditions. The gearbox was unbolted but the input shaft was tight in the clutch centre. I removed the inspection plate and while pulling the gearbox back, tapped the clutch centre with a blunt chisel and hammer. The pulling and knocking got the shaft moving in the clutch splines and it came off.
Mart.
Mart.