Electric draw with key off

[daveymc29]

So in tracing this down I have found that if I remove the fuse on top of my starter and jump across the fuse holder with a test light the light will come dimly on with the fuse removed and key and all switches in their off position. But... it will go out before the count of four. However it doesn't take long, perhaps another count to four and if I put the probes back across the fuse holder it will light slightly again for a count of three. While doing this there is no reaction from the ammeter. It is the same when I remove the leads to my 6V positive ground alternator. if it is in the cards I will drop the bail on the light switch tomorrow and see if that has any effect. How can there be a current there that bleeds off when I put a test light on it then returns rather quickly as the light is removed? I have been around the car in total darkness and there is no light that is on.

 

[SeaSlugs]

so with the alternator disconnected its doing the same thing with the test light on the fuse clips?

sounds like something is charging and and peaking. is everything else on this car bone stock and wired correcty?

what type of ign switch are you using?

 

[Dave Mellor NJ]

In that total darkness, pull the fuse and touch it lightly to the clips looking for a spark.

 

[Tom Wesenberg]

Do you have a radio, turn signals, a voltage invertor, or any electronic device with a memory?

I'd have guessed the alternator, but you said with the wires disconnected from it nothing changed.

 

[Mike V. Florida]

Open the points with a piece of paper and see what happens.

 

[C26Pinelake]

The alternative was the obvious answer ??? Wayne

 

[daveymc29]

I have only an 12V inverter and turn signals, 6V alternator and the fuse holder and circuit breaker that are not stock. I am running a pop-out ignition with modern points in the distributor. The battery is an Optima, When it went dead a while back it took over 24 hrs to charge it, but it seems to recharge real quickly on the car with a short drive. Everything seems to function perfectly if I pul the circuit breaker after I shut down. Dave in the darkness I will see a spark as I insert or remove the circuit breaker. But, if I immediately reinsurt it, no spark. It takes a second or two to build back up,

 

[Kurt in NJ]

Is the inverter connected with a switch, or "on" all the time

 

[Mitch//pa]

I have only an 12V inverter and turn signals, 6V alternator and the fuse holder and circuit breaker that are not stock. I am running a pop-out ignition with modern points in the distributor. The battery is an Optima, When it went dead a while back it took over 24 hrs to charge it, but it seems to recharge real quickly on the car with a short drive. Everything seems to function perfectly if I pul the circuit breaker after I shut down. Dave in the darkness I will see a spark as I insert or remove the circuit breaker. But, if I immediately reinsurt it, no spark. It takes a second or two to build back up,

... Did you disconnect the inverter and then signals and retest..

 

[captndan]

My turn signal indicator light stays on all the time unless I pull the fuse. Didn't use to do that.

 

[mshmodela]

 

[steven a]

When the diode goes bad they can have a slight draw and still charge ok. Try leaving the alt. disconnected

 

[steven a]

And throw that pop out switch away . They all fail sometime , but you never know when

 

[Mitch//pa]

When the diode goes bad they can have a slight draw and still charge ok. Try leaving the alt. disconnected

He did read post #1 again

 

[daveymc29]

mshmodela, Thanks for the color diagram. I copied that a while back and have been using it to determine the source of my problem. I have disconnected each wire from everything but the junction bow, ammeter and the pop-out switch, (Which I'm told to get rid of.)After each disconnect I retested and the result is always the same. Slight draw that dies out but returns when I remove the test light. I had a later ignition switch a while back and found that I had to tweak it a lot to get it to not hit the gas tank when I put the dash back together and after a few months the wire connection on on side broke off from vibration, or something, so I put the pop-out back in. I get a better spark with the pop-out for some reason. Besides, I like it, so it will stay and if necessary I'll put a switch to kill all electricity to the car in the negative battery cable. Probably a good move anyway. Thanks for your help, I have done almost everything you guys suggested, except chucking the pop-out. I did test it before installation when the later model ignition with broke and it showed no draw when off, not shorted then, may be now but the car runs real well. Again thanks.

 

[700rpm]

And throw that pop out switch away . They all fail sometime , but you never know when

Bad advice. Never throw any original parts away, especially popouts.

 

[Bob C]

And throw that pop out switch away . They all fail sometime , but you never know when

Why would you say this??

Bob

 

[willobs]

Horn draw?

 

[daveymc29]

Not the horn, coil, inverter, turn signals, lights (Head tail and stop.) nor the alternator. Not pulling the dash today, maybe tomorrow or next week.

 

[Tom Wesenberg]

I'd say it's the inverter, unless you have a switch to remove power to it. I didn't read where you disconnected the inverter and checked for draw. I hope you are using an analog meter, and with an unknow amp draw or voltage reading, always start the meter on the highest setting and work you way down. Depending on the size of your inverter, you could have from milliamps to an amp or more draw, even with no load on it.