Electric draw with key off

captndan said:
My turn signal indicator light stays on all the time unless I pull the fuse. Didn't use to do that.
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This is one good reason to keep the turn signals on there own harness, separate from the original factory harness. It will be easier to trace out the wiring for one thing.
 
Tom, I disconnected both wires to the inverter. Test was the sam dim test light that then went out, but only while its connected. break the connection, light goes out, then remake connection and light comes back on for a jiffy. I believe that I have had at least one end of every wire on the car removed and the test is the same. Remember the old wives tale of setting a battery on concrete and you won't be able to charge it? Maybe my battery is leaking to ground?
 
Tom, I disconnected both wires to the inverter. Test was the sam dim test light that then went out, but only while its connected. break the connection, light goes out, then remake connection and light comes back on for a jiffy. I believe that I have had at least one end of every wire on the car removed and the test is the same. Remember the old wives tale of setting a battery on concrete and you won't be able to charge it? Maybe my battery is leaking to ground?
 
If it's a Popout, with the key in the ignition, Wiggle the key and watch the ammeter needle. If it moves, it's the switch. When I say "wiggle" I meant from side to side, not turning. I have the same thing in one of my cars.
Terry
 
daveymc29 said:
How can there be a current there that bleeds off when I put a test light on it then returns rather quickly as the light is removed?
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A capacitor charging and discharging when you have the light attached will do this. Thus the posts about the point forced open (condenser) and the inverter.
 
Is your condenser mounted in the distributor, or is it mounted on the coil?

If it's on the coil, then it is always subjected to battery power and could give your test light indication.
The ignition will work with the condenser mounted on the coil, but if it has a leak or short it can drain the battery. Remember, the coil is always at battery voltage.
The same applies if you have any kink of radio suppression filter always connected to the power line.

You'll just have to keep disconnecting wires until the test light doesn't flash then go out.
 
I have a static suppressor on the alternator, but as posted, the light dies its thing with all the wires off the alternator disconnected. Football today. draw tomorrow?
 
daveymc29 said:
I have a static suppressor on the alternator, but as posted, the light dies its thing with all the wires off the alternator disconnected. Football today. draw tomorrow?
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How can you enjoy the game knowing that your baby is sick in the garage. You're heartless!! :D:p
 
Found out another thing that I didn't know. The test light/circuit tester I bought probably has a capacitor built into it and that would explain why the light goes out when I touch the terminals across the fuse holder. The draw is still there and that is another problem. a light bulb socket with two wires on it would stay hot when placed across the fuse, So I still need to find the draw, may be the starter switch, who knows?
 
I've never seen a capacitor in a test light.
H/F sells a lot of junk, but they do have a good test light for about $4 or $5.
 
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