Dual Res Master Cylinder

Here's what I used an adapter from Chassis Engineering and a 68 Ford Torino cylinder Dorman M39495 . Zeke
 

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I made the conversion to a dual M/C using a '69 Mustang unit 1" bore. Brake performance improved greatly with the existing setup. That was '46-'47 fronts and '40 rears. I still was not satified with the pedal travel. The pedal firmed up about 1" off the floor. I ended up using a Chevy/GMC C20 M/C 1.125" Bore. That is the same bore as the original. The pedal is back up where it should be, about 1.5" from the top. I ended up installing a disc kit from Speedway. I am now satisfied with the stopping performance.
 
"Here's what I used an adapter from Chassis Engineering and a 65 Ford Torino cylinder . Zeke"

I think you mean '68 Torino, as there were no Torinos or Ford dual masters in '65.


"Something else that you might want to consider are using banjo fittings off of the master cylinder"

Banjos will work on masters as long as the port areas are or have been spot-faced for the copper washers.
 
Sorry about that, '69 Chevy/GMC C20. I used a Cardone 10-1331. Yea, it's a rebuilt but it works. Be sure you follow the bench bleed procedure. I used a home built pressure bleeder to purge the system after I installed the M/C. I am using DOT3 fluid because of the rear original brakes.
 
What dual master cylinder can I use that is close in bore size to the original flathead single res?


I used a Mustang Boss 302 MC in my '40 coupe. It needs an adapter to bolt it to the frame, as they all do. You can get either 15/16" or 1" bore, drum/drum or disc/drum. You will need to extend the push rod the same amount as the adapter thickness. Also, the Ford MC cover does not fit under the floor pan. I modified mine by slicing off a section and welding it back together. Has been working great for about 15 years.
 
I made the conversion to a dual M/C using a '69 Mustang unit 1" bore. Brake performance improved greatly with the existing setup. That was '46-'47 fronts and '40 rears. I still was not satified with the pedal travel. The pedal firmed up about 1" off the floor. I ended up using a Chevy/GMC C20 M/C 1.125" Bore. That is the same bore as the original. The pedal is back up where it should be, about 1.5" from the top. I ended up installing a disc kit from Speedway. I am now satisfied with the stopping performance.

Just to be clear, the original MC bore was/is 1.0625 or 1-1/16" The
larger the MC bore, the more pedal effort is required, but less piston
travel, and vice-versa, all other things being equal.
 
Richard,

Absolutely clear and correct. It's interesting the M/C ,supposedly stock, that I took out measured 1 1/8" (1.125"). It must have been from some other application. I just used that size as a target since the pedal position and the effort is good.
 
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