distributor lower shaft

Neshkoro

Neshkoro

Senior Member
I pulled the head on my Model A to install a new head gasket.. My. distributor has a 2 piece shaft. I thought the top surface of the lower shaft was about even with the top surface of the block but now that Im reassembling things it seems the lower shaft is about a half inch above the block surface. Am i wrong? I can't seem to remember how it was when i pulled the head. Can you tell me if the shaft should be flush with the block head surface or higher than that?
Thanks.
 
No Lower in the block with a two piece shaft you can remove lower shaft also with needle nose pliers.
 
It seems maybe you didn’t understand the question or I didn’t ask it correctly. I want know if the lower shaft sits flat with the surface of the block of stickers up higher than the block surface.
 
You have to line the shaft up and have it seat into the drive in the bottom. The shaft end slots are off center and must be positioned correctly.

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I memory serves me, I believe shaft stands proud of the block. The shaft goes thru a hole in the head gasket and the coupling is above the head gasket, otherwise you would not be able to remove the distributor without removing the head and head gasket.
 
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I haven’t put the head back yet but I put the shaft in and the top of the shaft is about 1/2” higher than the block surface. It won’t go in any farther.
 
Kind of trivia isin't it? If it all hooks up and works, it doesn't matter. You can always set the head on the block, without using the nuts, and see if it works.
 
Dr Foot, that was the plan if I couldn't get an answer here. And, you're right, if it works, what's the difference?
Thanks!
 
I’m with YB. I think the lower shaft sits proud of (above) the block but shy of (below) the top of the installed head. Important thing is that the lower slot on lower shaft has to engage the tang on the top of the oil pump drive gear so that the camshaft can turn it.
 
If there are any signs of corrosion then it may be time to look at the drive down in the valve chamber. It just depends on how crusty the top of the gear drive is. It has a socket with straight tip blade just like the upper connection of the distributor drive intermediate shaft assembly. The socket can get fouled up with corrosion or gunk and may need cleaning.
This link shows the drive assembly: https://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/product.htm?pid=978814&cat=41694
This is just the shaft: https://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/product.htm?pid=978817&cat=41694
 
Your doing good, the shaft will be above the surface of th block. The Ford engineers made assembling the shaft fool proof. The offset slots on the shaft can only align with the matching offset tangs or tabs on the connecting pieces one way. If the slots and tabs were were all centered then the assembly could end up being 180 degrees out of alignment.
 
The slots & blades are offset for convenience mostly. The cam is the only thing that is moved to get the rotor in the correct place for firing and the breaker opening timing. The slots allow it to go back in the same place without affecting the distributor timing if the distributor is removed for one reason or another.

Depending on what part of the world a person lives in, the distributor shafting is at the mercy of condensation after an engine cools down. I coat the shafting with LPS 2 or 3 before I put them in. It helps control the corrosion anyway.
 
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