Distributor cable

cars56

Senior Member
Hi all, Distributor cable won't tap into the new distributor, suggestions?
Is it always a project to get it in there?
Thanks!
 
Hi all, Distributor cable won't tap into the new distributor, suggestions?
Is it always a project to get it in there?
Thanks!

Not really enough info to go on (--at least for me). Can you post a picture? What I am having trouble with is knowing whether this is actually a "new" distributer body that was incorrectly threaded, or whether your "cable" is something different than OEM Electro-lock cable that has the wrong threads. A pipe tap should clean up the threads in the distributer but I would like to see a little more before shouting out possibilities.
 
Hi all, Distributor cable won't tap into the new distributor, suggestions?
Is it always a project to get it in there?
Thanks!

Hey cars,
Yeah..it is always a 'project' ...for me:)! But, then I have several 'excuses' ! Therefore, I pull the dist out of the block and do my threading that way. Also, that way, you can match up the fine threads, IMO, more better. You could also accomplish 'my' way by having the ignition key end loose( as well as the cable clamp)..but tooo much hassle for me. Tip: make sure not to screw the cable end ...too far into dist. Good luck.
 
Why should you not screw the cable fully into the distributor? I screwed mine in as far as it will go using a vice-grip spanner. I did it about 100 miles ago and have had no problem yet. Should I expect something to go wrong?
 
Why should you not screw the cable fully into the distributor? I screwed mine in as far as it will go using a vice-grip spanner. I did it about 100 miles ago and have had no problem yet. Should I expect something to go wrong?

The center of the cable pushes against a plate in the distributor. It can be pushed so far as to push it against the body and cause a short.
 
The center of the cable pushes against a plate in the distributor. It can be pushed so far as to push it against the body and cause a short.

The repro lower plate is much thinner than an original, thus the warning to not screw it in too far. I find about three turns works fine.:)

Even if the original plate doesn't move, pushing the brass plunger back too far can sometimes make an old wire inside short to ground. That's why when I test the armored cable for grounds, I push the brass button in and out a couple times.
 
Some repro bottom plates have the dimple off center. The dimple accepts the spring-loaded wire feed from the ignition. If the dimple is off center, it can make the screw-in difficult and can cause a short.
 
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