distributor advance problem

If you have removed the distributor since you had it running perhaps you put it back in at 180deg out.
To ensure number 1 is on the compression stroke. Remove number 1 spark plug and turn the engine with a finger in the spark plug hole until you feel or hear the compression. Now line up the pulley timing marks. And then line up the rotor with number 1 on the distributor, either by changing out the wires in the cap or by lifting the distributor body up an inch or so an rotating the body until the rotor aligns with number 1 on the cap, or the mark you put on the body from the earlier post.
 
Last edited:
Yes, I have, distributor position piston one.
Engine won't start, carburettor pops.
Only works on piston six...

Has something changed? In your initial post, you said : "Start ok, running ok, not hot, everything ok...". Now it's not. What happened?
 
Has something changed? In your initial post, you said : "Start ok, running ok, not hot, everything ok...". Now it's not. What happened?

The engine works fine, now check that the distributor works with a time one piston with six.
It should work with a time one piston with one....
 
Hi. I understand that English is not your first language, but I don't understand why you think you have a problem.
Your distributor only makes 4 sparks for every 1 revolution. You can connect your timing light to 1 or 6 spark plug and the timing marks will still line up. I don't think your engine has a problem. I just think you don't understand exactly how it works.
Please explain why you think you have a problem and someone will steer you in the right direction.
 
The initial problem reported is that the O/P said his distributor was advancing the wrong way. If he is reporting this correctly, the only thing that would cause this is the inadvertent conversion of a reverse rotation SBC mallory distributor from a reverse-rotation marine application. (There are such things.) On a distributor the turns CW, the advance works by moving CCW; on a CCW distributor it works by moving CW. This is controlled by the design of the breaker point plate and weights. I have always been a believer in "when you hear hoofbeats, think horses, not zebras". I think we should really determine the actual problem before offering solutions.

I am not a fan of Pertronix and do no use them, but I doubt they could cause this kind of problem.
 
sorry, i'm spanish, my english is helped by translator....

i checked tdc is correct.

i adjusted spark piston one is correct.

real problem is distributor, advance not working.

then put photos model

distributor working clockwise and advance working clockwise.

i will play with other springs.

Thank you for your patience
 
So... let me see if I understand.
Just using a standard timing light. Connected to number 1 spark plug lead. You have lined up the timing marks at idle, 800RPM or so. As your engine speed gets higher say 2500 RPM. Has the mark on the crankshaft pulley moved clockwise or counterclockwise or still the same?
 
Last edited:
Ok. It looks like you're first post was correct!!
It looks like you are going to have to remove that distributor. No amount of adjustment will fix it.
Tubman was correct.
Before you remove it:
Take off the distributor cap.
Rotate the engine until the rotor is pointing to the number 1 spark plug terminal in the cap AND the timing marks are lined up. Exactly mark on the body of the distributor the position of the rotor. And take a picture.
This will make it easier when it comes to fitting a correct distributor.
I don't know what the best solution is. Perhaps start a new thread on here asking what is best.
You will need to say what carburetor you are using and how many.
 
I have isolated and blew up the pictures as much as I could, but still cannot read the part numbers. I believe a GOOGLE search of them might lead to a clue. Can you perhaps post them on this thread?
 
Are you 6 volt or 12 volt?
I'm using a MSD 8573 I'm 12 volt. It is a bolt in.
Also if 12 volt, check out Progression Ignition. Fully programmable from your phone. They have Small Block Chev. for under $600 US. You will still need to get it modified for your 8BA. Make sure you get the small diameter model.
 
Last edited:
Summit says it is not marine, which casts doubt on my original diagnosis.

It is however, a non-current model, and who can say what happened in the last 30 years.
 
Back
Top