Distributor 1941 3 Bolt Design

Ordered the Coil from Dennis Carpenter should have it today :-)

Do have question on Plugs?? Should probable start a new thread but any suggestions for spark plugs would be appreciated Have the standard Champion H10
's in the engine currently (I'm pretty sure )
 
John


I'll check the wire wound resistor and the connections just to be on the safe side -appreciate the inf

bob
 
Veeder said:
Ordered the Coil from Dennis Carpenter should have it today :-)

Do have question on Plugs?? Should probable start a new thread but any suggestions for spark plugs would be appreciated Have the standard Champion H10
's in the engine currently (I'm pretty sure )
Click to expand...

There have been many posts here on spark plugs. A quick search will bring those up for you.

Not really sure which coil you ordered from DC, but there have been previous reports here of folks having problems with DC's '37-'41 off shore made coils failing prematurely.
In my opinion, I believe you would have been far better off having an original coil rewound by someone like Skip Haney.
 
Suggestion on the Diode ckt - install an in-line fuse. Not sure of the amperage the coil pulls but sure someone here can tell us. If I had my system back together I would give you some rough numbers, regardless of how much current is being pulled be sure to not exceed the current rating of the wire you are using in the bypass ckt.
 
Ok Had a family get together this wkend and didn't get home til late this afternoon but discovered I had received the final shipment of parts. so between the typical unpacking catching up on stuff I rebuilt the distributor and installed it. Additionally I'm going to send my old stock coil to Skip and get it rebuilt and will also try to find another distributor and get him to rebuild if my most recent attempt fails. I just think going back to the stock coil is the right thing to do.

Will take it for a test ride tomorrow after work, To late to be driving it tonight but it did start.

the list of replacement parts
New external coil from Dennis Carpenter (1 ohm resistance between Batt & Dist terminal)
plugs
wires
rotor
factory points which have the brass sleeve on the piviot point (MUCH BETTER THEN NAPA POINTS!!!) The contact points lined up perfectly.
replaced the plate that the points mount to.
both end caps

with some luck this saga will be over and this post/multiple threads will be over
 
Well guess its time to end the thread with not the kind of news most of us want. Called a friend who runs a restoration bussiness close to Windsor who told me bring it up "we might both learn something on this one" Barely made it to his shop (about 7 miles away) he and one of his guys spent three hours on it with me.

No real show stopper except he noticed a few little things one of the new set of points was not seating exactly square and two he said it was turning to hard. Took it all apart again!!! and lubed up the front bearing well and he reassembled it. One other thing two of the spark plug wires had not been fully engaged in the inner cap Thes certainly would cause it to skip but not cause the points to be stuck closed when hot and not run at all untll it cooled off. It was not the coil, wires rotor or the condenser it was the points closing getting to hot.
It appears as though a few minor issues caused my grief I'm really leaning towards the front bearing not being turning smoothly and caused enough heat to travel back to the breaker plate effecting the gap.

Bottom line after this experience I';m going to find a second distributor and get it rebuilt by skip and keep it in the trunk. This was really such a pain spent way to much time on it!.

Lastly I appreciated all feedback it was helpful

bob
 
OH Gosh Yes I'm still dealing with this (unbelievable this thread goes back so far!!!)) Had some health issues so haven't really been able to dedicate the time needed but I'm back on this. I spoke to Skip (nice guy) he suggested that based on what I told him over the phone it is not an issues in the distributor and wanted me to try a new NAPA Condenser which I did without success. Stay tuned the distributor is coming back off the car for the NNth time I'm convinced something is shorting to grd when the engine gets up to 180 degrees measured the temp at the distributor was approx. 150 degrees. Car would not start again until the distributor cooled down to the 125 degree range. I am not giving up on this. I wish I had another distributor to throw on this thing just to prove to myself it is the distributor........ More tomorrow

What a kick in the head this has been
 
hi , sorry to hear your trouble , you have too low voltage to your coil when the resistor is hot , you said that to get home you bypass the resistor and it runs , proving the voltage is too low, on the HAMB there is a post about this , using an external coil conversion with the stock resistor the voltage goes too low , the stock coil is 3-4 volts hot , but most external 6v coil systems require 6 volts to the coil. run with the resistor bypassed and see if the points burn out , if they don't , keep the pedal to the metal . good luck .
 
Ignition systems have three components that can be temperature sensitive. The ballast resistor, the condenser, and the coil. These items need to be tested according to acceptable standards with appropriate equipment. When you rule out all the possibilities, your problem should be solved. Keep in mind, the fuel system can also experience heat related problems but they are generally due to internal leakage that floods the engine and empties the float bowl. Float bowl percolation can be a problem under very extreme temperatures too. The condition of the spark advance system can cause problems with engine temperature so you have to insure it is also in good working order.

Some of the replacement ignition parts available these days are crap. Just because it's new doesn't mean you can trust it. I would only replace with parts that have been tested properly or are known to be in good reliable working order. You can get with Bubba, Skip, or a number of other folks who have the necessary equipment to insure you have good components. Shooting in the dark is no fun as you well know. Be open to any and all possibilities too. If you focus on one area and it turns out to be another, you will end up hating your old Ford and that's not good.
 
thks to everyone as always!!!! I give up calling Skip in the AM to see if he will take my parts and give me a working distributor. Today got the engine to 190 degrees (Distributors temp approx. 150 degrees) engine started missing a bit made it into the garage and that was the end of it (car would not restart) What was a bit interesting is the temperature on the distributor was rising a bit after I shut the engine down which might explain the few times I took a ride everything was fine stopped for 15mins then it would not start. Regardless pulled the distributor off hot one set of points went from .017 to a tight .013 the other set seemed fine around .017. Last week I set the gab big on purpose. One set of points is not lining up well.

Anyways hoping to talk to Skip in the AM and see what he can do for me the distributor is back in pieces but I can easily reassemble the unit but I'm hoping skip will just start over with it.

I will keep you guys posted
bob
 
Not quite over this yet but I WANT TO SAY THANK YOU TO SKIP HANEY for the distributitor help!!!!

Skip Haney
Punta Gorda, FL
phone 941-637-6698 leave a message for him he has always called me back

He also does water pumps
 
Think Napa's sliding in the pits. made in some grass hut with dirt a floor; 5 condensers since June. I mounted it on the coil bracket so it takes few seconds to change. I doesn't
have to be in or on any distrubutor, many trucks and buses were on the coil.
 
Veeder said:
ok tried it again no dice I'm beginning to question weather these NAPA points should be set the same as factory. I did look real close at the shaft and I also coated it with 3M liquid tape in the center however I have fairly convinced myseld that it has something to do with the points. Stay tuned once I find the solution I will let you guys know
Click to expand...

The napa cs47 points need to be realigned in most cases. The bottom plate is off a little causing the point set to run on the adjustment limit a little. Seems the tooling to make the plate is worn a little causing a miss on the contact alignment . I have to bend 9 out of ten to get them right. :eek:
 
If you go to the swap meets and flea markets in your area, watch for NOS ignition parts, such as points, caps, rotors, condensers, etc. even if they are from Sears or Western Auto, they are probably better than the imported stuff we're getting.
 
Condensers, especially old ones that have been stored for long periods, may have been made from materials that degrade like wax paper. I wouldn't trust an old condenser without complete testing. New condensers can be bad right out of the box so all condensers really should be tested. I think the corporate conglomerate world doesn't bode well for niche markets.
 
The coil conversion plate can have a poor rivet join at the top at the condenser through to the spring some of these I have had to solder .When they get hot the contact is lost ,Ted
 
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