Difficult Oil Pan Removal

I've removed stuck oil pans by heating the flange with a propane hand torch... which softens the glue and gasket surprisingly fast.
Take EXTRA precautions to avoid ignition of gas and old baked on oil deposits.
 
Well, after 2 hours of scraping knuckles and rising blood pressure, I was able to remove the oil pan using a modified putty knife and hammer.

What do you suggest to apply to the pan and block? Last time I used a silicone based permatex and regret it. I used axle grease on my water pump.
What about another type of permatext?

Thanks
Leo
 
If the engine is installed then you need something to hold the gaskets to the block while you install the oil pan. I like to use a thin coating of silicone, with a dab at the 4 spots where the cork end gaskets meet the side gaskets. 3M weatherstrip adhesive is another good choice to hold the gaskets up to the block. Then if you put a thin layer of grease on the pan lip it should be easily removed the next time it has to come off.

If the engine is upside down on an engine stand you have more choices because the gasket will just lay there while you bolt the pan down.

I hear several people say to tie the gasket to the pan lip, but if you are under the car how can you be sure the gasket ends engage properly with the cork on the ends? I always secure the gaskets to the block and never have leaks.
 
I use Permatex #2 on the block and then stick the gasket onto the block. Permatex #2 does not harden and the gasket will come off easily down the road. I also use Permatex high temp Red on the ends of the cork gasket where it meets the pan gasket at the rear.

No problems with leaks or removal.

I am assuming that Permatex #2 is still available. I have had my tube for about 20 years now I still use it regularly.

Dick
 
My 84 year old Dad who still works 50 hours most weeks always said, "Do not over tighten the pan bolts." Ideally tighten evenly starting from the middle and work outward and do not use a long ratchet arm but rather "use a 4" tee handle in the palm of your hand."
 
My method is to attach the gasket to the pan with gasket cement, drop the bolts through each hole for alignment and let it sit over night . Coat the top of the gasket with a liberal coating of wheel bearing grease before installing to the engine block. This way if you have to drop the pan the gasket should come off with the pan. And if you decide to replace the gasket it is a lot easier scraping the old gasket off the pan while it is sitting on a work bench rather then laying under the car trying to scrape it off the block.

Tom Endy
 
I have been using #3 Permatex, let it get tacky and stick it to the block and fit in the ends at the rear gasket with some #2. Take it off with a putty knife pretty easy.
 
I would think a thin flexable narrow putty knife would be better than a stiff one. I removed three bathroom vanity sinks that were put down with silicone. It worked really well. and maybe use a heat gun some. Might help soften it up a little. I didn't need a heat gun with the vanitys.
 
I realize that I'm beating this to death but I have no interest in doing this again next winter.

Some other points.
1. Last time I used cork gaskets on the pan proper, this time I'm trying felt. Does that change the type of sealer to use?
2. My system is pressurized.
3. Last go 'round I torqued the bolts to 20lbs. I think I got that from Andrews book.

I'm gonna post a pic tomorrow of the bearing cap gasket (that 6" or so strip) that I haven't yet removed. That's where my biggest leak was but that darn thing looks good. There a deep groove in the middle from end to end. I've heard that the tube on the bearing cap can clog. But it seems like too much of a coincidence that it clogged at the exact time that I changed the gasket.

Anyway, thanks for your patience.

You'll be hearing from me again.
Leo
 
20lbs. is too much and especially for cork gaskets. I like cork but you need to remember to resnug them after a few days, as cork will take a set.

I use the same sealer with cork or paper.
 
The groove in the middle of the rear cap gasket is where the oil pan contacts that gasket and is a good sign that the seal is good there. The tough part is the joint between that cap gasket and the flat pan gasket. Andrews talks about correctly fitting that joint. I use a glob of #2 permatex there.
 
If 20ft\lbs is too much for cork what is appropriate? 10? 15?

I am about to do this and would prefer to do it once. Something tells me its going to take 2 or 3 shots since its my first time though :(
 
I have never measured the torque, but I would guess just a few ft/lb. You just want it "snug" which is using a small hand wrench or socket handle to join and secure the gasket to the pan and block plus maybe one more turn or so. You will feel the bolts grip and start to resist further turning when the gasket contact is made and firmed up. Tighten a small bit more. Dont squish the gasket. Recheck in a few days but you can drive it in the meantime. There are very few if any leaks around the perimiter of the pan, most come from where the pan gasket joins the front seal and the rear main cap gasket. The key there is correct gasket placement of the pan gasket end tabs and seal of those tabs to the front seal and rear cap gasket. The tabs stay on the block. The rear gasket tab goes into the rear main gasket slot. The rear cap gasket goes on top of the tab, the front tab against the seal. I put in a dab of #2 Permatex on those joints. Pressure system makes no difference, there is no pressure on the gaskets. Overtight is not going to make a better seal. Be sure the rear cap gasket is correct for your engine--the 28-29 and 30-31 are different. It is not necessary to put any sealer on that gasket except maybe to hold it in place. It also helps installation if you soak the rear cap gasket in warm water in a can or cup for a couple of days to put a curved set into it. I soak the front seal in oil for a few days, others dont. Dont dispair. It can be done the first time.
 
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I also have had a difficult time removing pans. The one "sure-fire" method I have used without damaging anything is to:
a) Remove all bolts
b) Insert a sharpened putty knife between the pan and the block in at
least two locations on the same side of block (usually drivers side),
using a ball peen as necessary. Insert the putty knives exactly at
bolt hole locations.
c) Start pan bolts in the holes from the top (threaded) side and gradually
tighten to force the pan off.
d) Have an extra putty knife (or similar) on hand since the bolts
sometimes will punch a hole right through the knife before the pan
releases.
Has always worked for me.
Geo.T
 
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Re: Difficult Oil Pan Removal
I also have had a difficult time removing pans. The one "sure-fire" method I have used without damaging anything is to:
a) Remove all bolts
b) Insert a sharpened putty knife between the pan and the block in at
least two locations on the same side of block (usually drivers side),
using a ball peen as necessary. Insert the putty knives exactly at
bolt hole locations.
c) Start pan bolts in the holes from the top (threaded) side and gradually
tighten to force the pan off.
d) Have an extra putty knife (or similar) on hand since the bolts
sometimes will punch a hole right through the knife before the pan
releases.
Has always worked for me.
Geo.T
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