Difficult Oil Pan Removal

spinelll

spinelll

Senior Member
Last winter I changed by oil pan gaskets and my leaks proved worse than berfore. I think the bearing cap cork got whacked. In any case, this winter one of my projects is to change it again.
Yesterday, I tried to remove the pan but that baby is stuck. When I did the job last year I used a silicone permatex. I think that was a mistake. I can barely jam a razor knife between the pan and the block. How the heck can I get this thing off?

Leo
 
Try taking a good quality putty knife and drive it between the pan and the engine block pan rail. Work you way around the pan. Then take a heavy rubber mallet and tap the sides of the pan to break it loose.

As you found out there is no need to "glue" a pan to the engine. Pan gaskets work best without any type of sealer/cement applied when installing the pan. A little Form-A-Gasket at the joint where the rear cap gasket meets the pan gasket and some at the front where the pan gasket meets the rope gasket is all you need.

JD
 
Do not forget the crank has to be in a special place or the pan will not come off all the way. This might apply to v8s. I can not remember.
 
Unfortunately; sounds like a combination of a thin putty knife and a little bit of pounding with a rubber mallet (prevoius suggestion). Maybe you can use a flat peice of wood on the side of the pan to tap on as not to put any dents in your pan,:eek:

Good luck.
 
Silicone works well with paper gaskets

As you found out there is no need to "glue" a pan to the engine. Pan gaskets work best without any type of sealer/cement applied when installing the pan. A little Form-A-Gasket at the joint where the rear cap gasket meets the pan gasket and some at the front where the pan gasket meets the rope gasket is all you need.

JD[/QUOTE]

JD, I agree only to the extent that to much sealant will put you in the position of the gent starting this post or worse. I have been using paper gaskets and a very thin bead of silicone on both sides of the pan gaskets for some time now.. the last 40 engines assembled. From my experience, it works really good. No leaks! To much sealant is a definite mistake as it will weld the pan to the rail but worse, it will most likely squeeze into the engine and if it breaks loose, it ends up in the oil pump screen or other places less desireable.
Good Day!
DAve in MN
 
I use either a dalap of grease or a thread to tie the gasket in place during assembly. The pull the thread out.
Clem
 
if you want to use a sealer to hold the gasket in place use a non hardening type and on the pan only, that way the gasket will come down with the pan
 
All of the bolts are off.
The first method I tried was the putty knife. There just isn't enough of a gap to slide ir in. As I said, I'm barely able to push a utlitiy (razor) knife in there. It's also in an awkward position that doesn't offer good working room. I'm gonna try the wood bloack and hammer. Any cautions on that technique?
Any other suggestions?

Thanks
Leo
 
I have a few really nice oil pans that I'm not going to use Please let me know if you need one.
 
spinelll said:
All of the bolts are off.
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spinelll said:
The first method I tried was the putty knife. There just isn't enough of a gap to slide ir in. As I said, I'm barely able to push a utlitiy (razor) knife in there. It's also in an awkward position that doesn't offer good working room. I'm gonna try the wood bloack and hammer. Any cautions on that technique?
Any other suggestions?

If the pan is stuck as you say, it would take a pretty big hammer to knock it loose with a block of wood. I've used a form of this method a big "dead blow" hammer and a lightly padded block of wood may do the job.
IMO: I would try the putty knife method again...use a narrow stiff putty knife that has been sharpened or use a gasket scraper. Try to drive the tool into the joint and just keep working at it. To get a corner loose to provide a place to start, look at the engine from the passenger side hood opening, you will note a bit of the pan extending beyond the edges of the side timing cover. A piece of hardwood 1x2 can be set on this edge and tapped with a mallet to break the seal. You should be driving the pan down at this edge. Don't over do it...get the pan to move a bit and then use the putty knife method to assist. Put a couple pan bolts in loosely to catch the pan when it lets loose.
Good luck!
Dave in MN
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sonny30coupe said:
On that type of seal I use axle grease on my gaskets. That way they can be reused and they dont leak.
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Good advice, I always put sealer between the pan and the gasket and grease between the gasket and the block. That way I can reuse the gasket and it doesn't stick, though next time I think I'll only use grease.
 
Be patient....Don't get too carried away with the hammer and wood block, as you could damage, break or crack the oil pump and or rear main bearing drain tube.
 
Use a thin or sharpended putty knife, and drive it in with a hammer on the seam between the block and gasket. You want the gasket to come down with the pan because it is a lot easier to clean off the pan than the bloc. I start on the left side because it is more accessible for me. Using the hammer on the knife handle is not going to hurt anything. Start with just the sharp corner of teh putty knife blade, not the full width. You can even use a pocket knife to first score the gasket for a place to put the corner of the putty knife. You may have to drive the putty knife along the seam with the hammer for a bit. Once it starts to loosen it goes pretty easy. I dont think pounding on the side of the pan will do the job--you have to break that seal.
 
I had a pan that was so stuck nothing was working especially since the edge of the pan is so close to the frame. Finally, I tried a suggestion which worked. Cut off the end of a putty knife. Drive the cut off piece between the pan and block with a ball peen hammer. This gave enough room to do all of this whereas the handle of a putty knife even shortened did not allow space to hit it. Don't remember what the sealer was (I bought the car with this done) but it seemed like the next thing to being welded!
 
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