Differential oil leak..HELP!

Harylufa

Harylufa

Senior Member
Hi All!

I have this oil leak, what must I do in this case?

Who can give any advise about this?

I appreciate your help.

Hary
 

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I'd say the only way to properly fix this issue is to completely disassemble the rear axle, clean it out, install new gaskets between the bells and the banjo section (along with new axle-shaft seals) and put 'er together again. It doesn't look there's any "quick fix" here, but maybe I'm wrong.
 
Admiral said:
I'd say the only way to properly fix this issue is to completely disassemble the rear axle, clean it out, install new gaskets between the bells and the banjo section (along with new axle-shaft seals) and put 'er together again. It doesn't look there's any "quick fix" here, but maybe I'm wrong.
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Hi Admiral!
I just was thinking the same, there is a oil leak in transmission too.

I must take it as a project as am in vacation now.

thanks for reading

Hary
 
First I would clean the banjo and try to find where the leak is coming from. Are all the bolts tight?
 
One old quick fix trick that people used to do is clean the banjo housing really good especially where the axle housings bolts are. Drain the oil out then back off the bolts on the axle housing but do not remove them. Pry the axle housing away from the banjo center far enough to put a couple wraps of dental floss between them then retighten . But like it has been already said , the only way to really fix it is to remove it and replace the gaskets.
 
Your leak looks like the same one I had that I stopped by just tightening all of the bolts around the differential. Don't know how or why they were loose but the were. Might just try that first.
 
Hary, As this condition is not a new issue, I wouldn't get excited about it before determining what the cause is, and the extent of repair it will likely require.
In the order of need, the first thing to do is to remove the wheels and drums to inspect the brakes. If oil has migrated out to that point, the problem becomes urgent and must be fixed immediately. If the brakes have not been saturated with oil, you can celebrate and proceed slowly to determine the cause of the leak.

Your transmission leaks as well as your differential, which tells me that there may be an excess of oil in both systems, or that the oil used may be too thin, The two systems being connected by the torque tube, oil is relatively free to migrate from one to the other, so one leak may reflect an overfilling of the other.

On both the transmission and the differential, the correct method of filling is from the side plug, to prevent overfilling. With the car level, remove and replace both side plugs one at a time to confirm that one or the other is not presently overfilled. If it is, oil will drain out, which will be another cause for celebration.

Now determine the oil used when those systems are serviced. If motor oil has been used in the past, that is way too thin, and will quickly damage both units as well as leak out at every possible point. A quick fix in this case will slow the leakage and prevent further damage, simply by draining both and filling with the proper weight oil. If neither the transmission nor the differential are noisy now, you're ok to proceed to find and repair the leaks.

As advised above, clean the units, and watch for the location of the first oil to escape, then decide if a repair is worth the effort. Remember the sage advice about Fords: "If it don't leak, it aint got no oil in it".
 
You could try draining and one by one pull the bolts, clean inspected and use some permatex non hardening sealant , tighten them up as you go. Doubt if it will stop it altogether , didn't on mine however enough so disassembly is not required.
 
There was a post a while back, about thr former Prez of the model A club, running STP in his ****** and rear end, for the past 20 years. I am running STP and some Lucas in my 39 trans, it has quieted it down some, and does not leak. You need today's better lubricants, and a little thinker lube that will not leak. It works for me.
 
Dear Friends¡

I do not remember but I installed 140 (differential) oil at the beginning of this year. Two weeks ago put 90w transmission and the seller told me It was empty. Now, A months ago I tightened the drums nuts because there was a noise, so I disassembled wheels and drums. nuts were loose, only half turn was needed.

I will clean banjo and came with news and pics

Thanks for helping me

Hary
 
We rebuilt our banjo , then had a good leak. Seems one side of the banjo to tube bolts were loose. Thorough clean with brake clean and clean bolts and holes one by one blow out with air ,seal with loctite thread sealant. Perfect for the last 1000 miles.
 
Hi all!

Today i could fix leaks from banjo. I discovered nuts were loose, connection to transmission.
Six nuts were tied with wire I turned almost a half nut turn. Till now leak has stopped. Tomorrow I will check if It really stopped banjo leak.

I post some pics were leak came from.

What do you think?

Hary
 

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Hary, Looks like you've found the source of the leak. This proves just how durable our old Fords are! Try driving for years with loose connecting bolts on any major part of a newer car!

In case anyone read this post before I edited this morning, I have no excuse for my dumb answer, other than I had just gotten off a sick bed. I'd forgotten about the safety wired bolts, and was thinking castle nuts!
 
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Hi all!

After 24 hours of running my differential till no leaks, I hope I have fixed the leak.

I attach a new pic.

I really thanks all of you for helping me and posting.

Hary
 

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ford38v8 said:
Hary, Looks like you've found the source of the leak. This proves just how durable our old Fords are! Try driving for years with loose connecting bolts on any major part of a newer car!

In case anyone read this post before I edited this morning, I have no excuse for my dumb answer, other than I had just gotten off a sick bed. I'd forgotten about the safety wired bolts, and was thinking castle nuts!
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Hi Ford38v8!

I have no doubt how durable old Fords are...after 18 years being with me, I till believe in my car....

Thanks for posting and help

Hary
 
When replacing the gaskets, measure the total thickness of the old gaskets and replace with the same stack of thickness. Also, do not run a tap through the banjo to clean the threads. The threads are not tapped all the way in order that the bolts will tighten and seal like pipe threads do. This was Henry's way of avoiding a leak at each bolt.
 
Now, look, This is an observation, rather than a criticism, and I would like others to comment. There appear to be washers under the heads of the bolts. Now as has been stated many times recently, the bolts and threads in the banjo are supposed to be a good tight fit to help prevent leakage. So I would think that the bolts should be removed one by one, the washers removed, the holes cleaned and de-greased, but not retapped and the bolts refitted without any washers. you might add a smear of sealant if you want.

How does that sound??

Mart.
 
Mart and V12Bill, I guess you didn't read Hary's posts from yesterday and this morning. He's found the leak to have been from the torque tube as it bolts to the banjo. No leak from the banjo/axle housings.

And Mart, yes, sealant on the threads is the only way to go, just as on engine head studs.
 
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