Diff oil ends upp in gearbox?

Mr 42

Mr 42

Senior Member
My 33-34 rear axle have always emptied the oil into the gearbox.
So i have filled it once every season, and emptied the grabox to right level.

But now i have the feeling it's starting to do it more quickly if you get what i mean.

Is this a known problem /issue, and can something be done.
Never had this problem before with my other Ford's.
 
Yes, but it's usually the other way around. Usually, the transmission lube leaks past the rear bearing retainer, into the clamshell, past the driveshaft seal, past the pinion bearing, into the banjo. But that's on a car with stock suspension, where the rear end is lower than the transmission. It appears from your avatar that your rear end is lifted enough for the reverse to happen.
 
I have original suspension, just really big rear wheels 7,00x18", Maybe i should park it with the front wheels higher :-)
 
Or put 7.00x18"'s on the front!! What a look that would be!!

Seriously, I think it was Henry's way of making sure that the u-joint and rear end always had lube in it! Of course, that meant that you'd periodically have to transfer lube from one end to the other!
 
Mr 42 said:
My 33-34 rear axle have always emptied the oil into the gearbox.
So i have filled it once every season, and emptied the grabox to right level.

But now i have the feeling it's starting to do it more quickly if you get what i mean.

Is this a known problem /issue, and can something be done.
Never had this problem before with my other Ford's.
Click to expand...

Hi Lars,
An easy soloution for the problem :-)

Lot at http://brucesrodshop.myshopify.com/products/1937-1948-torque-tube-seal-plate

For a good soloution
 
I installed one of Bruce's Rod Shop torque tube seals on a 32 I just put together. It has a dropped axle, so had the same problem you are experiencing. The torque tube seal solved that.

Neal
 
my4dv8 said:
We had 750 x 16 and 550 x16 with a 4" drop axle and had similar troubles. A bandaid was a drain from the gear box filler bung to a small catch can with a pump attached operated by a float switch to return the errant oil to the diff. It worked well for 2 yrs till we went open drive.
Here are another couple of manufacturers of torque tube seals.
http://www.verntardel.com/products/torque-tube-baffle
http://www.seabrighthotrods.com/?p=522
Click to expand...

I contacted the The Seabright folks a while back and they are no longer making that piece. I wish they were.
 
NealinCA said:
I installed one of Bruce's Rod Shop torque tube seals on a 32 I just put together. It has a dropped axle, so had the same problem you are experiencing. The torque tube seal solved that.

Neal
Click to expand...

Neal. Did the extra thickness of the added flange effect the reinstallation of the torque tube?
 
19Fordy said:
I am wondering if the thickness of the added flange of the piece will effect if the original torque tube will still "bolt right up"without any problems.Has anyone actually installed this piece?
Click to expand...

I have installed one in a 32. The 1/16" does not affect the torque tube in any noticeable way.

10268729_1409482645997616_1552846114_n.jpg


Neal
 
Mr. 42, the seal kit from Bruces was the way to go but if they aren't making it any longer you can do what I did. I went to a show repair and they gave me a scrap piece of leather. I fabricated a seal and so far it has worked for over 10 years. It looks like you have a pretty good "rake" so the gear oil draining to the lowest point. Parking it uphill will only temporarily solve your problem. Try the leather seal.
 
woodiewagon46 said:
Mr. 42, the seal kit from Bruces was the way to go but if they aren't making it any longer you can do what I did. I went to a show repair and they gave me a scrap piece of leather. I fabricated a seal and so far it has worked for over 10 years. It looks like you have a pretty good "rake" so the gear oil draining to the lowest point. Parking it uphill will only temporarily solve your problem. Try the leather seal.
Click to expand...

Woodie, I think Bruce's Rod shop is still making the seal BUT we need more info. on your leather seal. Can you post a photo or sketch of exactly what type of leather , how it's made and how it fits. Thanks, JIM
 
Lars, I discussed this with my mate Gavin. He has the green 32 pickup and has a substantial rake.

He actually went and did something I had only thought about. He fitted a hand pump under the floor of the cab and on a longer journey he occasionally gives the pump a few strokes. I would have to ask him how often he does use the pump, but so far he says it is working well.

His oil migration problem was so bad he needed to drain the box and refill the axle before, in the middle of, and at the end of any longer journey.

I will ask him if he can share some pics of the setup. The plus side of this fix (I know it's only a bandaid) is that it can be retrofitted to an already built car withyout any dismantling of major components.

Mart.
 
The Vern Tardell seal is more like a dam and it did not work well enough. I do not believe they make it any more. I have one of them and would sell it. I now have Bruces seal and have no problems. There is also a seal on the front of the torque tube that should block the transmission from draining back to the differential. The extra thickness of Bruces seal and adding it to the length of the torque tube is not a problem.
 
Jim, all I did was to get a piece of leather about 3/16" thick and traced the torque tube flange on it. I made it about about 1/4" bigger to allow for "stretch", because it will not lay flat because of the taper bearing. I also made the bolt holes a little larger. I then cut the "bore" about the same size as the lock nuts. I then made a large sheet metal "washer" to go between the lock nuts and leather, sort of an oil slinger. All you are trying to do is stop the gear oil from coming thru the taper bearing and sort of making a dam of sorts. The thickness of the leather between the torque tube and the rear didn't affect anything. The car I made it for toasted two sets of gears because of this problem and the leather seal fix has now been in for 10 years now and still going strong. Crude but it seems to work.
 
woodiewagon46 said:
Jim, all I did was to get a piece of leather about 3/16" thick and traced the torque tube flange on it. I made it about about 1/4" bigger to allow for "stretch", because it will not lay flat because of the taper bearing. I also made the bolt holes a little larger. I then cut the "bore" about the same size as the lock nuts. I then made a large sheet metal "washer" to go between the lock nuts and leather, sort of an oil slinger. All you are trying to do is stop the gear oil from coming thru the taper bearing and sort of making a dam of sorts. The thickness of the leather between the torque tube and the rear didn't affect anything. The car I made it for toasted two sets of gears because of this problem and the leather seal fix has now been in for 10 years now and still going strong. Crude but it seems to work.
Click to expand...

Wow! Ten years and still going strong. That's great.
Thank you very much. JIM
 
Thanks guys.
And i thought i was the only one with the problem. :-)
I have been aware of Vern's solution.
But i will look into the leather solution.

I guess it will be a Winter job.

Now i get around 700km betwwen filling up.
 
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