Crooked head studs

Bought a set of the non-hardened studs then using the gasket as a template, I tweaked each stud with a two foot piece of 3/4 water pipe until the gasket fit nice. The head then slipped right on as it should. Made one goof though. The longer #8 stud should have used a washer to replace the ignition clamp that I don't need/use. Torqued all 14 studs to 55 lbs, but wonder if I have really torqued that one stud or just bottomed out the thread.?
Question: If I loosen that one stud to add a washer or two then re-torque it to 55 Lbs, is that OK? I have read a thread somewhere that someone warped their head doing that. Seems hard to believe that if all the other studs are torqued around it there would be a problem. Or should I loosen all the studs in the reverse pattern order before adding the washers then re-torque all of them? I have not started the engine so none of the parts have had the chance to expand due to engine heat.
-Denver
 
Last edited:
you should be fine just removing that one nut. its done all the time to pull the distributor out. if you already filled your cooling system make sure you drain it down before you remove the nut to prevent it from seeping into the cylinders or oil....
 
Thanks for that quick reply, Mitch, now I can get on with getting this thing back together without worrying too much about nothing.
 
Here is something to think about.
Many people are always saying, never tap the stud holes, just use a thread chaser so the thread is not enlarged.
Now what do you think is going to happen to that thread when you start beating or bending sideways on the installed stud?
By the way, ARP studs are made in the USA and are always straight and concentric.
 
Pete said:
Here is something to think about.
Many people are always saying, never tap the stud holes, just use a thread chaser so the thread is not enlarged.
Now what do you think is going to happen to that thread when you start beating or bending sideways on the installed stud?
By the way, ARP studs are made in the USA and are always straight and concentric.
Click to expand...

Very good point, plus busting some cast iron out.
 
Good points all, but in my case it turned out not to be so much a problem with the studs but rather a problem with poorly installed heli-coils in the block. I did not tap or hammer against the studs. To remedy the problem I installed the two long studs in the front (Water pump) first. They checked out to be straight. then using the gasket as a template I checked each successive stud to see how far and in which direction it was not perpendicular to the block. After determining the correction needed I ran a nut down on the stud to protect the thread. Then I inserted a two foot length of 3/4 inch water pipe over the nut and down to the block surface before carefully bending each stud in the direction needed. I continued the process until all the studs were installed. The head slipped right on just like it was supposed to.
Now I have a different problem with aligning the hood. I will start a new thread for that and hope to get the same great help I have received from all of you.
Thanks again,
-Denver
 
I always run a 1/32" oversize drill through the stud holes in my heads. Head goes on & off EASIER! Bill W. (Please don't yell at me for this, I gotta' headache.:()
 
BILL WILLIAMSON said:
I always run a 1/32" oversize drill through the stud holes in my heads. Head goes on & off EASIER! Bill W. (Please don't yell at me for this, I gotta' headache.:()
Click to expand...

Don't you know making head removal too easy could lead to theft of your head.:mad:

Sure would hate to see you loose your head!:eek::D:p
 
No, I'm NOT Krazy, once while carefully maneuvering the new style head gasket over the stud threads, I distinctly heard Chief behind me, sayin' "Talk to it!--Talk to It"!
I've heard several remarks from my cars, such as, OW! OW!, NO! NO! not that!, AW! that's GOOD! Gregg is never around when they talk, to verify that I'm not KRAZY! Bill W.
 
Started the engine this afternoon, sounds pretty good so far. Let it run at idle for about 25 minutes. Temp only got to 150 Deg. It has a 160 Deg Thermostat so don't know why it never reached 160. Possibly the Thermostat is stuck open, but didn't appear so during re-installation of the hoses. Will re-torque the head studs in the A.M.
Thanks to all of you for your various inputs.
-Denver
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top