Creating a list for what to do to winterize your A
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burner31
Well-known member
I had to look this one up...
(This article appeared in the October 2001 NEBLINE Newsletter)
University of Nebraska-Lincoln
The belief about the use of hedge apples for insect control is widespread and persistent. it is claimed that placing hedge apples around the foundation or inside the basement will repel or control insects. A few years ago, Iowa State University toxicologists extracted compounds from hedge apples. When concentrated, these compounds were found to repel insects.
Scientists also found that natural concentrations of these compounds in the fruit were too low to be an effective repellent. So, don't be fooled into spending much to use hedge apples as an insect repellent.
If you decide to pick hedge apples to check out the repellency yourself or to use the fruit as a fall decoration, it would be wise to wear gloves. The milky juice present in the stems and fruit of the Osage-orange can irritate the skin.
Mike Peters
Well-known member
For those of you who may not be familiar with Hedge Apples, they grow all over the midwestern U.S. These came from our fence row. I bring a few in for fall decorations.
If these might keep mice out of our cars, I'm all ears. Nothing like some botany on Ford Barn. LOL!
If these might keep mice out of our cars, I'm all ears. Nothing like some botany on Ford Barn. LOL!
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modela@aol.com
Well-known member
Here is my final copy using all of the input from other interested Model A owners. We just included this in our latest October Newsletter for our local Model A Club. Feel free to share this listing with others and you may use in your newsletters. I know not everyone will agree with everything here on this listing but I gave everyone an opportunity to pick it apart earlier. So too late......
Model A Winterization Checklist
Cooling Area
It is better to top off the radiator with 50/50 mix of Antifreeze than to drain the radiator and engine. A drained block is inviting rust to form internally over the Winter. Inspect hoses looking for any leaks. Inspect Water Pump for leaks and tighten packing nut if needed and grease the front bearing. Inspect fan belt for wear and it can actually be loosened up during storage.
Fuel Area
The general agreement is to store the car with a full gas tank. Again not giving rust any chance to form internally inside the gas tank. It would not hurt to check for any fuel leaks at the shut off and carburetor lines. A top off of Real Gasoline without Alcohol is recommended. You may also wish to add some Marvel Mystery Oil or StaBil in with the gasoline for long term storage. With your engine running at normal operating temperature, turn off the fuel shut off valve and run the engine until it runs out of fuel thus draining the carburetor bowl.
Battery
Top off the battery with distilled water in all cells. Put on battery charger and top the charge off. It is recommended to monitor the battery over the Winter months and / or use a battery maintainer or trickle charger to keep any sulfites from forming and shorting out the plates at the bottom of the cells. Most 6 volts batteries can offer approximately 10 years of life with proper running charging and maintenance. It is optional to remove the battery from the car and keep on a wooden stand. This may protect the battery holder from corrosion. Also it is recommended to wash the battery case with ammonia or a baking soda solution to neutralize any acids. It is good to put a coating of dielectric grease on the cleaned off battery terminals for protection as well.
Tires
Top off the tires to ~ 35 psi of air pressure. Some people like to jack up their car and put on 4 jack stands to keep the tires off the ground and to prevent flat spots. You can release the parking brake as well. This is also a good time to look over the tires for general condition and you may desire to put on a tire preservative on the rubber. Lug nuts should be torque to at least 65 foot pounds.
Engine
Two trains of thought on oil changes. 1.) Good to do the oil change when you put the car into storage as it will eliminate any acids that formed in the oil over the touring season.
2.) Just do a oil change in the Spring when you get the car out of its Winter hibernation. Same thoughts on Fall versus Spring are also on lubing the chassis grease zerks and oiling any lube spots.
Remove spark plugs and spray in fogging oil into the cylinders. Clean and regap spark plugs and replace.
Distributor
Set the point gap and put a business card in between the points to prevent corrosion and to keep the point surfaces clean.
If you are running a fuse please remove the fuse to prevent any possible electrical shorts over their storage that could possibly cause a car fire. Yes it has actually happened to Model As.
Body of Auto
Wash and dry off carefully. Polish or Wax. Cover your Auto with sheets or a car cover allowing air to reach the vehicle. If you use a top dressing it would be good to apply it now… Clean upholstery and put on rubber and leather conditioner where needed.
Rodent Control
Mice love Model A’s…. They get into the upholstery and make nests. They go into the engine block via the exhaust, open radiator caps, and oil intake tube. Cars have been known to get nuts and acorns loading up the engine blocks, radiator hoses, radiators, muffler and tail pipes.
Over the years people have sworn that Irish Spring Soap and Bounce dryer sheet work as a rodent repellent. We have also seen where this doesn’t work and the soap is actually a food supply. Old timers used moth balls in their cars as the deterent. Some people state that aluminum foil under the tires prevent the mice from crossing that surface to climb into the car.
There are rat and mouse poisons. Highly recommended by Farmer Mike Peters is :
https://www.farmandfleet.com/product...mini-bars.html
Also mouse spring traps, and mouse glue traps all work but have to be monitored and emptied. Careful off your pets around any of these mouse control solutions…
Some people put a wad of steel wool into the exhaust pipe to prevent the mouse from entering. Some put an aluminum or plastic baggie with a rubber band around the exhaust pipe, carburetor intake, and oil intake tube to keep both the critters out and any moisture that can enter your engine to create internal engine rust. Thank you.
END
Model A Winterization Checklist
Cooling Area
It is better to top off the radiator with 50/50 mix of Antifreeze than to drain the radiator and engine. A drained block is inviting rust to form internally over the Winter. Inspect hoses looking for any leaks. Inspect Water Pump for leaks and tighten packing nut if needed and grease the front bearing. Inspect fan belt for wear and it can actually be loosened up during storage.
Fuel Area
The general agreement is to store the car with a full gas tank. Again not giving rust any chance to form internally inside the gas tank. It would not hurt to check for any fuel leaks at the shut off and carburetor lines. A top off of Real Gasoline without Alcohol is recommended. You may also wish to add some Marvel Mystery Oil or StaBil in with the gasoline for long term storage. With your engine running at normal operating temperature, turn off the fuel shut off valve and run the engine until it runs out of fuel thus draining the carburetor bowl.
Battery
Top off the battery with distilled water in all cells. Put on battery charger and top the charge off. It is recommended to monitor the battery over the Winter months and / or use a battery maintainer or trickle charger to keep any sulfites from forming and shorting out the plates at the bottom of the cells. Most 6 volts batteries can offer approximately 10 years of life with proper running charging and maintenance. It is optional to remove the battery from the car and keep on a wooden stand. This may protect the battery holder from corrosion. Also it is recommended to wash the battery case with ammonia or a baking soda solution to neutralize any acids. It is good to put a coating of dielectric grease on the cleaned off battery terminals for protection as well.
Tires
Top off the tires to ~ 35 psi of air pressure. Some people like to jack up their car and put on 4 jack stands to keep the tires off the ground and to prevent flat spots. You can release the parking brake as well. This is also a good time to look over the tires for general condition and you may desire to put on a tire preservative on the rubber. Lug nuts should be torque to at least 65 foot pounds.
Engine
Two trains of thought on oil changes. 1.) Good to do the oil change when you put the car into storage as it will eliminate any acids that formed in the oil over the touring season.
2.) Just do a oil change in the Spring when you get the car out of its Winter hibernation. Same thoughts on Fall versus Spring are also on lubing the chassis grease zerks and oiling any lube spots.
Remove spark plugs and spray in fogging oil into the cylinders. Clean and regap spark plugs and replace.
Distributor
Set the point gap and put a business card in between the points to prevent corrosion and to keep the point surfaces clean.
If you are running a fuse please remove the fuse to prevent any possible electrical shorts over their storage that could possibly cause a car fire. Yes it has actually happened to Model As.
Body of Auto
Wash and dry off carefully. Polish or Wax. Cover your Auto with sheets or a car cover allowing air to reach the vehicle. If you use a top dressing it would be good to apply it now… Clean upholstery and put on rubber and leather conditioner where needed.
Rodent Control
Mice love Model A’s…. They get into the upholstery and make nests. They go into the engine block via the exhaust, open radiator caps, and oil intake tube. Cars have been known to get nuts and acorns loading up the engine blocks, radiator hoses, radiators, muffler and tail pipes.
Over the years people have sworn that Irish Spring Soap and Bounce dryer sheet work as a rodent repellent. We have also seen where this doesn’t work and the soap is actually a food supply. Old timers used moth balls in their cars as the deterent. Some people state that aluminum foil under the tires prevent the mice from crossing that surface to climb into the car.
There are rat and mouse poisons. Highly recommended by Farmer Mike Peters is :
https://www.farmandfleet.com/product...mini-bars.html
Also mouse spring traps, and mouse glue traps all work but have to be monitored and emptied. Careful off your pets around any of these mouse control solutions…
Some people put a wad of steel wool into the exhaust pipe to prevent the mouse from entering. Some put an aluminum or plastic baggie with a rubber band around the exhaust pipe, carburetor intake, and oil intake tube to keep both the critters out and any moisture that can enter your engine to create internal engine rust. Thank you.
END
modela@aol.com
Well-known member
Here is the final final revision. Thank you all for your help and comments.
Model A Winterization Checklist
Cooling Area
It is better to top off the radiator with 50/50 mix of Antifreeze than to drain the radiator and engine. A drained block is inviting rust to form internally over the Winter. Any water left in the engine and radiator if frozen will lead to major damage. Inspect hoses looking for any leaks. Inspect Water Pump for leaks and tighten packing nut if needed and grease the front bearing. Inspect fan belt for wear and it can actually be loosened up during storage.
Fuel Area
The general agreement is to store the car with a full gas tank. Again not giving rust any chance to form internally inside the gas tank. It would not hurt to check for any fuel leaks at the shut off and carburetor lines. A top off of Real Gasoline without Alcohol is recommended. You may also wish to add some Marvel Mystery Oil or StaBil in with the gasoline for long term storage. With your engine running at normal operating temperature, turn off the fuel shut off valve and run the engine until it runs out of fuel thus draining the carburetor bowl.
Battery
Top off the battery with distilled water in all cells. Put on battery charger and top the charge off. It is recommended to monitor the battery over the Winter months and / or use a battery maintainer or trickle charger to keep any sulfites from forming and shorting out the plates at the bottom of the cells. Most 6 volts batteries can offer approximately 10 years of life with proper running charging and maintenance. It is optional to remove the battery from the car and keep on a wooden stand. This may protect the battery holder from corrosion. Also it is recommended to wash the battery case with ammonia or a baking soda solution to neutralize any acids. It is good to put a coating of dielectric grease on the cleaned off battery terminals for protection as well.
Tires
Top off the tires to ~ 35 psi of air pressure. Some people like to jack up their car and put on 4 jack stands to keep the tires off the ground and to prevent flat spots. You can release the parking brake as well. This is also a good time to look over the tires for general condition and you may desire to put on a tire preservative on the rubber. Lug nuts should be torque to at least 65 foot pounds.
Engine
Two trains of thought on oil changes. 1.) Good to do the oil change when you put the car into storage as it will eliminate any acids that formed in the oil over the touring season.
2.) Just do an oil change in the Spring when you get the car out of its Winter hibernation. Same thoughts on Fall versus Spring are also on lubing all of the chassis and clutch grease zerks and oiling any lube spots.
Remove spark plugs and spray in fogging oil into the cylinders. Clean and re-gap spark plugs (normally .035) and replace.
Distributor
Set the point gap and put a business card in between the points to prevent corrosion and to keep the point surfaces clean. Grease up disti cam with Vaseline or light grease.
If you are running a fuse please remove the fuse to prevent any possible electrical shorts over storage that could possibly cause a car fire. Yes, it has actually happened to Model As.
Body of Auto
Wash and dry off carefully. Polish or Wax. Cover your Auto with sheets or a car cover allowing air to reach the vehicle. If you use a top dressing it would be good to apply it now… Clean upholstery and put on rubber and leather conditioner where needed.
Rodent Control
Mice love Model A’s…. They get into the upholstery and make nests. They go into the engine block via the exhaust, open radiator caps, and oil intake tube. Cars have been known to get nuts and acorns loading up the engine blocks, radiator hoses, radiators, muffler and tail pipes.
Over the years people have sworn that Irish Spring Soap and Bounce dryer sheet work as a rodent repellent. We have also seen where this doesn’t work and the soap is actually a food supply. Old timers used moth balls in their cars as the deterrent. Some people state that aluminum foil under the tires prevent the mice from crossing that surface to climb into the car. Not sure on this as mice have ate out of aluminum pie tins with no problem.
There are also rat and mouse poisons. Highly recommended by some Farmers is:
https://www.farmandfleet.com/s/?keyword=rodent+poison
Also mouse spring traps, and mouse glue traps all work but have to be monitored and emptied. Careful of your pets around any of these mouse control solutions…
Some people put a wad of steel wool into the exhaust pipe to prevent the mouse from entering. Some put an aluminum or plastic baggie with a rubber band around the exhaust pipe, carburetor intake, and oil intake tube to keep both the critters out and any moisture that can enter your engine to create internal engine rust. Thank you.
END
Model A Winterization Checklist
Cooling Area
It is better to top off the radiator with 50/50 mix of Antifreeze than to drain the radiator and engine. A drained block is inviting rust to form internally over the Winter. Any water left in the engine and radiator if frozen will lead to major damage. Inspect hoses looking for any leaks. Inspect Water Pump for leaks and tighten packing nut if needed and grease the front bearing. Inspect fan belt for wear and it can actually be loosened up during storage.
Fuel Area
The general agreement is to store the car with a full gas tank. Again not giving rust any chance to form internally inside the gas tank. It would not hurt to check for any fuel leaks at the shut off and carburetor lines. A top off of Real Gasoline without Alcohol is recommended. You may also wish to add some Marvel Mystery Oil or StaBil in with the gasoline for long term storage. With your engine running at normal operating temperature, turn off the fuel shut off valve and run the engine until it runs out of fuel thus draining the carburetor bowl.
Battery
Top off the battery with distilled water in all cells. Put on battery charger and top the charge off. It is recommended to monitor the battery over the Winter months and / or use a battery maintainer or trickle charger to keep any sulfites from forming and shorting out the plates at the bottom of the cells. Most 6 volts batteries can offer approximately 10 years of life with proper running charging and maintenance. It is optional to remove the battery from the car and keep on a wooden stand. This may protect the battery holder from corrosion. Also it is recommended to wash the battery case with ammonia or a baking soda solution to neutralize any acids. It is good to put a coating of dielectric grease on the cleaned off battery terminals for protection as well.
Tires
Top off the tires to ~ 35 psi of air pressure. Some people like to jack up their car and put on 4 jack stands to keep the tires off the ground and to prevent flat spots. You can release the parking brake as well. This is also a good time to look over the tires for general condition and you may desire to put on a tire preservative on the rubber. Lug nuts should be torque to at least 65 foot pounds.
Engine
Two trains of thought on oil changes. 1.) Good to do the oil change when you put the car into storage as it will eliminate any acids that formed in the oil over the touring season.
2.) Just do an oil change in the Spring when you get the car out of its Winter hibernation. Same thoughts on Fall versus Spring are also on lubing all of the chassis and clutch grease zerks and oiling any lube spots.
Remove spark plugs and spray in fogging oil into the cylinders. Clean and re-gap spark plugs (normally .035) and replace.
Distributor
Set the point gap and put a business card in between the points to prevent corrosion and to keep the point surfaces clean. Grease up disti cam with Vaseline or light grease.
If you are running a fuse please remove the fuse to prevent any possible electrical shorts over storage that could possibly cause a car fire. Yes, it has actually happened to Model As.
Body of Auto
Wash and dry off carefully. Polish or Wax. Cover your Auto with sheets or a car cover allowing air to reach the vehicle. If you use a top dressing it would be good to apply it now… Clean upholstery and put on rubber and leather conditioner where needed.
Rodent Control
Mice love Model A’s…. They get into the upholstery and make nests. They go into the engine block via the exhaust, open radiator caps, and oil intake tube. Cars have been known to get nuts and acorns loading up the engine blocks, radiator hoses, radiators, muffler and tail pipes.
Over the years people have sworn that Irish Spring Soap and Bounce dryer sheet work as a rodent repellent. We have also seen where this doesn’t work and the soap is actually a food supply. Old timers used moth balls in their cars as the deterrent. Some people state that aluminum foil under the tires prevent the mice from crossing that surface to climb into the car. Not sure on this as mice have ate out of aluminum pie tins with no problem.
There are also rat and mouse poisons. Highly recommended by some Farmers is:
https://www.farmandfleet.com/s/?keyword=rodent+poison
Also mouse spring traps, and mouse glue traps all work but have to be monitored and emptied. Careful of your pets around any of these mouse control solutions…
Some people put a wad of steel wool into the exhaust pipe to prevent the mouse from entering. Some put an aluminum or plastic baggie with a rubber band around the exhaust pipe, carburetor intake, and oil intake tube to keep both the critters out and any moisture that can enter your engine to create internal engine rust. Thank you.
END
Last edited:
OK! For 60 plus years I have done the same thing.
I leave very little gas in the tank. Almost empty. Stabilizer.
35 psi in tires.
Run carburetor dry of gas.
Remove fuse.
Connect battery charger to terminals in engine compartment. I do not turn on or leave on at this point.
Drain radiator, insert small nail in drain hole to make sure that nothing is left.
Moth balls under seat and in rumble seat area.
Roll up windows and cover car.
I check car every week or two for mice. I turn charger on for the battery about once a month for 30 minutes.
Car is kept in heated garage.
This car we have owned for 41 years. Never had a problem starting car in the spring. Car had been in long term storage since 1946 when we bought it in 1980. Engine at that time started right up after all those years. Still running strong.
We all have our own idea of how to put the old girls away.
Enjoy.
Big hammer
Well-known member
Hedge Apples work great for keeping spiders out of your basements! Hang them in nylon hose around the basement.
nkaminar
Well-known member
Gene F,
Lead acid batteries sulfate if left uncharged or partially charged. When the battery is discharged the lead in the positive or negative plates, if forget which, will convert to lead sulfate. That is the chemical reaction that produces the electricity. When you charge the battery the lead sulfate is converted back into lead and the sulfur goes back into the water to make more sulfuric acid. The problem arises when the lead sulfate is not converted because it will crystalize and the crystals can no longer participate in the charging cycle.
Over charging a lead-acid battery will kill it in short order. The modern maintainers have the smarts to not overcharge the battery and can be left on. Some have a desulfating means that will convert the lead sulfate crystals back to the form that the battery can use. This can greatly extend the life of a lead acid battery. The desulfating is done with a high frequency current that is run through the battery in addition to the normal charging current.
Lead acid batteries sulfate if left uncharged or partially charged. When the battery is discharged the lead in the positive or negative plates, if forget which, will convert to lead sulfate. That is the chemical reaction that produces the electricity. When you charge the battery the lead sulfate is converted back into lead and the sulfur goes back into the water to make more sulfuric acid. The problem arises when the lead sulfate is not converted because it will crystalize and the crystals can no longer participate in the charging cycle.
Over charging a lead-acid battery will kill it in short order. The modern maintainers have the smarts to not overcharge the battery and can be left on. Some have a desulfating means that will convert the lead sulfate crystals back to the form that the battery can use. This can greatly extend the life of a lead acid battery. The desulfating is done with a high frequency current that is run through the battery in addition to the normal charging current.