Creating a list for what to do to winterize your A

modela@aol.com

modela@aol.com

Well-known member
Here in the Midwest we are starting to see the Fall colors in the trees and are now just starting to think about putting our Model A's into a Winter hibernation.

I thought that I would create a step by step listing of what should be done to your auto now to prepare it for this winter storage. I would then share this listing with all of my fellow Model A Club members.

Can I please get some input and ideas from my Ford Barn friends here on what should be put onto this checkpoint listing? What do you folks do every Fall for preventive measures?

General areas of discussions and concerns here:
Radiator,
Fuel,
Battery,
Rodent protection,
Tires,
Anti-corrosion steps.

Please share some ideas and action items for my shared listing. Thank you.
Dave
 
- Fogging oil in the cylinders
- Sta-Bil added to the tank and the tank filled
- Battery disconnected and placed on a tender
- Tires off the ground if it's practical
- E-brake disengaged
- Make sure you're not running pure water in the radiator, if you're the forgetful type

One thing I do, because I have leather on the rumble seat, is leave the rumble seat open. Gets surface mold otherwise. Dunno if that's widely applicable.
 
Back into garage, turn off fuel, run till carb dry, don't forget to push in pop out---
There's a section in the owners instruction book about storing for the winter .
I will drive even in winter, I don't do anything different than in summer , have always used antifreeze
 
alexiskai said:
- Fogging oil in the cylinders
- Sta-Bil added to the tank and the tank filled
- Battery disconnected and placed on a tender
- Tires off the ground if it's practical
- E-brake disengaged
- Make sure you're not running pure water in the radiator, if you're the forgetful type

One thing I do, because I have leather on the rumble seat, is leave the rumble seat open. Gets surface mold otherwise. Dunno if that's widely applicable.
Click to expand...


Plus, I always pull the battery out and set it on the shelf with an occasional trickle charge. I don't want the battery carrier to get corrosion on it if the battery seeps a bit.
 
Thank you those who have already replied!

Some of you guys are awfully silent on this subject. Don’t you prep your cars for Winter? Do you store with a full gas tank or drain? Dryer sheets or Irish Spring soap for mice? I am looking to create a nice comprehensive listing with your input….
 
My list is not so much preparations for storage, but "to-do" list of things that need attention that can be done during the idle winter months.
 
I drive mine, but put antifreeze in it for the duration. Oregon winters are mostly just rain, not aften very cold compared to other parts of the country. Sometimes I ‘ll trickle charge if it’s a long cold spell.
 
The best idea is to jump in the car and drive it to someplace that will be warm in the winter, like southern California or Florida. Do not take it to the lake house in Minnesota.
 
I used to put a small dixie cup with moth balls on the rear floor. Now I make sure the car is dusted off, check the air in the tires, fill it with premium, drain the water. I sometimes put in 1/2 a dose of stabil, sometimes not. Put the car cover over it, and hit the electrical disconnect I have down near the battery.

I do try to get it out and drive it around the block once or twice, but If the weather is continually bad, I at least start it up for 20 minutes at a time, a couple of times.

I might add, I learned some things at work about lead-acid batterys. if they get drained down it's hard on them. I might add, that continual charging tends to sulfate the plates, which may be even worse. I tend to charge the battery before storing. Maybe just about an hour and a half or so before storing. That disconnect switch helps a LOT!

I have also been known to change the oil before storing. Oils can get acids in them. Those acids like to eat away at babbit. I admit I don't always change the oil before tucking the car away. New engine this year, so I definately will change it for the 3rd time this year.
 
Thank you to all of the Ford Barn members that shared your ideas to assist me with this project. All of your comments and the chuckles are appreciated.

Please let me share my first ROUGH draft for you all to digest and review. I am open to all comments both good and bad. I will polish up the final document and it will then be shared with my fellow club members and naturally it is open to all readers here to use themselves and share around.

I am looking forward to reading your posts to this thread. Thank you.


Model A Winterization Checklist
Cooling Area
It is better to top off the radiator with 50/50 mix of Antifreeze than to drain the radiator and engine. A drained block is inviting rust to form internally over the Winter. Inspect hoses looking for any leaks. Inspect Water Pump for leaks and tighten packing nut if needed and grease the front bearing. Inspect fan belt for wear and it can actually be loosened up during storage.
Fuel Area
The general agreement is to store the car with a full gas tank. Again not giving rust any chance to form internally inside the gas tank. It would not hurt to check for any fuel leaks at the shut off and carburetor lines. A top off of Real Gasoline without Alcohol is recommended. You may also wish to add some Marvel Mystery Oil or StaBil in with the gasoline for long term storage. Turn off the fuel shut off valve and run engine until it runs out of fuel to drain the carburetor bowl.
Battery
Top off the battery with distilled water in all cells. Put on battery charger and top the charge off. It is recommended to monitor the battery over the Winter months and / or use a battery maintainer or trickle charger to keep any sulfites from forming and shorting out the plates at the bottom of the cells. Most 6 volts batteries can offer approximately 10 years of life with proper running charging and maintenance. It is optional to remove the battery from the car and keep on a wooden stand. This may protect the battery holder from corrosion. Also it is recommended to wash the battery case with ammonia or a baking soda solution to neutralize any acids. It is good to put a coating of dielectric grease on the cleaned off battery terminals for protection as well.
Tires
Top off the tires to ~ 35 psi of air pressure. Some people like to jack up their car and put on 4 jack stands to keep the tires off the ground and to prevent flat spots. This is also a good time to look over the tires for general condition and you may desire to put on a tire preservative on the rubber. Lug nuts should be torque to at least 65 foot pounds.
Engine
Two trains of though on oil changes. 1.) Good to do the oil change when you put the car into storage as it will eliminate any acids that formed in the oil over the touring season.
2.) Just do a oil change in the Spring when you get the car out of its Winter hibernation. Same thoughts on Fall versus Spring are also on lubing the chassis and oiling any lube spots.
Remove spark plugs and spray in fogging oil into the cylinders. Replace spark plugs by hand tight.
Distributor
Set the point gap and put a business card in between the points to prevent corrosion and to keep the point surfaces clean.
If you are running a fuse please remove the fuse to prevent any possible electrical shorts over their storage that could possibly cause a car fire. Yes it has actually happened to Model As.
Body of Auto
Wash and dry off carefully. Polish or Wax. Cover your Auto with sheets or a car cover allowing air to reach the vehicle. If you use a top dressing it would be good to apply it now… Clean upholstery and put on rubber and leather conditioner where needed.
Rodent Control
Mice love Model A’s…. They get into the upholstery and make nests. They go into the engine block via the exhaust, open radiator caps, and oil intake tube. Cars have been known to get nuts and acorns loading up the engine blocks, radiator hoses, radiators, muffler and tail pipes.
Over the years people have sworn that Irish Spring Soap and Bounce dryer sheet work as a rodent repellent. We have also seen where this doesn’t work and the soap is actually a food supply. Old timers used moth balls in their cars as the deterent. Some people state that aluminum foil under the tires prevent the mice from crossing that surface to climb into the car.
There is mouse poisons, mouse spring traps, and mouse glue traps that all work but have to be monitored. Careful off your pets around any of these…
Some people put a wad of steel wool into the exhaust pipe to prevent the mouse from entering. Some put a aluminum or plastic baggie with a rubber band around the exhaust pipe to keep both the critters out and any moisture that can enter your engine to create rust.
END
 
modela@aol.com said:
Thank you those who have already replied!

Some of you guys are awfully silent on this subject. Don’t you prep your cars for Winter? Do you store with a full gas tank or drain? Dryer sheets or Irish Spring soap for mice? I am looking to create a nice comprehensive listing with your input….
Click to expand...

Full to the top...pure gas...not corn fuel
 
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