crank mount engage

With worn suspension parts or a mismatched hand crank bearing block, the bearing may be out of position with the ratchet nut. A loose or damaged front cross member can also have alignment issues. You can find all sorts of problems with these old cars.
 
Found the problem. The radiator was jacked up on two 1/2 inch steel shims. This raised the radiator shell up as well and caused the misalignment. As soon as I removed the shell I was able to engage the crank. When I reassemble I will try it without the shims. If the causes a problem I will take a few. shavings off the bottom of the opening in the shell.
 
All that shimming will affect the hood fit too. I wonder if the body was shimmed up in the front A pillar area and this was compensation. A 30/31 cross member is around 1/8" to 3/16" lower that the 29 radiator pads so that could be part of the situation as well.

If the frame is bent up near the firewall due to rough service, it can cause stuff like this.
 
It does not look like a 30/31 crossmember. The bottom of the radiator is different from the one in the catalog. Yesterday I put it back in place and the bottom of the radiator hits on the cross member, hence the need for the shims. Raising the radiator raises the shell which is what kept me from being able to fully insert the crank. If I shave a bit off the bottom of the crank opening in the shell, I believe all will be good. Sorry no pics, I am tech challenged.
 
Reassembled all, crank fit until I added the radiator shell. Shaved an eighth off the bottom of the opening, crank fit and turned the engine nicely. Timing now easy. Cove on crank hole hides alteration. First start after a long winter great success.
 
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