crack in block

L

Lee Mitch

Senior Member
I have 1,100 miles on my newly restored A. The engine was rebuilt by a professional builder but a crack in the front of the block has appeared. I am guessing that it was not magnafluxed. I have it in a climate conditioned shop. The crack is up and under the portion of the block that is the upper front flat part and is 3-4 inches long. Sorry I cannot describe the location better, but this location makes me think it is a water jacket to the exterior. This is a numbers matching, original engine. I would like to try something other than stitching, but will do that if necessary. It is so darn new, I hate pulling it already after less than a year.

I am thinking about cleaning out the crack and JB Weld for now. Do you suggest that I "pin" the ends of the crack with brass rod so that the crack doesn't run further?
 
Do like Mike V says and vee it out and use the slow set J.B.Weld. Drilling a hole at each end of the crack will keep the crack from spreading.
 
Lee Mitch,

Is this the area that you are saying is cracked on your block?

Darryl in Fairbanks
 

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Hey Lee,
Before you go 'drilling/mudding', I'd show pics of situation here, so something more settled can be said about how to... Your description lets the imagination loose to make maybe bad call/prognosis !
 
Lee,

Yes, this is a B engine that I repaired about Thirty years ago with 11 solid 1/8" brass pipe plugs. Most people today recommend using Steel or Iron and a Stitch method.

I have never had any trouble and run this engine to this day.

Darryl in Fairbanks
 
darrylkmc said:
Lee,

Yes, this is a B engine that I repaired about Thirty years ago with 11 solid 1/8" brass pipe plugs. Most people today recommend using Steel or Iron and a Stitch method.

I have never had any trouble and run this engine to this day.

Darryl in Fairbanks
Click to expand...

The old dykes manual called out the use of threaded brass rod, threaded in place, trimmed to within 1/8", then peened over.
 
Mike V. Florida said:
The old dykes manual called out the use of threaded brass rod, threaded in place, trimmed to within 1/8", then peened over.
Click to expand...

Hi Mike,

I couldn't find Fine Thread Brass Rod, so I settled on Solid Brass 1/8" plugs, plus it is a tapered thread, overlapped 50% on each, start from both ends and work towards the middle. I ground near flush and center punched each to set it.

Had a Dykes Manual and a hardware store close.

Darryl in Fairbanks
 
darrylkmc said:
Hi Mike,

I couldn't find Fine Thread Brass Rod, so I settled on Solid Brass 1/8" plugs, plus it is a tapered thread, overlapped 50% on each, start from both ends and work towards the middle. I ground near flush and center punched each to set it.

Had a Dykes Manual and a hardware store close.

Darryl in Fairbanks
Click to expand...

Those old guys sure knew their stuff!! :D
 
If it were mine, I'd put in a jar of the regular old BARS-LEAKS & later on, clean the area & paint over it & FORGET about it!! I've seen amazing results, using this product, & freeze cracks were sealed up "indefinitely"!
I feel that drilling, tapping, driving in pins, etc, "might" cause the crack to GROW!
Bill W.
 
Just do like Mike V says and you will forget it is there. Take your time and make sure you get it sealed when you apply the JB Weld.
 
Is it leaking?

Can you tell for sure it' a crack, and not a mold line?

If the block was stripped clean during the rebuild, I'd think a crack there would have been easily seen.
 
Yes, it is leaking. That is how I found the crack. Thanks everyone. Where would I be without the fellas on Fordbarn....
 
If you use J.B. weld mix up a small batch about the size of a quarter. Wait 20 minutes and mix up another batch that you will use to make the repair. Keep testing the first batch to see when it starts to set up. Then you know when to put the fix it batch on. Keeps you from having to fuss with it to keep it from running down the front of the block. You can also put some masking tape over the J.B. weld when you fill the crack.
 
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