Clutch Went T.U.

Jemelton#

Jemelton#

Senior Member
Yesterday I went out to take the old girl my (29 Tudor) for a Sunday drive. Probably for the last time this season, anyway she started right up and ran as smooth as ever. When I went to put her into reverse she responded with severe gear grinding as if I had not pushed the clutch in. With the engine off the gear box goes into gear smoothly without any problems, but start it up grinding starts when trying to get it into any gear. :(

I think that a clutch rebuild is in my future. I was looking for a winter project anyway.

Before I start ordering parts any thoughts on what I should look at first as I am a firm believer in if it's not broke don't fix it! Thanks
 
All of a sudden issue , check for a cracked arm on the linkage, have someone push the pedal while you watch the linkage under your car.
 
Might also pull the clutch inspection cover on the front passenger side and observe if the pressure plate is retracting from the flywheel. Along with cracked linkage, another cause for your presentation is the clutch assembly bolts loosening from the flywheel (or finger bolt backing off) and slowly separating which removes clutch pedal free travel. Be sure and let us know the fix. Good Luck.

BTW - I have not heard TU since my Air Force days - LOL.
 
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As Big hammer has suggested, the clutch release arm is prone to cracking and a fairly common problem. Can usually find originals at flea markets or you can get a replacement from most vendors.
 
Could be the modern style clutch disk has broken where the little springs fit . Some disc the springs are not securely retained . Rmove the inspection plate and with a flashlight rotate the engine to check a spring has not gone AWOL and locked up the clutch .

John in sunny morning Suffolk County England .
 
These slides should help you.
 

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Finally got my helper out of the garden so she could push on the clutch pedal while I checked out my problem.


As I feared there was no crack visible on the arm as suggested, and it appears that the horizontal shaft going into the bell-housing is turning as well.:confused:


My next steps will be to pull up the floor boards and examine the clutch housing to see whats up! Perhaps throw-out bearing?:mad:

I failed to mention earlier that when pressing the clutch pedal in, it presents a normal resistance to the force applied to it. In other words it does not seem to be freed up.
 
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Clutch pedal free play should be about 1 1/2 inch, to fast of an engine idle will cause grinding, no oil in the transmission could cause grinding. If you have pedal free play, push in the clutch and wait for a count of 3 and try shifting. I’am a believer in trying the simple stuff first before taking things apart .
 
Jemelton# said:
Finally got my helper out of the garden so she could push on the clutch pedal while I checked out my problem.


As I feared there was no crack visible on the arm as suggested, and it appears that the horizontal shaft going into the bell-housing is turning as well.:confused:


My next steps will be to pull up the floor boards and examine the clutch housing to see whats up! Perhaps throw-out bearing?:mad:

I failed to mention earlier that when pressing the clutch pedal in, it presents a normal resistance to the force applied to it. In other words it does not seem to be freed up.
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1. Are you aware that when the pedal is pressed that the crack will open up?

2. Then when pedal is released the crack closes back up?

As a result you MUST be looking for crack "while pedal is pressed" AND HELD DOWN.

If grease and dirt is covering lever you may never see the crack.

This can happen a number of times before the Forged Steel becomes brittle and finally fails totally.
 
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See red text in post 14

Also: the shaft will turn when lever is cracked but turns only 1/3 or 1/2 as far as needed to release clutch.
 
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Benson said:
See red text in post 14

Also: the shaft will turn when lever is cracked but turns only 1/3 or 1/2 as far as needed to release clutch.
Click to expand...


Thanks for the advise, I will check it out later today. Would do it sooner but 5 acres of lawn awaits it's weekly cutting. Retirement isn't all fun and games like they say.:(
 
Be aware that an oil leak (or grease) on the clutch disc can cause this situation. I've had it happen on my ford tractors at times, due to a leaky transmission seal.

Al Hook
 
I finally got back to solving my problem of the clutch not disengaging. Fall chores around the homestead have been taking up most of my time lately.
I have decided to replace the clutch release arm as suggested. what is the best way of removing the beast? Dive the pin out from the top or bottom?
Or is there any other way of removing the pin, short of beating it out with a drift punch?
 

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Thanks for the photos. Are you able to see a crack open up when your helper pushes on the clutch?

To remove the arm, grind off the upset ends of the pins and then use your drift punch. Since you are planing to replace the arm, don't worry about grinding into it.
 
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