Clutch Thrust ("Throw-Out") Bearing Lube

Earle

Earle

Senior Member
It seems that you can't lubricate the clutch throw-out bearing in service. If it ever starts acting up you have to remove the rear end, transmission and bell-housing just to get to it. Not very smart "maintainability" design on Henry's part for such a critical item as this is.

Note apparently conflicting service literature:....

The large vintage-looking "MODEL A LUBRICATION CHART" by Don Walker points to the hand access cover on the bell housing as the location for lubricating the clutch thrust bearing via the adjacent grease fitting on the slider (hub) every 2000 miles.

BUT - Les Andrews' "MODEL A FORD MECHANIC'S HANDBOOK, VOL 1" clearly states that the grease fitting on the thrust bearing slider DOES NOT lubricate the bearing, only the slider (page 1-320).

Trusting Les Andrews, I suspect that the LUBE CHART is in error.

So is the throw-out bearing "permanently lubricated" and "never" needs greasing/packing?

Approximately how many miles should this bearing last?

Has anyone had success in getting grease into this bearing as a preventative servicing measure without having to tear the whole drive train apart??

Insights appreciated.

Earle


P.S. Remember - standing at a red light with the clutch pedal fully depressed is directly loading and spinning the throw-out bearing and using up its precious service life! I have recently changed my old habbit to stop doing this - even if it takes a second or two longer to get into first gear when the light turns green.
 
Earle,
I do the same thing, when I stop at a red light I put it in neut. and let the clutch out.
I got what I think is good advice at the other forum, which was to pump a few pumps of grease into the clutch bearing/slider and oil every thing else. And that's what im going to do before I take it on the next drive.

My problem is when I first start it up and depress the clutch it makes all kind of noise untill it warms up, then it's ok untill the next 1st start of the day, But it shift's great all the time.;)
 
Ron and Tom have it right! There is a groove on the inside of the hub that allows grease to enter the throw out bearing through one of the two holes on the inside of the bearing. One of Henry's sleeker idea's.....
 
The throw out bearings used with the multi-disk clutch have the grease fitting on the bearing itself. When you lube it you are pumping grease directly in the bearing. I have never come across a failed early bearing. Even the nasty rusty looking ones will accept grease and work fine. Good thing, as reproductions are not available.

There are many very knowledgable people in the hobby, Les Andrew is one, that are of the opinion that when you lube the later bearing all you are doing is lubing the sleeve of the front bearing retainer

I thought that was the case also, until I took a good look at the arrangement. The hub the bearing mounts on has a relief machined under where the bearing mounts and has three holes in the hub. The bearing itself has an open groove in the inner circumference. I think the engineering philosophy is that the coating of grease applied to the sleeve gets scraped up as the hub slides back and forth and it is forced into the groove in the bearing. However, I also believe it does not work very well.

There were some throw out bearings made by Etna on the market a few years back that were terreble. They felt rough upon installation and in some cases failed within 100 miles. I buy my TO bearings from Bratton that are made by Federal Mogul. They are made in Mexico, but seem to be of good quality.

Tom Endy
 
Ok, I just have to ask, if there are numerous mistakes in Les' manuals, why do so many push them as the best? I have a fairly extensive model a library, books, mags, newsletters, SIG newsletters, etc. I have never felt the need for his manuals, actually they are most likely the only books I don't have. I had recently been thinking about getting them, Are they worth adding to the library?
 
Steve Wastler said:
Ok, I just have to ask, if there are numerous mistakes in Les' manuals, why do so many push them as the best? I have a fairly extensive model a library, books, mags, newsletters, SIG newsletters, etc. I have never felt the need for his manuals, actually they are most likely the only books I don't have. I had recently been thinking about getting them, Are they worth adding to the library?
Click to expand...

I gave mine to a "friend.":D (With questionable stuff underlined)
 
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Before I bought my Model A, I received some of the best advise: to read as much as you can about the Model A. I took that advise to heart and have aquired a pretty good library on the Model A. Before starting on any project on the car, I go through the various books and read as much as I can about what ever I am about to start on, including some of Les' books. Most times his advise is good, sometimes not. It is just like anything else, there is more than one way to go about something. I guess I pick and choose what ever seams to make the most sense. I am just thankful that some people have taken the time to write and publish information about our favorite cars. Some other car lovers don't have this variety to choose from.

Chris
 
Boy I will have to take another look at my throwout bearing and hub, but I am kind of with Les Andrews on this one. The replacement Federal Mogul T/O bearing I installed sure looked like a sealed bearing to me with no provisions for greasing-when you pump grease in the hub fitting you are greasing the hub and shaft it rides on. But I have the utmost respect for Tom's mechanical knowledge so I will study one that I have on a hub and maybe learn something new.
 
If your bearing won't be going in for some time, then it wouldn't hurt to let it soak in a cup of oil. I've got one in a container of oil and it's been soaking for a few years. The temp swings will draw in the oil.
 
Steve Wastler said:
Ok, I just have to ask, if there are numerous mistakes in Les' manuals, why do so many push them as the best? I have a fairly extensive model a library, books, mags, newsletters, SIG newsletters, etc. I have never felt the need for his manuals, actually they are most likely the only books I don't have. I had recently been thinking about getting them, Are they worth adding to the library?
Click to expand...

It is the single "best" source, some flaws but still the best we have to date in one place. If I rememeber correctly there is a gentleman down under that is working on a book that he says will be better than les's.

Some of the "errors" are based of different replacement parts that are available now such as sealed bearings. How much grease will make it into a sealed bearing? Is it then wrong to say that the bearing will receive no grease if grease is applied to a fitting?

Most people will also add the service bulletins and another book or two to the collection one should have.

A thread was tried a while ago to ask readers to document the "errors" in the book but it went no where.
 
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"Originally Posted by Steve Wastler
Ok, I just have to ask, if there are numerous mistakes in Les' manuals, why do so many push them as the best? I have a fairly extensive model a library, books, mags, newsletters, SIG newsletters, etc. I have never felt the need for his manuals, actually they are most likely the only books I don't have. I had recently been thinking about getting them, Are they worth adding to the library"


What is very good about Les Andrews book is that it is "comprehensive". It covers the whole mechanical aspects of the car. I have spotted some errors in it, but none I consider glaring. I don't think any of the errors in the book will lead you into serious grief. I often refer to his book when I am working on a part of the car I am not totally familiar with.

The disertation he wrote on the rear axle assembly has a couple of minor errors and it does not go into a great deal of detail, but if that is all you had available it would certainly be better than no information at all.

If I were allowed to have only two Model A books I would choose Les Andrew first manual and a Bratton catalog.

Tom Endy
 
Actually if you look they are available. Just you have to buy in quanity and have them shipped back to the US. I found numerious parts housed in Australia, Germany and Sweeden that had NORS for $25 or less. Buying them in bulk to save on the overall shipping cost of each was the trick. I payed $5 each for the ones I bought in Australia. After shipping my cost was $22. Easy to resell to the ones that wanted or needed them as none of the US parts houses had them. I resold 3 of mine for a decent profit and two to good friends at cost. Rod
 
After being away from Model A's for years while raising a family, I had to totally re-learn what little I knew about the brakes.
Studying parts catalogs was a really big help! Exploded views were great and individual parts can be studied closely. Bill W's Ghost
 
As the need to reprint his books , Les has up dated them. Has he found all of the errors? I guess I'll look when my book wears out til then It's the best reference ther is!
Bruce Davis
a400usa@nccn.net
 
Thanks for the answers on the books in question, and I appologize for unintentionally hijacking the thread. I truly respect anyone who has taken the time, effort, and expence to bring something to print. I like others sift thru information and decide what works best for my thought process (admittedly somewhat skewed at times) :). I believe I will go ahead and purchase all 3. Back to the original purpose of this thread
 
I believe the release bearing is lubed thru the retainer grease fitting on an original retainer.. This may not be the case with some replacement retainers..
I don't feel the the bearing is harmed by leaving it spinning at a stop light.. That said, it is harmed if there is not not enough pedal free-play allowing the bearing to spin all the time..
There are some errors in Les Andrews manuals, nobodies perfect.. There are errors in new vehicle service manuals.. Overall, his manuals are well worth owning..
 
Tom Wesenberg said:
My original T.O. bearing gets lubed by the zerk on the collar.

I also don't ride the clutch.
Click to expand...

I have heard from some to only use a little grease [a few pumps] on the zerk on the collar, Is that because it is possible if to much grease is used it can get on the clutch? or should you pump untill you can see grease begin to show. How do you know when it's serviced enough ?:confused:
Thank's for any advice.
 
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