Clutch Problem

R

Roland/Pittsburgh

Member
I just started my engine after a rebuild of engine, clutch and transmission. Everything is set up to specs. I can't shift into gear (grinding) with engine running with clutch disengaged. If I shift into gear with engine off, I can start the engine with clutch disengaged and all appears normal. Car doesen't move until clutch is engaged.

It appears the transmission shaft continues to spin with the clutch disengaged unless there is more drag than just the transmission input shaft and cluster gear.

Anybody out there experience this? I would sure hate to tear everything down to determine how to fix this problem.
 
Another question, was the flywheel housing and flywheel alignment checked prior to installation of the engine? The reason I ask is that if it happened to be out of alignment a significant amount it may cause the clutch disc to rub with enough friction to turn the trans main input drive shaft. The clutch should feel a little grabby while released after starting with the clutch pedal depressed while the trans is in low gear.

James Rogers' question is valid too. If the trans lube is relatively low viscosity, the main drive shaft & counter shaft may take a while to slow down after you depress the clutch pedal.

Kerby
 
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My suggestion is to remove the inspection plate from the bell housing. Shine a light inside and with a mirror see if the yoke on the center of the clutch release shaft is actually in the bosses in the throw-out bearing housing. It is possible when putting things togeter that they were not and the adjustment made to the trunion nut assembly would have been false. happened to me one time.

Tom Endy
 
Thanks for your responses. The lube is 600w to the proper level. Maybe I should try 50% STP with the 600w. The flywheel and housing were checked with dial indicators for alignment. The flywheel was within .0005". The housing was within .005". The clutch action was very smooth with no roughness or chatter.
 
Response to Tom Endy

The coverplate has been removed and a visual inspection made of all components that can be seen. All appear normal when the clutch is actuated. The yoke bears properly on the throw-out bearing housing.
 
Roland/Pittsburgh said:
Thanks for your responses. The lube is 600w to the proper level. Maybe I should try 50% STP with the 600w. The flywheel and housing were checked with dial indicators for alignment. The flywheel was within .0005". The housing was within .005". The clutch action was very smooth with no roughness or chatter.
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Who the heck ever told you to use 600w grease. Use 90-120 gear oil in there. Depends also where you bought it the clutch assembly.? Lots are China made junk. Use Fort Wayne Clutch in Indiana. OMO ken ct.
 
Had the same problem. It sounds like the pressure plate fingers are not adjusted right and they do not completley release the clutch disc from the flywheel. First check the trunion adjustment to not more than one inch of free play. If that does not do it, measure the clearance between the throwout bearing and the fingers through the inspection plate opening. Should be about .100 with the throwout bearing all the way back. Use a piece of baling wire as a feeler gauge secured to a long string so you can retreive it when you drop it, and you will drop it. If there is too much clearance, the fingers are not going all the way forward and therfore not fully releasing the facing on the pressure plate. If this looks like the problem, let me know and I will send you directions for making the adjustments in the car.
 
Sometimes with a new clutch , it takes a little use to get the "Fuzz" worn off of the facings. I would try to adjust the clutch with very little free play (but just be sure you are not runnung on the throw out bearing with your foot off the pedal) and drive the car a few miles and then re-adjust the clutch. You may find everything will be OK.

I also recommend Ft Wayne Clutch. I have had excellent success with their clutches.

Chris
 
just put in a new engine this year and the same thing happened to me. Adjust the clutch 1 inch of free play. this fixed mine. As soon as I started the car up and got it running and got into gear it will grind and not allow me to do this. quick adjustment and I was good go.
 
600W is the correct gear lube for the ****** and rear end. No STP is needed.

Have you checked the clutch arms for cracks, to make sure the clutch fingers are travelling the full amount to release the clutch disc?

I installed a Model A clutch 2 days ago and had to readjust the rebuilt pressure plate fingers. When installed the fingers were about 1 1/4" down from the pressure plate opening. I set them to 5/8". 11/16" has also been mentioned as a setting for the 6 fingers.

As mentioned, make sure all 6 fingers are set evenly.
 
Thanks to all who have responded. More background: The pilot bearing and throwout bearings are new. The clutch plate and flywheel were remachined including the flywheel step to insure correct dimensions. The clutch pressure plate was rebuilt by a reputable local shop. The clutch disc was purchased from Mac's in Lockport NY. It is slightly thicker than the original Ford Spec. The clutch fingers were set at nominal 5/8" from the cover and then fine tuned using a dial indicator for identical location.

Since discovering the problem, I have adjusted the trunnion to give about 1/2" freeplay at the clutch pedal. I believe I have full travel of the throwout bearing but I will measure this and report. The clutch does engage at a high pedal. I have attempted to smooth the clutch disc by partially engaging the clutch in low gear with the brakes locked. And I have put a few drops of wd-40 on the input shaft spline in case the disc was hanging up on the spline. None of these actions have resulted in improved operation.
 
Roland: Really sound to me like you have to re-adjust the pressure plate fingers. Mine too was adjusted to the specified 5/8" but still ground when trying to put in gear. Other things get worn, changed, etc and teh 5/8 may not be the right measure anymore. Check the TO bearing/finger clearance. As mentioned above, a piece of bailing wire about .100 thick worked for me.
 
To Ken/Ct. Thanks for your input. I plan to question Mac's about the origin of the clutch disc.

PC/SR: Thanks for your responce. I will not be working on the car until Tuesday but I plan to further investigate conditions between the components. In the post above you suggested a method you had developed for adjusting the fingers. I would be grateful if you would send this to me via e-mail.

Roland
 
Did you replace the hub, or are you certain you have a Model A hub? The V8 hub looks like the Model A, but it's actaully shorter, and if you put one of those in you'll never get that clutch adjusted.

I don't understand the comment against 600w. That's the right stuff, as Tom W. said; and don't put any STP in anything on your Model A. If everything is as it should be, 600w is all you need.
 
Clutch problem update: Tuesday and Wednesday I tried to resolve the problem. I adjusted the fingers as recommended by PC/SR. I was very careful to use a wire gage to insure that the throwout bearing contacted the fingers evenly. When operating the clutch the fingers move 1" as measured at the throwout bearing surface. This would seem to be sufficient.

The above resulted in no improvement as the gears still grind and won't engage unless the engine is started in gear as before. It looks like I have done all I can without dismantling the clutch. It may be the pilot bearing is too stiff or the clutch disc has a burr on the spline that keeps it tight against the flywheel. Even with the cluster gear half submerged in oil, a small amount of friction on the clutch disc would keep it spinning with the clutch disengaged.

Again I appreciate the help of all who responded.
 
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