Clear Distributor Cap

When I was a kid, I had a 1972 MonteCarlo. Those were all the rage. Then I talked with a guy at work about 40 yrs old. Gary was quite knowledgable about cars, and used parts. He told me "don't get one. they draw dampness for some reason, and your car eventually will not start". Sure it's cool, but only put it on for show. Reliability. I asked around, and heard the same story from other people.
 
When I was a kid, I had a 1972 MonteCarlo. Those were all the rage. Then I talked with a guy at work about 40 yrs old. Gary was quite knowledgable about cars, and used parts. He told me "don't get one. they draw dampness for some reason, and your car eventually will not start". Sure it's cool, but only put it on for show. Reliability. I asked around, and heard the same story from other people.

I am not sure you are talking about the clear or cut away, at any rate I think both are cool and could be trouble shooting assistance. When it comes to dampness it doesn't matter as they can be changed back in 15 seconds. A new solid cap is less than $5.00 - I'm going to cut one away for the heck of it and have fun.

Thanks, John
 
I agree with John, and about 20 years ago I made my own clear cap by using a piece of thick Plexiglass. It makes a good diagnostic tool.
 
Picture gluing a clear thread together over and over. That is what 3D printing would look like. The solution type of 3D printer might work. But who's going to program it? To make a few it would be easy to make a mold and cast it.

All you need to do is scan an original.
 
I remember those clear distributer caps for modern cars,well they were modern in the late 60's when I saw them.They also sold red-clear plug wires.When the car was running the plug wires looked like modern LED light strings.I had a 59 Valiant in the early 90's that still had them on it.Fun to watch at night.
 
Hi Clem,

i would like to have one piece please. If possible with "Ford"-script. Do you sell/ship to Germany? I would like to pay via PayPal please.


@ Bob, thank you for explanation.
 
The clear cap or cutaway cap are really just for curiosity, nothing diagnostic can really be done with them. I guess you could see if the distributor body had a short in it though.
Well, you can use it to diagnose when the capacitor starts to go bad.
 
The clear cap or cutaway cap are really just for curiosity, nothing diagnostic can really be done with them. I guess you could see if the distributor body had a short in it though.

Nu-Rex supplies a cutaway cap with their timing kit and recommends using a timing light strobe to observe the rotor action:
Focusing the timing light on the kit distributor cap permits observation of the rotor, cam, points, and electromechanical operation under running conditions. This kit can identify arcing at advance and retard positions. The rotor brass contact positions and arcing can be seen at retard, intermediate, and full advance positions. There should be no rotor contact with the distributor contacts; motion to each side at the extremes of retard and advance should be equal. Cam wobble and point motion can also be observed for uniformity of action. Internal arcing to ground or adjacent distributor contacts can also now be observed.

I have one but I haven't had time to set it up yet to see how useful it is.
 
Good evening at all.


Unfortunately, I couldn't find anyone who sells a transparent manifold cover. Creating a file for 3-D part printing is too expansiv. So I now tried to cast it by myself from epoxy resin.

I made the mold from two-component silicone rubber for third dentures from the original lid.

Unfortunately, the first attempt did not work. I had filled too less casting resin, too less vent holes on the upside mold and used an unsuitable wax for separation.

No. # 2 has been cast in the mean time and must now cure in the mold. I will report.
 

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I admire this kind of commitment.
Danke für Dein Lob! -




The second attempt is successful, not very good but good; there are still some tiny air bubbles visible.

The next step is to insert an electric current carbon inside with some stepped brass sleeves.

I will report back.
 

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Good morning!


In the meantime, my clear distributor cap is largely finished.

Patiently, the current lead through had to be tricky. From 4 short brass tubes I soldered the gradation for the sliding carbon contact and the ignition cable.
Sensitive was the filing of the central contact carbon alienated from a 'Walton' horn in a small square and round pin.

This is more watchmaker work than for a long stroke cast iron engine mechanic!
 

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Hi',


in the meantime, I have tested the transparent cover several times. Great disappointment was that the spark jumps are very mild and barely visible.
Joy was to recognize by it, that the condenser and the plugs resistors are in order.

On a trial basis, I increased the electrode gap considerably on one spark plug and this could be seen well on the distributor contact.

In short: The glass cover is not a toy, because with a little experience quite suitable for engine diagnosis.



Cologne; don't understand your shortquestion.
 

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Hi',


in the meantime, I have tested the transparent cover several times. Great disappointment was that the spark jumps are very mild and barely visible.
Joy was to recognize by it, that the condenser and the plugs resistors are in order.

I have a cut away side cover and was also disappointed in spark size - much more obvious at night.

John
 
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