Checking radiator for overheating problem with 1956 Thunderbird
- Thread starter zuburg
- Start date
paul2748
Well-known member
As far as advance, put a timing light on and run up the engine speed. You should see the advance.
KULTULZ
Well-known member
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paul2748
Well-known member
I believe that was stock. On old systems, especially an old radiator, a lower rating is advised, around 7 lbs. The higher the pressure rating, the higher the boiling point of the coolant. If your radiator is in good shape, the 13 s/b ok
You could be correct, My son has a Fluke one and I have the cheapo Harbor Freight one. They are withing 5 degrees of each other, so maybe I am just lucky.
paul2748
Well-known member
You can overheat regardless of the outside temperature if there is a problem with the cooling system. Hot weather only makes it happen sooner.
In a good system, overheating should not occur.
Be sure the head gaskets are installed correctly - the square corner should be in the front and on top. Something some rebuilders do not know.
In a good system, overheating should not occur.
Be sure the head gaskets are installed correctly - the square corner should be in the front and on top. Something some rebuilders do not know.
zuburg
Senior Member
Thanks. I finally have the cooling system holding pressure. The head gaskets are installed correctly with the square corners on the front. My next step is to ensure I don’t have any air pockets in the system, and if that doesn’t help, move to cleaning out or replacing the radiator. It may have some partial blockages.
KULTULZ
Well-known member
- THIS THREAD WAS CONTINUED HERE -
- MAXIMUM ACCEPTABLE COOLANT TEMP 292 FYB -
- MAXIMUM ACCEPTABLE COOLANT TEMP 292 FYB -
https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=316470
- COOLANT RECOVERY SYSTEMS -
https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?p=2154741&posted=1#post2154741
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zuburg
Senior Member
KULTULZ
Well-known member
Me thinks me tightened the hose clamp a little too much on an old corroded tube. That was never going to stop leaking.
Now that is gnarly but shows what else in the system may be corroded badly. One reason I hate worm clamps as other than appearance (not correct - gnarly) is that a big fella can put a lot of torque on one.
dmsfrr
Well-known member
The main housing is cast iron and the original small tube is usually steel.
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KULTULZ
Well-known member
THANX! for that.
I guess the repros are alum? I have seen different older styles with some having the by-pass as a part of the casting?
BTW -
That one is pretty gnarly also ...
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KULTULZ
Well-known member
I thought some of you might get a kick out of the thermostat housing I replaced to solve a coolant leak. Me thinks me tightened the hose clamp a little too much on an old corroded tube. That was never going to stop leaking.
What shape is the tube at the WP?
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paul2748
Well-known member
All the repros I've seen were cast iron.
And the water pump nipple also is available repro.
And the water pump nipple also is available repro.
THANX! for that.
I guess the repros are alum? I have seen different older styles with some having the by-pass as a part of the casting?
BTW -
That one is pretty gnarly also ...
dmsfrr
Well-known member
It's on my shelf as a leftover 'if you're desperate' spare part. The surface for the upper hose is a bit rougher looking than in the photo. It might work ok for a while with some JB Weld used for filler ???. . .
BTW -
That one is pretty gnarly also ...
.
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55blacktie
BANNED
As far as I know, only Mummert (ford-y-block-com) has an aluminum thermostat housing; it matches his aluminum intake manifold. Any Tbird supplier will have an original-type, cast-iron thermostat housing. The part # is 8592, which should cost about $50. Before you spend $50 + shipping, you might check with your local parts stores or Rock Auto.