55blacktie
BANNED
Ted Eaton (eatonbalancing.com/y-blocksforever.com) has drilled and tapped the thermostat housing for a temperature sending unit, the location of which provides a more accurate reading.
Checking radiator for overheating problem with 1956 Thunderbird
- Thread starter zuburg
- Start date
I personally would never trust a factory gauge from that era. I was convinced my '54 Y block ran a bit too warm for years until I bought an aftermarket mechanical gauge of decent quality. I checked it with boiling water before installation to verify accuracy. I then discovered it had likely been running too cool. I bought a new t-stat with a higher temp, and now it reads pretty much where it should.
And don't get me started about the factory oil pressure gauge on my '65 T-Bird that said my pressure was too low....
And don't get me started about the factory oil pressure gauge on my '65 T-Bird that said my pressure was too low....
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Dobie Gillis
Well-known member
Snake oil may reduce or seal your transmission leak temporarily but eventually it will start leaking again, and maybe worse than it is now. It works by swelling the seal which also softens it while also swelling and softening all the other seals in the transmission. Best to reseal it IMHO.
rotorwrench
Well-known member
The seals for the shift and TV control are small and deteriorate like any other type seal. They should be replaceable in the car but I don't have the later manual that would cover the later type medium case units so I can't confirm that.
I wouldn't put any sealing additives in one of the old FOM or COM transmissions. Stuff like that can affect the way the unit shifts and it's basically a band aid fix anyway. If it's just a little puddle then put a drip tray underneath to catch it until you can get a round tuit.
I wouldn't put any sealing additives in one of the old FOM or COM transmissions. Stuff like that can affect the way the unit shifts and it's basically a band aid fix anyway. If it's just a little puddle then put a drip tray underneath to catch it until you can get a round tuit.
55blacktie
BANNED
C I buy "a round tuit" at Harbor Freight? If so, does it come with instructions?
55blacktie
BANNED
Maybe the instructions "can" tell me how to type, too.
Dobie Gillis
Well-known member
Amazon has a pretty good selection of round tuit goods.
https://www.amazon.com/round-tuit/s?k=a+round+tuit&tag=atomicindus08-20
https://www.amazon.com/round-tuit/s?k=a+round+tuit&tag=atomicindus08-20
Ford blue blood
Well-known member
Most excellent! What was the "fix"?
zuburg
Senior Member
I’m still fighting my overheating problem. I borrowed a coolant system pressure test kit from Autozone and pumped up the pressure through the fill neck. It identified several hoses leaking that didn’t leak coolant after driving (I assume because it never pressurized the system with the other leaks.
I tightened all the clamps and tested again, and I thought it held pressure, so I went for another test drive and it overheated again. When I got home coolant was spraying out pretty good from that short hose from the tube below the upper radiator hose and the water pump. I believe it was leaking from the side of the hose like the clamp cut through the hose. I have a piece of hose but will go to see if I can find better hose clamps (I thought the ones I had were really good ones).
Question: Should I be able to change that short hose without removing anything like the thermostat housing? I remember it was very difficult putting it on the first time as there was not enough room to bend the short hose to fit on both nipples. I put the hose on the thermostat housing before attaching the thermostat housing. Hoping to avoid that.
Oh, and is the hose 5/8” like the heater hoses?
I tightened all the clamps and tested again, and I thought it held pressure, so I went for another test drive and it overheated again. When I got home coolant was spraying out pretty good from that short hose from the tube below the upper radiator hose and the water pump. I believe it was leaking from the side of the hose like the clamp cut through the hose. I have a piece of hose but will go to see if I can find better hose clamps (I thought the ones I had were really good ones).
Question: Should I be able to change that short hose without removing anything like the thermostat housing? I remember it was very difficult putting it on the first time as there was not enough room to bend the short hose to fit on both nipples. I put the hose on the thermostat housing before attaching the thermostat housing. Hoping to avoid that.
Oh, and is the hose 5/8” like the heater hoses?
dmsfrr
Well-known member
It's the same size as the heater hose. Remove the upper radiator hose from the thermostat housing to gain some room to work.
On these two parts check for corrosion & leaking of the small metal tubes for the bypass hose.
On these two parts check for corrosion & leaking of the small metal tubes for the bypass hose.
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KULTULZ
Well-known member
When you found the leaks and repaired, the system was able to maintain pressure (dictated by cap rated pressure). That pressure then found a weak spot (WP by-pass hose).
The pressure checker ...
... er TESTER, should also be able to test the pressure cap for it's ability to hold designated pressure. The rated system pressure (along with correct coolant) lowers the boiling point of the coolant.How old are the cooling hoses? Do they need replacement? If you do need to remove the thermostat housing to replace the by-pass hose, now would be a good time to go to a wide-mouth thermostat (IMO).
OFFICIAL KULTULZ EDIT -
1955/ Used a 12-15 lb Cap.
Is the rating stamped on your cap?
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paul2748
Well-known member
You say it is overheating again. What are the temperature figures ? Just because the bypass hose leaked does not mean it's overheating - it just mean you have a leak at pressure.
To get a new hose on the bypass, make it a little shorter that the distance between the mounting points of the nipples (make sure it's long enough so clamps work on the nipples). I have been successful in replacing the hose there, but it took some work . The alternative is to remove the nipple at the water pump, slide it in the hose (still a little shorter as noted above and with a new gasket and some rtv reconnect the nipple to the pump, then install the clamps. Easier to do this than remove the stat housing in my opinion.
The nipples on the by pass hose is one of those spots that I think the engineers went south on because they did not have a raised section on the ends to help seal.
To get a new hose on the bypass, make it a little shorter that the distance between the mounting points of the nipples (make sure it's long enough so clamps work on the nipples). I have been successful in replacing the hose there, but it took some work . The alternative is to remove the nipple at the water pump, slide it in the hose (still a little shorter as noted above and with a new gasket and some rtv reconnect the nipple to the pump, then install the clamps. Easier to do this than remove the stat housing in my opinion.
The nipples on the by pass hose is one of those spots that I think the engineers went south on because they did not have a raised section on the ends to help seal.
55blacktie
BANNED
Here is a quote from Ted Eaton: "I have not had any issues with the extension tube interfering with the thermostat. But I typically just use auto store bought thermostats. I have heard of interference issues but have yet to see it with the thermostats that I use. On the flip side of all of that, I do not see a problem in removing or shortening the extension tube if it looks like there is going to be an interference issue."
KULTULZ
Well-known member
I think Ted is referring to the possible interference of the heater control valve pickup with a wide mouth thermostat and that being limited to the ECZ-B intake as the carb pad was moved forward.
The reason for the deep pickup tube on the valve is so that it draws coolant from the bottom of the coolant runner as it will likely contain less air bubbles (coolant aeration) than in the top (in an open system). It needs that deep pickup tube unless possibly you are running a closed system with an recovery bottle.
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blucar
Well-known member
Reading through the majority of the comments about overheating I did not see any mention about the baffle plate between the water pump and the timing case cover.
The Birds had a baffle plate, well maybe I should mention that my '56 292 T-bird special and '57 312 had the water pump baffle's. Over time the baffle's rusted out, replacements were very hard to find.
When I trained as a mechanic in the early '50's it was mandatory that all thermostats were tested in a pan oi boiling water prior to installation.
I am a firm believer in coolant recover systems. I have utilized them on every vehicle I have owed since the mid seventies.
I had my '57 Bird for 45 years, still have the '56 Bird, second owner since 1980..
The Birds had a baffle plate, well maybe I should mention that my '56 292 T-bird special and '57 312 had the water pump baffle's. Over time the baffle's rusted out, replacements were very hard to find.
When I trained as a mechanic in the early '50's it was mandatory that all thermostats were tested in a pan oi boiling water prior to installation.
I am a firm believer in coolant recover systems. I have utilized them on every vehicle I have owed since the mid seventies.
I had my '57 Bird for 45 years, still have the '56 Bird, second owner since 1980..
KULTULZ
Well-known member
You are describing the actual WP spacer (8A510) as used on the BIRD exclusively?
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blucar
Well-known member
I don't recall seeing any printed difference between summer/winter stats. The factory spec is 180 on the majority of pre-emmission engines. Most people do not understand just what the importance is to maintain the correct operating temp of an engine.. Many myth's and old habits prevail.
I am not to sure just what the purpose of the baffle plate between the water pump and the timing case is, I have never seem one on a truck Y block. I don't think it is a spacer plate because the plate is only about 16/18 gauge which is less than 1/16 of an inch.
KULTULZ
Well-known member
There were generally two differently rated thermostats in this period, one rated for water based coolant (160) and another for alchohol or permanent coolant (172). Pressure caps were rated @ #7 and #14 as the system pressure has much to do with the cooling system boiling point.
The alcohol ...
... based coolant was to be changed to water and a can of water pump lubricant/anti-rust in spring. Then again changes to alcohol based coolant in the fall. Usually the thermostat was changed to 160 for summer and 172 for winter.
When permanent coolant was introduced, this all changed.
The alcohol ...
... based coolant was to be changed to water and a can of water pump lubricant/anti-rust in spring. Then again changes to alcohol based coolant in the fall. Usually the thermostat was changed to 160 for summer and 172 for winter. When permanent coolant was introduced, this all changed.
