Better Distributor Cap?

[Old Henry]

This was the inner distributor cap I replaced just in October 2015 with a new one like it from C&G. Notice how it is missing the button at the center for the rotor to run on.

This is the same inner cap bought from the same source, C&G, that has less than 10,000 miles on it that I just checked on as I was doing my 10,000 mile maintenance replacing the points on the distributor.

It already is missing that center button and several of the posts have cracks in the plastic holding them. You can see where the rotor blade is just rubbing on the bushing around where the button originally was.

As anyone knows who's done it, these inner distributor caps are an absolute pain where it hurts to replace. The entire sparkplug wire loom and conduits have to be removed from the engine to deal with pulling all of the wires from the old cap and getting them all in the right holes on the new cap and getting the outer cap to seat down onto the inner cap. I hate it and it is not supposed to be a part of the recommended 10,000 mile maintenance.

I'm hoping someone knows of a better inner cap that will last longer than these from C&G. Any ideas?

Also, the best rotors in case that makes a difference. I've been using this one from NAPA. It looks like the same one Mac's sells.

Is there a better one?

Parts Geek sells this one. It has its own button on the contact surface. Do you think it's any better?

This one from C&G looks worse to me:

 

[Admiral]

I'm running NAPA Echlin components (cap, rotor and points) in my crab-style distributor. Supposedly they're the best of what's available these days. However, I've already had one cap fail due to arcing between two of the studs inside. The one I've got on there now is working fine, but for how long is anyone's guess.

 

[Old Henry]

I'm running NAPA Echlin components (cap, rotor and points) in my crab-style distributor. Supposedly they're the best of what's available these days. However, I've already had one cap fail due to arcing between two of the studs inside. The one I've got on there now is working fine, but for how long is anyone's guess.

Thanks. This one I'm concerned about is presently working fine too but the previous one I replaced that looked like it didn't. That's what worries me. I don't want to take any chances thousands of miles from home on my Alaska trip in May. Unfortunately, NAPA/Echlin doesn't make nor sell the two piece distributor cap and I gotta be authentic at all costs.

 

[JSeery]

I gotta be authentic at all costs.

Why?

 

[Old Henry]

Why?

When I was considering restoring this old car that I drove in high school after it had sat without moving outside my mom's house for 31 years I had to decide whether to customize it or make it authentic. I'm not a half way nor mediocre kind of guy. When I commit to something it is with all my heart; and I committed that day to make it as authentic as it could possibly be so that it would work as well as it possibly could as a "time machine" when I drove it. I also wanted it to be totally authentic so that when all of the people came up to look at it and the engine, both at car shows, but mostly on the road, they could see it exactly as Mr. Ford made it. So, I've never replaced anything on the car that still works (so much of it is still 69 years old) and, if it didn't work and I couldn't fix it, I replaced it with NOS if I could get it or totally authentic new parts if I couldn't so it would stay as authentic as possible. When I challenge myself to a long, difficult, and even arduous road trip, I want to be living it as anyone in the late 40's would have lived it. That's why. Authenticity and the effectiveness of the "time machine" may well be more important to me than anyone else but, there you have it.

(I suppose there is also a little pride in my passion as I wouldn't want someone to say after I had made a very difficult road trip, "Yeah, but he couldn't have done it in the car as it was originally without the modifications he's made." No. I wouldn't want that. It's make the trip in the car as it was originally or find out why not.)

 

[JSeery]

I thought you were running an electric fuel pump?

 

[Old Henry]

I thought you were running an electric fuel pump?

Only when I have vapor lock from the modern gas because original gas from the 40's is no longer available do I turn on the electric pump. That one was a struggle for me. For some time I just got out when it vapor locked and poured water on the fuel pump to get it going again. But, then I remembered never having to do that in high school. So, the playing field was no longer as it was then. It was either do something that was not authentic (pouring the water) or give in and put in the electric fuel pump (also not authentic) for those occasions because that aspect of the actual authentic circumstances of driving in the late 40's could no longer be duplicated. I hate not being able to have the totally authentic experience, but, except for vapor lock, I do. Not a compromise of my principles nor commitment, just accepting the reality of that one unavoidable and uncontrollable change of the times.

 

[Graeme / New Zealand]

Bite the bullet and deviate for the sake of peace of mind. Get a crab set up or at least take one as a spare to Alaska.


GB

 

[Lawrie]

Send me a pick of the cap,I have some in my pile for the two piece type cap that I will never use,you are welcome to them.
lawrie

 

[koates]

Hi Craig. The first question is are those caps made from a quality plastic - Bakelite material or is there a problem here ? Who knows the answer to that ? Another question is what ignition coil are you using and what is its high tension voltage output ? If it is higher than a stock type coil in otherwords a high performance coil then it could be a problem for the original ford design cap and rotor. Another issue could be the air gaps between the cap terminals and the end of the rotor arm being too wide so this needs to be checked. Does the cap fit firmly onto the distributer body with no side movement and like wise the rotor should be firm on the distributer shaft. Ignition timing is an issue if the high tension spark is occurring either too far before or after the rotor is adjacent to the distributer cap terminal. I would try to find an original Ford cap and rotor and accurately measure distances between cap terminals and rotor size and compare to the reproduction parts. It is possible to test the cap under high voltage off the car on a test apparatus to see if tracking is an issue. Bubba could do that for you. Your cap and rotor should not track to ground like that and should last 100,000 miles if they are all correct.

 

[koates]

More on above, if the spark is jumping to ground inside the cap then maybe there is some too high resistance in the plug leads or spark plugs. What plugs do you use and what plug gap are they set at ? Lots to investigate here. Regards, Kevin.

 

[Old Henry]

Bite the bullet and deviate for the sake of peace of mind. Get a crab set up or at least take one as a spare to Alaska.


GB

I will at least take a crab type cap as a spare just in case. It will be an easier swap out on the road if necessary.

 

[Old Henry]

Hi Craig. The first question is are those caps made from a quality plastic - Bakelite material or is there a problem here ? Who knows the answer to that ? Another question is what ignition coil are you using and what is its high tension voltage output ? If it is higher than a stock type coil in otherwords a high performance coil then it could be a problem for the original ford design cap and rotor. Another issue could be the air gaps between the cap terminals and the end of the rotor arm being too wide so this needs to be checked. Does the cap fit firmly onto the distributer body with no side movement and like wise the rotor should be firm on the distributer shaft. Ignition timing is an issue if the high tension spark is occurring either too far before or after the rotor is adjacent to the distributer cap terminal. I would try to find an original Ford cap and rotor and accurately measure distances between cap terminals and rotor size and compare to the reproduction parts. It is possible to test the cap under high voltage off the car on a test apparatus to see if tracking is an issue. Bubba could do that for you. Your cap and rotor should not track to ground like that and should last 100,000 miles if they are all correct.

Don't know what kind of plastic these modern repro caps are made of. Coil is a stock coil built by Skip Haney. I will be checking those air gaps before final assembly this time. Cap seems to seat firmly without any side movement. Distributor was built by Bubbas and seems tight. I run my timing a little advanced for my high altitude driving. If that's a problem I guess there's nothing to do about it as that's what it takes way up here. I'll check with Bubbas to test the assembled unit on a machine. Rotor is a scheduled replacement every 10,000 miles but not the cap. Sure would be nice to get one to last longer than that. Thanks for your help.

 

[Old Henry]

More on above, if the spark is jumping to ground inside the cap then maybe there is some too high resistance in the plug leads or spark plugs. What plugs do you use and what plug gap are they set at ? Lots to investigate here. Regards, Kevin.

No evidence of spark jumping to ground. Cap is working fine without any ignition problems. Just replaced all plugs with Autolite 216's gapped at .025 in. per specs.

 

[oldford2]

Professor,
Do you remove the fan assembly when working on the distributor? Just wondering?
John

 

[Steves46]

I will at least take a crab type cap as a spare just in case. It will be an easier swap out on the road if necessary.

Craig, I believe the crab cap has different retention clips than your stock cap therefore you may want to also get the clips otherwise it may not be that simple for a quick roadside swap-out. Steve

 

[Old Henry]

Professor,
Do you remove the fan assembly when working on the distributor? Just wondering?
John

I remove the fan but don't drop the generator so it's not too bad.

 

[Old Henry]

Craig, I believe the crab cap has different retention clips than your stock cap therefore you may want to also get the clips otherwise it may not be that simple for a quick roadside swap-out. Steve

I'll definitely check on that and be sure I can swap it out if necessary. I'm picking up the crab cap and rotor from NAPA today and should get the inner cap from C&G in a couple of days.

 

[BUBBAS IGNITION]

I'll definitely check on that and be sure I can swap it out if necessary. I'm picking up the crab cap and rotor from NAPA today and should get the inner cap from C&G in a couple of days.

Just a note with the NAPA FA64 and FA65 cap . The rotor needs just a little bit filed off the tip when new as it sometimes hits the cap terminals. I think these are the very best crab cap you can get and have used hundreds of them . However they often hit the contacts....

On the rabbitt ear cap i think we just have a quality issue with the center button. I looked at what was laying around here today ( orginal old stuff) and most seemed to have a much better center button contact.
I hardly ever use this style cap and would be glad to make a ole Henry donation of a couple really nice used caps (orginal ford etc). Pm if ya want them and i will get them to you..

 

[Tim Ayers]

Just a note with the NAPA FA64 and FA65 cap . The rotor needs just a little bit filed off the tip when new as it sometimes hits the cap terminals. I think these are the very best crab cap you can get and have used hundreds of them . However they often hit the contacts....

On the rabbitt ear cap i think we just have a quality issue with the center button. I looked at what was laying around here today ( orginal old stuff) and most seemed to have a much better center button contact.
I hardly ever use this style cap and would be glad to make a ole Henry donation of a couple really nice used caps (orginal ford etc). Pm if ya want them and i will get them to you..

Jim:

Once again showing how much of an asset you are to this hobby.

You're the best.

Tim