I have done the foil method on two model A engines. It works pretty well, but is quite time consuming. First you remove all the shims on the mains (or most of them until the crankshaft will still turn easily. Then cut 1" by 1" squares from some aluminum foil. Cheap aluminum foil is close to .00075" think, but you need to measure it with a good micrometer. You usually need two thicknesses of the foil, so I usually cut a 1" by 2" foil piece and double it over to keep them together. Next put the foil in between the crankshaft and the main cap. I have heard it is best to start with the center main, but I am not sure it makes any difference. torque the main bearing bolt to 70# or 80# (whatever the final torque you want). Try to turn the crankshaft by hand. If it turns easy or at all remove the bearing cap and insert(remove) some more shims to do the same thing again. Once you can't turn the crankshaft by hand, remove a shim(the foil) and see if it turns by hand. BTW, the other bearings should be loose so they don't contribute much drag at all. The idea is to have the crankshaft lock up with one (piece of foil)shim too many and by removing it, the crankshaft will turn with a little effort. This should allow about .0015 bearing clearance that is recommended. Once you have one main adjusted, move to another bearing and do the same thing. Loosen the bearing you just adjusted so it wont cause much drag. When all the mains are adjusted, go to the rods and do the same thing as the mains. I have heard that the foil should not be used more than once, but can't see why not. Once you do a few bearings, you can kind of estimate the shims need and reduce the assembly/disassemble time to do each bearing. I hope this is clear.
Rusty Nelson