Babbit process question

[VFRhugh]

I bought my shim stock on Amazon. Just made these for the center and front. Already had one for the rear.
Hugh

 

[Kohnke Rebabbitting]

Herm -

If we wind-up with an un-equal stack of shims between both sides, is there a preference as to which side has the thicker stack ?

I seem to remember something about babbit Chevys favoring the thicker stack on the cam-side of the bearing ?

Just keep going from side to side, when shimming. Thickest pack first.

With .001 shim stock, you can put your bearings right where you want them.

I know what you are saying, Mr. Coupe. there was .008 on the cam side as you said, and .006 on the other side.

Most of the bearing books have .006 listed for both sides, and that is what we use for the 6 cylinders now.

The Chevy 4's use 32 on the mains, and rods use .006 with a filler plate which totals to 1/8.

Here are some pictures of the Chevy 4's, and 6's.

Dick, the .001 shim stock we get from McMaster-Carr., and we do cut, and punch our own on something like that.

Thanks

Herm.

KohnkeRebabbittingService.com

 

[PC/SR]

Yo Herm: It must give you a great deal of satisfaction and pride to put out work like that.

 

[Kohnke Rebabbitting]

Thanks, Mr. PC.

Herm.

 

[Dick Steinkamp]

Thanks Hugh and Herm.

 

[VFRhugh]

An "A" crank is 1" and 5/8, or 1.625 on the mains, So the Minimum clearance would be.001-60, and the maximum would be, Plus 1/2 thousandths would be .002-10.

Herm,
Does this look OK? Still learning how to do this, thanks for the .001" warning.
Hugh

 

[Kohnke Rebabbitting]

Herm,
Does this look OK? Still learning how to do this, thanks for the .001" warning.
Hugh

It looks like you Plastigaged with the shaft dry. If you did you will most times get a false reading.

Try it again with two drops of oil on the cap, and the crank.

Always measure crank, and not cap.

You only need about 1/2 to 5/8's long piece of Plastigage on either side, just in from the radius about .050.


Thanks,

Herm.

 

[Kohnke Rebabbitting]

Herm,
Does this look OK? Still learning how to do this, thanks for the .001" warning.
Hugh

I forgot to answer your question.

For a new crank, it would work fine, but it looks like your motor has had some use. When you get a adjusted, torque all three caps down and see if you have any hard spots in turning the crank.

Let me know what you find.

Thanks,

Herm.

 

[VFRhugh]

Herm,
I did my shimming with a bare block upside down and the crank spun without any tight spots. Out of plastigage so will continue my quest in a few days. Also going to recheck the rods while I'm at it. I am keeping a journal of all this for prosperity. Thanks again, will post progress as I go.
Hugh

 

[Patrick L.]

Herm,
I did my shimming with a bare block upside down and the crank spun without any tight spots. Out of plastigage so will continue my quest in a few days. Also going to recheck the rods while I'm at it. I am keeping a journal of all this for prosperity. Thanks again, will post progress as I go.
Hugh

VFR ? No instruments ?

 

[VFRhugh]

VFR refers to my other toy

 

[Patrick L.]

VFR refers to my other toy

AAh, OK, nice.

I see VFR and automatically think aviation.