Awwe Crap!

Problem is, if your wheel comes off like that, you hit he brakes and the cylinder just pops out, so no brakes. You grab the handbrake - that doesn't work either as the equaliser just goes to the one side. You shift down no good there either as no drive is being transmitted because of the open diff.

Just the back of the car scraping on the ground slows you down.

Never happened to me, thankfully.

I read that most of these problems stem from inadequately torqued nuts. I tend to believe it. I keep mine really tight and check them regularly. I might look at some sort of retainer, though, it does make sense.

Mart.
 
I would have to agree that this is truly a wake up call for axle retainers. For those not familiar with them I found a picture.
 

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I received a request for some close up pictures of each end of the break. I don't have the short end out of the drum yet so this will have to do for now. Kirk
 

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Looks like the keyway was the culprit. They can develop cracks in those areas that are hard to see. Either that or the drum got loose, but that would probably just sheer the key/slot.
 
Best $30 in insurance you could possibility buy IMHO.
 

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I just placed that order from Speedway...$31.98 including shipping. Small price for piece of mind. They look a little on the light side...has anyone tested these in a real life situation?
 
Check out the Vern Tardel second link, it shows a clear image of a pair. Vern believes they are heavy enough.
 
Drum retainers don't have to be beefy. The wheel is fully supported by the hub bearing, and only needs to be prevented from walking off the end of the housing, which isn't a sure thing that it would walk in every case anyway. My '38, for instance, was rope-towed about 3 miles, with 4 turns and a backwards push into a garage without knowing it had a broken axle.

EDIT: I had new sleeves on my housings. Worn bearing surface on original housings may walk like a duck for all I know!
 
Have been following this post, I got a nice set of drum retainers from a Barner for my MT brakes. Hope I don't have a problem like this, I will be looking for a spare rear end this fall.

Capt'n K, may want to change this thread to "Auhh SNAP":eek:. Scott
 
I'm sure they're fine for a rolling stop good enough to get onto the side of the road. They may struggle with large lateral loading and the rotation of the drum. I bought them so that says something.
 
Here is another drum retainer, aka safety hub. This is probably what I will be doing on my 35 fordor with original mechanical brakes since the other type available attach using longer bolt that fasten on hydraulic brake wheel cylinders. These were once carried by Speedway, but now look to be discontinued. I did wind up getting a pair of these in a set of '40-'48 rear drums that were given to me by a friend and fellow EFV-8 Club/RG36 member (thank you Bill G.). If I can't find a new set like these, I will remove these for use on my 35 since these 40-48 drums are probably too heavily worn to be safely used.
On these the small ring is welded to the wheel bearing mounting/retaining part of the inner hub and that retains the larger ring that gets bolted to the backing plates and flanges on the small end of the axle housings.
 

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The book will be here on Tuesday. Had I known Vern had a site and was selling them, I would have been happy to purchase directly from him. Learning every day!
 
The book will be here on Tuesday. Had I known Vern had a site and was selling them, I would have been happy to purchase directly from him. Learning every day!

As a matter of fact, Vern has a bunch of neat books, all of which can be seen at THIS link below. Besides being less-costly than buying thru Amazon, Vern gets to keep all the money to hisself instead of having to share with "struggling" Amazon. DD

http://www.verntardel.com/collections/books
 
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