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Hard to tell by the picture, but does that look more like "oil fouling" than carbon fouling, it looks kind of wet?

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I also run 216's
 
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billybronco1 said:
Only one real black one out of the 8
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That is the same symptom I just tracked down on the "Missing at Full Throttle" thread. Turned out to be a broken connection in the spark plug cable to cylinder #2. With the engine at idle pull any other spark plug wire off and listen for the slight RPM drop. Put that wire back on and pull the wire from the offending cylinder; it will probably not affect the RPM, indicating that cylinder is not firing.

Check continuity of the spark plug wire from the distributor end to the plug end. If you are using solid copper plug wires it will read near zero Ohms. If you are using carbon core wires (bad idea) or spiral wound wires you will find resistance of up to 4,000 Ohms per foot.

And clean or replace the black plug.
 
I'm having trouble with a leaking head gasket or something in one cylinder you might have seen my other post. This plug could have come from that cylinder, don't know. Just ordered new plug and will watch every thing closely moving forward.
 
alanwoodieman said:
Stromberg carb, so I would think too large jets, back up and take a picture of the engine head. take the air cleaner off and make sure it is not clogged up, It appears to be a dry type and the "cleaner" part of the air cleaner is a wrapped up bunch of fiber mesh just under the top cover ,remove wing nut and take it off and then remove this and see if the richness goes away
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I took a closer look at the air cleaner yes has the steel wool and chicken wire does not seem super type or clogged but it also has a fiber type material on top under the cover, is that standard? I do plan to run it a bit with out the air cleaner to see what happens. Other good news previous owner found the original carb, (at lease original to him) says it ran the same as the replacement, but I plan to open it up and perhaps try different jets and power valves and do some experiments. I will start a new tread when I get into that and sure could use some advise.
 
I guess its hard to tell how the air flow is through the air cleaner without pulling all the stuff out. Do most guys run there stock cars with the original style air clean, seems it could be problematic.
 
billybronco1 said:
I guess its hard to tell how the air flow is through the air cleaner without pulling all the stuff out. Do most guys run there stock cars with the original style air clean, seems it could be problematic.
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Many have modified their original oil bath air cleaners to accept a dry modern filter.
 
billybronco1 said:
I guess its hard to tell how the air flow is through the air cleaner without pulling all the stuff out. Do most guys run there stock cars with the original style air clean, seems it could be problematic.
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The air blows down onto the surface of the oil then up through the filter material. It is not a direct path.
 

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“Do most guys run there stock cars with the original style air clean, seems it could be problematic.”
Mine has been on my car for 70 years. It works just fine. The worst part of an oil bath air cleaner is forgetting it’s got oil in it and tipping it a little when you have it off making a mess.......Mark
 
To determine if the air cleaner is clogged, start the engine and let it idle. Remove the air cleaner with the engine still running, If the engine speed increases significantly, the cleaner is clogged. Clean and oil it.
 
I don't understand why people don't buy an AF meter/ There not very expensive and can solve allot of problems in a fraction of a second!!!!!
 
An "Air/Fuel" meter will tell you the ratio of fuel to air in the intake charge (generally around 14:1) by analyzing the engines exhaust. They essentially need two inputs; 12 volts to power them and a feed from the exhaust. They come with a special cable and a sensor the mounts into the exhaust stream. This can be done in one of two ways; either a bung can be welded into the exhaust pipe (ideally 36" from the exhaust port), or a "Sniffer Tube" that clamps temporarily into your tail pipe. . Obviously, the former is a better way of doing it, but that latter usually is satisfactory.

I have one mounted on my engine test stand. It works well, and cost about $120, including the gauge, cable, and sensor.
 
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