Jack Shaft
BANNED
I always wondered how many pancakes it takes to shingle a doghouse..Naturally aspirated engines require atmospheric pressure to move air..that air flow can still be measured.
While we're bench engineering and building, keep in mind the the fuel/air mixture is NOT "pulled in" by the pistons, it has to be PUSHED in by atmospheric pressure. Liquids and gasses cannot pulled, they have to be pushed to move. Ever try to pull water out of a garden hose with a wire hook? Just something to keep in mind when visualizing air flow.
I just replaced a Snyder 6:1 with a Lion III. The Snyder head is a good solid performer but the Lion III seems to provide a wider, flatter torque curve (by the seat of the pants measure). To be fair, I also changed to the FSI ignition at the time because of the spark plug locations. I honestly think the Lion III improved performance with better flow.
The Lion III is made to be about 6.5± compression but is thicker than the stock head designs so it can be machined down if higher compression is desired.
Also, I have a Stipe cam, a Weber carb and the cast iron header from Snyder's on a fresh rebuild. This is a pretty balanced combination although it wants a lot of timing advance at lower RPM. I made a plate to limit total spark advance to about 31° at the crank but it wants at least 10° off idle or it will hesitate.
Just some more information to further confuse...
I guess that explains the 25"hg vacuum on the manifold...
J
Only things I had to change for the Lion I were a longer spark control rod with a bend in the middle to clear the cooling fins and longer spark plug connectors.
I just replaced a Snyder 6:1 with a Lion III. The Snyder head is a good solid performer but the Lion III seems to provide a wider, flatter torque curve (by the seat of the pants measure). To be fair, I also changed to the FSI ignition at the time because of the spark plug locations. I honestly think the Lion III improved performance with better flow.
The Lion III is made to be about 6.5± compression but is thicker than the stock head designs so it can be machined down if higher compression is desired.
Also, I have a Stipe cam, a Weber carb and the cast iron header from Snyder's on a fresh rebuild. This is a pretty balanced combination although it wants a lot of timing advance at lower RPM. I made a plate to limit total spark advance to about 31° at the crank but it wants at least 10° off idle or it will hesitate.
Just some more information to further confuse...
I had initially planned to fabricate longer bronze connectors to maintain the stock look, but the #3 connector is close enough to the spark control rod that I'm pretty sure it would arc if I used an uninsulated connector there.
How about insulating the spark control rod?
Exactly! With the throttle closed very little air can be pushed into the intake tract, so as the piston descends on the intake stroke a partial vacuum is formed. When the throttle is opened, air flow resumes and the vacuum goes away. Since we're discussing ways to increase power at or near full throttle, we want as much air as possible to be pushed into the cylinders to gain full advantage of a high compression head.
Ron,Did you have to do any further modification to the Lion Head III? What is your opinion on putting one on a stock Engine? From what I understand they need additional machining to avoid pinging......is this true from your experience?
Thanks
Ron
Gene,
Is your LSH III the head from Steve's Coupe?
If so that is the same LSH III head that I mentioned in post #37.
Old hot rodder rule.. two up drafts better than one updraft one down draft better than two up drafts.. CFM of a model a engine about 170,CFM of a Stromberg 97 or Holley 94 about 170 CFM.. or as folks say, it pulls hard till you run out of cam.. there is still fun to be had with 200 cuin four cylinder flathead at 7 to 1 or so, equipped correctly for maximum performance.. on the modern road developing such pleasing low end torque is a useful tool in competition with that idiot in the Hyundai.. a model a ford based chassis can still compete in todays urban assault assignments,90 years or so later.. its funny, the purists frown on the banger types,yet we both sup at the same trough..
Winfield Red head (7 to 1 or so)
Stock (1.5") modern valves, shimmed springs
late B high lift cam
McEachern bronze timing gear
A crank on high speed babbit,horn balancer
B flywheel
Holley 94 (now,more effcient than the 97)
rotary electronic fuel pump
Ansen intake
FSI ignition with the 40k v coil
Reds 4 into two,merged to 2 1/2 " pipe
HP? who cares,it pulls my hat off on demand..
Tell me about harmonic balancers. How much they run, and why would I want one?
I've been dealing with the plug connector issue on the Winfield head as well. Any head that changes the location of the plugs will require modifications to the connectors.
I had initially planned to fabricate longer bronze connectors to maintain the stock look, but the #3 connector is close enough to the spark control rod that I'm pretty sure it would arc if I used an uninsulated connector there.
Right now I'm experimenting with the Model T wire and brass terminals to see whether I can make something that looks period and doesn't, like, fall off. I'm trying to keep the stock distributor body.
Reiner's Corner has a stock looking distributor cap that will accept "modern" style wire connectors rather than the brass strips.
In my opinion the original style distributer with the brass strips looks much better.
But if you are using a head with spark plugs in a different place, and want to use the stock style cap, what choice do you have?