Antifreeze in oil

Re: Antifreeze in oil Update

Did some checking today 1st drained old antifreeze replaced with water new oil already in and ran it for about 20 minutes. No smoke or water out tailpipe no bubbles in radiator. Drained radiator and new oil it still looks mixed with milkshake mess will need to drop pan and clean it once I figure out the water problem
Next I removed the head I need to clean it up but nothing noticeable at a quick look. I did check torque before remove and it was at least 55. However I did notice that the nuts on the right side were much tighter had to brake them with a helper pipe the left side came loose with the ratchet. head gasket seem ok I did have to help it get unstuck so the damage at the corners is from me.
The distributor shaft looks crudy not sure how they should look.
Question I have the distributor out do I need to put it back in if I turn the engine over or better question is how to set up distributer one head is installed do not want to screw up valve timing,
Here is a few photos I took right after I pulled head. Comments and suggestions are appreciated.


head1.jpg






head1a.jpg





Dist1a.jpg
 
You won't screw up the valve timing. Go ahead and turn the engine over as much as you want.

Just use your timing pin to find TDC, then put the distributor in with the rotor facing the #1 position on the distributor cap and you're in business.

Due to the slotted drive at the end of the shaft you only have to get close and it will self-set to the timing you had when you took it apart.

Steve
 
The rust on the shaft comes from condensation that builds up from short drives. You can wire wheel it off and coat it with grease and coat the distributor body that fits into the head with antiseize. Hopefully the shaft will come out of the end of the distributor. If not, then you have a ONE PIECE replacement shaft, which isn't as good as the two piece original style, which allows for more flex to take care of any slight misalignment of the head to the block.
 
Hmmm, nothing really seems to stand out. There looks to be a problem with the gasket on/at #4. Appears it needs to be cleaned a bit more.
 
That is next spot to look on my list but I will be stuck in 2013 for the next few days before I can go back to 1931;)
 
Opened the valve chamber and did see the same milkshake sludge that came from the oil pan after cleaning it up did not see any cracks. With the engine in and fenders on may not be seeing every spot. However there was no existing sludge the chamber was real clean.
Just to be sure I understand the operation I think the oil is pumped up to the valve chamber then fills the chamber until it overflows to the oil pipe that returns it to the pan and some also goes to timing gear.
I will look some more but leaning towards dropping the pan cleaning up this mess and putting it back together and see what happens. This is mostly based on not seeing a crack so far and according to the previous owner the car sat for at least 5 years with almost no use nor maintance.
Comments and advise is appreciated
 
When checking the valve chamber, check the roof of the chamber for cracks or rust lines. The bottom and back don't contact the water jacket so they won't get cracks that leak water. This kind of crack can be difficult to find and, problematic to repair.
 
Re: Is this a crack

Checked the valve area only area in question is by the dist opening. The 1st photo is how it looked when I removed the cover 2nd is after cleaning and trying to probe with a pick and it only seems to be just on the surface but not really sure what a crack looks like.


Crack1.jpg


After cleaning it up

Crack1a.jpg
 
AoK, looks like you found your problem. That's a crack in the top of the valve chamber and it looks like it goes under the top gasket surface and behind the exhaust manifold and into the exhaust port, which would explain your excessive water vapor in the exhaust when running. That's a REALLY bad crack to fix............Sorry.
 
Pressure check the cooling system with the cover off, and VERY low pressure, maybe 4 pounds and see if it's leaking, which it looks like it is.
 
You found it! that is a crack and will fill your pan every time you change the oil. I just finished fixing one for Chris in WNC that was worse than that. About the only way to fix a crack like that is with a new block. If you want to keep the car and engine, you can groove it and repair it with JB Weld. Make sure the area is clean and then clean it some more with carb cleaner before the repair. You will have to remove the engine to use the JB Weld because it is liquid and you can't put it on the top of the chamber without turning the engine upside down.

You will have to remove that valve and guide and even then it may not be repairable. I vacuum seal any crack that I repair with what ever sealant I can get but find superglue is one of the best. It is thin enough to be sucked into the crack, is heat resistant, and almost permanent. It also dries fast and once it is dry, you can pull a vacuum on the block and time how long it holds at 15 or 20 Hg inches. If it will hold 10 minutes at that you can then cover the groove with JB weld.

I pressure test all my engines by pressurizing the block to 40# and spray it all over the waterjacket with soapy water. I can find even the smallest pinhole like this.
 
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I will have to do some thinking it may be worth pulling the engine looks like it does not have a lot of miles on it cylinder walls nice and smooth no ridge at top. I pulled the oil pan and it looks good from below also.
 
James thanks some good advice unfortunately not set up for all you suggest. I do see that snyders has a test head which I guess is what I need to test block but not sure about vaccum sealing. Pulling the engine and things like that not a problem
 
Aok said:
I will have to do some thinking it may be worth pulling the engine looks like it does not have a lot of miles on it cylinder walls nice and smooth no ridge at top. I pulled the oil pan and it looks good from below also.
Click to expand...
If you are going to keep it and drive it you will have to pull it. If you don't you will have water in the oil every time you run it.

To pull a vacuum on the engine, you can get a mity vac brake bleeder from Harbour Freight and connect it to the inlet side of the pressure tester and pull a vacuum on the engine. I use a vacuum pump that will pull 25Hg inches in a couple of monutes. You could borrow a vacuum pump like one used for air conditioning service that uses compressed air but you will need to add a gauge.
 
I have a vacuum unit to clean out air conditioners. Not sure what I will do rest of engine is good but maybe not worth the effort. I do not like to beat a dead horse so to will think about it today. I do have another engine but not sure of its condition. I will have to look at it was complete engine but had bought it for parts and pieces.
 
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