Anti-Sieze on head studs?
- Thread starter Don/WI
- Start date
Kohnke Rebabbitting
Well-known member
Ya, Nick, I have always used Permatex "300" on, studs, they don't leak, and they will come loose. Head Gaskets always, and all other gaskets, especially the T, A, & B. pan gasket, and front seal, and Rear Cork. Herm.
Rich in Tucson
Senior Member
A trick a feller showed me a while ago was to use hard-setting Thread-locker on the stud nuts to position them with the proper thread exposure. Then they are torqued into the block as usual with anti-sieze on the coarse threads. This seems to work for standard compression head torque values with original heads and studs but may not work for high compression head torque values, aftermarket heads with variant thicknesses, or odd gasket thicknesses.
You must be 100% sure that all block holes are absolutely free of anything (this is always true to avoid punching in to the water jacket), the studs are the correct length, and that you can start them in the holes and torque them correctly.
It may be tougher to hit correct torque values since you are adjusting coarse threads vs. fine but it can be done.
An engine I disassembled a few years ago was done in this fashion and I was initially surprised when all of the studs began turning out easily from the block with nuts attached. Heat was necessary to remove the nuts.
You must be 100% sure that all block holes are absolutely free of anything (this is always true to avoid punching in to the water jacket), the studs are the correct length, and that you can start them in the holes and torque them correctly.
It may be tougher to hit correct torque values since you are adjusting coarse threads vs. fine but it can be done.
An engine I disassembled a few years ago was done in this fashion and I was initially surprised when all of the studs began turning out easily from the block with nuts attached. Heat was necessary to remove the nuts.
CarlG
Well-known member
Glenn C.
Well-known member
If after cleaning the threads thoroughly in the block, with a round type of cleaning brush, using solvent, and finishing up with laquer thinner, I would use one of the above recommended anti-seize compounds, with either the lead or nickle compound base.
If you are still uncomfortable with using one of those.....you can use the Permatex sealer. Just make sure your studs are set at the correct length or height, so you don't have to disturb the "set", or seal on the stud, after you have placed the head, and start to install the nuts. You might consider running a small bead of Permatex with a toothpick around the hole and stud in the top of head before torquing the head nuts down.
Even though a lot of the "FordBarners" don't like the thought of somone having to use a cooling system or block sealer such as "Irontite" in their engine, necessity sometimes has to rule, to save scrapping the engine. Product directions and logistics with quantity used is important. Why would a person use a full container, when 1/2 or less of a container would be sufficient.
If you are still uncomfortable with using one of those.....you can use the Permatex sealer. Just make sure your studs are set at the correct length or height, so you don't have to disturb the "set", or seal on the stud, after you have placed the head, and start to install the nuts. You might consider running a small bead of Permatex with a toothpick around the hole and stud in the top of head before torquing the head nuts down.
Even though a lot of the "FordBarners" don't like the thought of somone having to use a cooling system or block sealer such as "Irontite" in their engine, necessity sometimes has to rule, to save scrapping the engine. Product directions and logistics with quantity used is important. Why would a person use a full container, when 1/2 or less of a container would be sufficient.
Last edited:
James Rogers
Well-known member
Why is it that so many complain about water coming up the head studs from the stud seal when it is not possible for the stud to leak from the water jacket in a good block? The stud holes are all sealed in the bottom and not open to the water unless someone has drilled through or rust has opened them up. In this case you probably won't be able to completely seal it without some luck.
As to the anti seize, I use low strength locktite to prevent rust and hold the studs in place while torque is being applied or when just the nut is to be removed. I have never had one to not come out if needed or loosen up without turning the stud specifically. The trick is to eliminate as much rust as possible so the metals cannot seize. I also remove lots of heads and studs and have done as many as 10 blocks in one day with only 2 breaking. That's 140 studs and 2 broken, I won't say the studs were thin or partially broken since they looked good, I just got tired or anxious and rushed the removal procedure. You just have to go slow and use some heat.
As to the anti seize, I use low strength locktite to prevent rust and hold the studs in place while torque is being applied or when just the nut is to be removed. I have never had one to not come out if needed or loosen up without turning the stud specifically. The trick is to eliminate as much rust as possible so the metals cannot seize. I also remove lots of heads and studs and have done as many as 10 blocks in one day with only 2 breaking. That's 140 studs and 2 broken, I won't say the studs were thin or partially broken since they looked good, I just got tired or anxious and rushed the removal procedure. You just have to go slow and use some heat.
Hi reading this thread with great interest , can you give me any more info on the block sealer " Irontite" ??