Anti-Sieze on head studs?

D

Don/WI

Senior Member
I am having an engine rebuilt (short-block) for my "A" driver. I will be installing a hi-compression head and new new grade 8 studs. Is it recommended to use Anti-Seize on the end of the stud that goes into the block? Or will the Anti-Seize disipate after a few years leaving me with a false sense of security thinking the the studs can be easily removed some day if needed? When I disassembled the engine that I am rebuilding (it was a diamond engine June 1935) I broke 9 of the 14 studs. I don't want that to happen ever again. I'm glad I had Brattons broken head stud fixture. Worked great. Don/WI
 
What have you got to lose by trying it ?

Permatex anti-sieze is a mix of graphite and light grease ( and maybe other stuff, perhaps corrsosion inhibitors? )... even if the volatile sovent compounds dissipate over time, the graphite should still prevent seizing...
 
I personally would not put anti - seize on the bottom of the studs. It maybe tempting to so as discribed to avoid broken studs at a later time. But on the other hand if you smear anti seize on the chance you could occur at a later date when you have to change a head gasket ( for what ever reason ) you will take the studs out There is another solution 3 M has a product called stud lock this will avoid corrosion on the studs bottom and also protect the stud from corrosion and rusting and avoiding when you want to loosing a head nut the stud comes out. Well let the police shoot at me for this solution.
Good luck Gerard
 
I use it. When I have torn down an engine where it was used previously, there is a difference in ease of removal. I find myself thanking the guy who did it. Only seldom does a stud come out with the nut, and that even happens when no anti seize was used before. And besides, its not a problem removing the nut from a stud anyway. Certainly not like removing a broken stud from the block. You do have to be careful to wipe the excess off the block before you install the new head gasket.
 
Well heres what I do when installing studs.
I coat the threads of the stud going into the block with hard setting permatex,I do this for three reasons.
1 To prevent water from seeping around the threads.
2 The permatex will prevent the threads from rusting.
3 The permatex will get hard enough to prevent the stud from unscrewing when retorquing the head at a later time but not hard enough where you can't get it out.

I use anti sieze on the shank and the top threads.
On the old style copper head gaskets I spray copper coat on both sides of the gasket. When you start this engine for the firt time and let it idle for 15 minutes you may need to check the head torque.
nick c
 
Don, I have used never sieze on the head studs in many engines,even on the exhaust turbo studs on deisels and it helps with the removal of them down the line. I know i'll catch heck for it but have even smeared it on the studs going through the head, makes it easier to lift the head off later on.
 
As usual, the jury is still out. I'm getting ready to install new studs and would like to know what Henry did?
 
Take our advice and either use an high temperature anti-seize or Permatex. A lot of the new technology and engineering today, was developed from yesterdays errors. I use a thread sealer with a lead type base, that not only allows the studs to be removed at a later date, but also will seal any small imperfections in the block, that might allow coolant leakage up along the stud
 
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Peter J said:
As usual, the jury is still out. I'm getting ready to install new studs and would like to know what Henry did?
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Ford probably installed them dry and that's why they are now rusted in place and often break. Actually the original studs may have had a bit of oil from the machining process. I've never seen the process, but I'd guess oil was used during the process of rolling in the threads.
 
Glenn C. said:
... I use a thread sealer with a lead type base, that not only allows the studs to be removed at a later date, but also will seal any small imperfections in the block, that might allow coolant leakage up along the stud
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Which thread sealer do you use? I have a problem with several of them weeping after they are installed, and this seems like the solution I'm looking for.
 
Sounds logical to me. Don't want to break a stud since I'm sure I'll be taking the head off again at one time or another. As usual, Thanks!
Pete
 
IMO use any good "industrial type" of high temperature anti-seize compound that you can obtain in you area. Most of the compounds that we use in particular are formulated in Canada. Not in any particular order: Masters Metallic Compound; MMC Anti-Seize Compound; Jet-Lube Lead Seal Compound; Led-Plate Anti-Seize Compound; or Permatex "Right -Stuff No.30874. None of these products are cheap !!
 
Peter J said:
As usual, the jury is still out. I'm getting ready to install new studs and would like to know what Henry did?
Click to expand...

Old Henry probably didn't use anything, and if he did, it was either machine oil or grease. My money is on "nothing" ( or whatever oil / lube was left on them from the threading process... I would imagine stud and other fasteners were left oily to prevent rusting between time of manufacture and time of installation.


And Henry wasn't particularly building them with the thought in mind of getting things apart 50 + years later.

Your machine, your choice... I vote for anti-seize.

I may never have my studs out again, but who ever has to pull them will be glad I put it on.
 
Which ever thread Anti-Seize or sealer, you decide to go for.....use a thread chaser for the block threads. You have to remember, these holes were drilled on a gang drilling machine probably set up with 14 gun-drills. Threading of the holes would have been also with compound thread tooling, that would almost roll the threads. The stud threads are "Rolled" not thread cut using threading dies.
 
Glen:
Thanks for your Permatex ID. I have asked Permatex for the US equivelant to 30874, I'll post it when they respond.
 
I remember a thread some time ago that advised not to chase the threads with a standard tap. He recommended a special tap for the job.......Anyone recall more about this?
 
I use antisieze for pluming parts it seals doesn't rust and you can take out later. And it is priceless compaired to the price of drilling out studs.
 
Art Bjornestad said:
I remember a thread some time ago that advised not to chase the threads with a standard tap. He recommended a special tap for the job.......Anyone recall more about this?
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Art,
It was said(old barn?)that if chasing threads, as advised above, you'd better know what you're doing...else you can ruin good threads. Proper tool for the job(thread chaser) was recommended! Now, how many have run a 'regular' chaser tap down their blocks:eek:?

Don,
As to anti seize use vs don't use....no brainer...use it, but one caveat, don't put tooo much down hole so that it causes hydraulic action/problem.
 
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