Another "oiling the distributor" question

atch

Senior Member
I recently posted this thread regarding oiling the distributor in my 1930 A.

I've read and absorbed every word of it and thank all responders for their time and input. I really appreciate it. I'll be oiling using the pull-out knurled knob as suggested and apparently as the Ford factory recommended.

Now for the next point of discussion. I've been reading about the replacement upper shaft drilled to allow oiling through that hole under the rotor.

Is it worth it to replace the upper shaft? What am I missing. Ford had some very talented engineers on staff and they thought that the pull-out oiler was sufficient. Why do folks want to replace that upper shaft for oiling? I'm not being argumentative; just trying to learn.
 
I think we answered that in the last thread:
- Original bushings were self-lubricating, while replacement bushings tend not to be.
- High risk of current owners under-lubricating via the oiler, i.e. just not putting enough oil in.
 
Right. I get that. That's what I'll be doing. My question is "why do folks want to replace the upper shaft with the drilled one?"
 
Direct answer to the question "why" is to get positive lubrication to the top bushing.

If you have a lathe, you really don't need to replace the upper shaft. Simply drill down into the shaft to about the depth of the upper bushing, then drill a cross hole to allow the oil to move outwards. 1/8" should do it. Also drill the top screw so that oil can drip down into the shaft. I countersink the top screw a little to give a bit of a reservoir.
 
If your question is, "I have a perfectly good stock-style distributor shaft, should I toss it and install the drilled style?" I would answer "probably not." As Kurt described in the other thread, if you oil generously through the original oiler, you can get oil up to the top bushing. If your current shaft is worn and you need to buy a new one, then sure, get the drilled style.
 
Post a sign saying 'Wet Paint' and then count the finger prints.

Many owners just can't accept the fact that those who designed and built these amazing vehicles 100 years ago were smarter than us today.
 
Probably the best reason to change when you’re going to replace the bushings. The bushings can get stuck in the shaft making it difficult to remove the distributor. Easier to have plenty of lubrication then trying to remove and possibly damaging the distributor body from prying.
 
Don't worry, you are lubing it as Ford designed, which is more than a lot of people do. In the future if you happen to have the distributor out you can put in a drilled shaft then. :)
 
When I use the original oiler on the side of the distributor, I usually wonder whether the one drop or so that it takes is enough. That drop is so slow to drain down to the bush that I have now changed the way I do it. I use an aerosol can of Teflon lubricant and I use that small tube that comes with the can to get the lube right in there. I also give the area under the lower plate a GOOD squirt - enough that there is some liquid pooling in the bottom of the casting. I figure that will find its way into the top bush pretty quickly.
 
Post a sign saying 'Wet Paint' and then count the finger prints.

Many owners just can't accept the fact that those who designed and built these amazing vehicles 100 years ago were smarter than us today.

IMO, you certainly wouldn't think that if you drove a RHD car. It might make for an interesting thread to ask "What could Ford have done better with the Model A"?
 
I oil it when it's running as I think (probably wrongly) the motion will wick the oil around and up and down.
 
I use the red assembly lube that is sticky. It will stay where put. It comes in a nice plastic bottle with a flip up spout that makes it easy to use.
 
I use the red assembly lube that is sticky. It will stay where put. It comes in a nice plastic bottle with a flip up spout that makes it easy to use.
I go the other way - I use TriFlow, which is a Teflon-suspended light oil. It flows freely down the oiler.
 
Having rebuilt "several" dist units over the years the top bushing is always very worn there fore point gap is IM possible to maintain.
 
Having rebuilt "several" dist units over the years the top bushing is always very worn there fore point gap is IM possible to maintain.

I just rebuilt three. All three were worn enough that the shaft rattled in the bushings. I went for the drilled shaft on all three. I figure there's no reason not to have a little additional lubrication. I'm using the same oil I put in the engine. I just had my first rebuilt dist. out...upper was nicely lubed.

The designers/engineers weren't smarter, they made choices based on their needs and availability at the time. Nobody was designing for a 100yr operating lifespan.
 
FWIW: I’m also rebuilding a bunch of distributors right now, and have also found that it’s the upper bushings that wear most. The new upper shafts measure at 0.497”-0.498”. I use an old upper shaft as the guide for pressing in new bushings. 0.500” reamer on new bushings yields excellent results with new shafts. I also use drilled upper shafts and screws.

I find that you sometimes need to carefully file the offset tang to fit into the slot on the lower shaft. And once I get the flange fitted, I sometimes need to turn down the diameter of the lower shaft a couple thou to fit inside of that coupler bushing.
 
I just rebuilt three. All three were worn enough that the shaft rattled in the bushings. I went for the drilled shaft on all three. I figure there's no reason not to have a little additional lubrication. I'm using the same oil I put in the engine. I just had my first rebuilt dist. out...upper was nicely lubed.

The designers/engineers weren't smarter, they made choices based on their needs and availability at the time. Nobody was designing for a 100yr operating lifespan.

Agree. They used the knowledge of the day and lubricants that weren't nearly as lubricating as todays!
 
Back
Top