Any suggestions on where to start with adjusting the timing on my 34 ford v8? I am assuming the lack of power and popping through the carb has a lot to do with it........all the way out and work in? Or run the adjusting bolt all the way in? Is there an old reference guide on how to properly adjust timing? Everything has been rebuilt......
Adjusting the timing on a 34 ford v8
- Thread starter Rsb43
- Start date
FlatheadTed
Well-known member
I would say unlikely, Timing requires a KRW fixture , ! More than once I have been called out to look at a car were the spitting back through a new carb was because during the fix a small piece of crud has found its way into the jets ,once you pull of the fuel line you could pick up something ,use compressed air disassemble and blow out the carb .Ted
deuce_roadster
Well-known member
It sounds like you are adjusting the vacuum brake. With today's swamp water gasoline, you can back that off without fear. If you do get some spark knock, turn the adjuster clockwise.
Find someone with a Sun machine that knows how to use it. The initial timing is probably off. If you lived near me, I would ask you to bring the distributor to my house with the coil. I would show you.
The work "rebuilt" means many different things to different people. Also the quality of the new parts installed should ALWAYS be suspected of being defective. Proper mf value condensers are important for point life.
As Ted suggested a fuel issue can be misinterpreted as an ignition problem. Eliminate possibilities one at a time, don't change 2 things at the same time. That is my 2 cents.
Good luck.
Find someone with a Sun machine that knows how to use it. The initial timing is probably off. If you lived near me, I would ask you to bring the distributor to my house with the coil. I would show you.
The work "rebuilt" means many different things to different people. Also the quality of the new parts installed should ALWAYS be suspected of being defective. Proper mf value condensers are important for point life.
As Ted suggested a fuel issue can be misinterpreted as an ignition problem. Eliminate possibilities one at a time, don't change 2 things at the same time. That is my 2 cents.
Good luck.
deuce_roadster
Well-known member
Have you drained the gas tank and put in fresh fuel from a trusted gas station? Maybe everything is right but the fuel.
FlatheadTed
Well-known member
I still think its a lean mixture, a late carb ,like Ford or Holly fitted to a early manifold can feed EX gases into the power vavle ,is this spitting back just of idial .??
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Popping can be a slow or stuck valve and then back pops through the carb. And I agree it too could be lean. If it’s been a while since it’s been ran I would suggest pulling the carb jets and making sure they are clean and clear. Todays fuels depending on where you are can clog up jets from sitting. Also check to make sure the leather on the vacuum brake plunger hasn’t gone bad. That can mess up your centrifugal advance curve . I’m lucky enough to have one of the heyer stroboscopes and it indeed does make a great difference in dialing in the distributor.
Make sure your intake is tight, carb tight, and all vacuum connections to and from the manifold. Any leaks will make it run lean .
Larry
Make sure your intake is tight, carb tight, and all vacuum connections to and from the manifold. Any leaks will make it run lean .
Larry
Flathead Fever
Well-known member
Like others have said, popping back through the carb is the sign of a lean condition or a valve problem. You can check for sticking valves with a vacuum gauge.
I have a distributer machine with a flathead adapter I never bother using. It makes for nice garage art. Instead with the heads off I setup the engine with timing marks on the pulley at TDC, 4BTC and 10 BTC. Then timing can be checked on the vehicle with a modern timing light. The advance (vacuum break) can be checked with an an adjustable timing light and dwell set with a dwell meter. To my way of thinking setting the timing this way is more accurate using the actual engine than a KRW timing fixture.
For fun I setup a distributer using the method shown in the old Motors Manuals that shows using a straight edge to adjust when the points break contact. I then installed it on a flathead I had built with timing marks on the pulley. The timing was off four degrees which wasn't too bad for using a metal ruler to setup the distributer.
Remember to always adjust the point dwell first, timing second and carb adjustments last.
I have a distributer machine with a flathead adapter I never bother using. It makes for nice garage art. Instead with the heads off I setup the engine with timing marks on the pulley at TDC, 4BTC and 10 BTC. Then timing can be checked on the vehicle with a modern timing light. The advance (vacuum break) can be checked with an an adjustable timing light and dwell set with a dwell meter. To my way of thinking setting the timing this way is more accurate using the actual engine than a KRW timing fixture.
For fun I setup a distributer using the method shown in the old Motors Manuals that shows using a straight edge to adjust when the points break contact. I then installed it on a flathead I had built with timing marks on the pulley. The timing was off four degrees which wasn't too bad for using a metal ruler to setup the distributer.
Remember to always adjust the point dwell first, timing second and carb adjustments last.
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Ken/Alabama
Well-known member
You can guess all day long. The proper way is to set it up on a distributor machine. I can do that for you.
I too established TDC using the hard stop method by removing the heads and using a socket over a head stud held down by a nut. I back off the vacuum brake - discovered this back in the early fifties. I also connect a pig tail to the coil condenser connection, zip tie it to the ignition wire conduit and put a ball of solder on the other end for connecting a dwell tach and a volt-ohm meter to check for point resistance. Very convenient. Points can be set a .015”. All of this makes it very easy to check the condition and timing of the distributor without removing it from the motor.
Charlie ny
BANNED
Rs,
I can assure you if Michael Driskell or I rebuilt your distributor it is timed. Vac
brake OK with just a light dragon the adv disc.
Charlie ny
I can assure you if Michael Driskell or I rebuilt your distributor it is timed. Vac
brake OK with just a light dragon the adv disc.
Charlie ny
drolston
Well-known member
Ancient low-tech timing tips:
- First, if the points are burned or pitted, you can file them to get home, but then replace them and the condenser, a good one (easier said than done)
- Next. be sure the points are set perfectly; that is both a snug .016" and a loose .014". The adjustment tends to shift a bit when you tighten down the points. Keep after it until you have nailed the gap on both sets of points.
- Get it running with the timing mark at the center and road test for timing. Floor it in second gear. If you do not hear spark ping/knock/rattle, (sounds like gravel in a can), advance the spark two degrees (one mark on the distributor adjuster). Keep doing that until you get the spark knock, then back off one mark and confirm that it is not pinging.
This procedure takes everything into account to get you the most advanced spark that is tolerable; compression, combustion chamber conditions, altitude, gas quality, etc. The car will perform better (power, mileage) and be less prone to overheating.
- First, if the points are burned or pitted, you can file them to get home, but then replace them and the condenser, a good one (easier said than done)
- Next. be sure the points are set perfectly; that is both a snug .016" and a loose .014". The adjustment tends to shift a bit when you tighten down the points. Keep after it until you have nailed the gap on both sets of points.
- Get it running with the timing mark at the center and road test for timing. Floor it in second gear. If you do not hear spark ping/knock/rattle, (sounds like gravel in a can), advance the spark two degrees (one mark on the distributor adjuster). Keep doing that until you get the spark knock, then back off one mark and confirm that it is not pinging.
This procedure takes everything into account to get you the most advanced spark that is tolerable; compression, combustion chamber conditions, altitude, gas quality, etc. The car will perform better (power, mileage) and be less prone to overheating.
Karl
Well-known member
What is your issue with the generator that it needs replacement? As Koates said be slow to replace things - We all do it when we start in this hobby and most of us come to realize that the original system was pretty good. There's nothing wrong with 6V or a generator if in good order - The only issue I have ever had was bulb replacement when touring ie you can't buy 6V bulbs easily ( I just carry extras which I have never needed )
Your problem sounds like a carb issue to me . Fiddling with the vacuum advance won't have affected anything. With modern fuels I'm not sure we need it anyway I just back mine right off- If it pinked I would turn it in a little till it stopped.
Any suggestions on carb? It was sent out to be professionally rebuilt....I came home and bolted it on and it idled beautifully
Generator is not operating at all, so I need to have it rebuilt
Also have to have the horns that need to be rewired/rebuilt......
This car had been sitting for many years and was attacked by a very hngry family of mice, and the damp state of the barn didn't help. What little wiring is left is brittle
Generator is not operating at all, so I need to have it rebuilt
Also have to have the horns that need to be rewired/rebuilt......
This car had been sitting for many years and was attacked by a very hngry family of mice, and the damp state of the barn didn't help. What little wiring is left is brittle
Flathead Fever
Well-known member
Stick a gallon can of gas on the floor inside car where it can't tip over and run a fuel line from the can to the pump. Plug off the original line and go on a test drive up your hill. If that fixes it, you have a restriction in the tank or the fuel line. These old tanks have so much rust in them! MY dad's' 32 roadster ran perfect but then he got sick, and it sat for 15 years and now it won't go a block without plugging the fuel line. I'm going to pull the tank and see if I can get the varnish and rust out of it. Plus, I'm going to run a new 5/16" steel fuel line. I don't like how it was done by someone in the past. It also runs like a valve stuck open on it while it was sitting. A vacuum gauge will tell me for sure but I'm pretty sure it has a stuck open intake valve. They need to be driven.
Karl
Well-known member
I would vote for crud in tank as well -Had a simaler problem to you and that was what it was. If the generator needs rebuilding then of course does need replacement - You can pick them up pretty easily - You can get an alternator built into the generator case (EJ Whitney does them in 6v or 12V) reasonably pricy and some waiting time to get them done. Any competent auto electrician can rebuild a generator