adjustable lifters

So if you want more lenght why not just go SBC and lashcaps ?
Welding adding heat always gives you a chance of warping and it takes a lot of work...
 
Flatheadmurre has it.
Buy overlength GM valves, some .100 longer which is .160 longer than a stock flathead valve. Or, use lash caps.
Lash caps are great as they make a larger contact patch with the valve stem, and come in differing lengths (thickness).
 
If the correct valve machine to grind the valve stem is not available, can the lash caps be used to square up the tips?
 
Can I throw this one out 'there' and see what response we get?- OK, so original lifters are the way to go....but with a reground 'performance cam, we soon discover that the original lifters are too short. [Incidently, when I'm referring to stock lifters I'm referring to those that were designed to run with mushroom bottomed valve stems- these have a bigger surface than 8BA style] Using 8BA/chev style 5/16" valve stem valves tends to 'hollow out the surface of those early style lifters anyway, so utilising valve caps could initially seem a worthwhile thing to use? particularly in conjunction with afore mentioned reground cam with smaller lobes. This make sense? Anyone done this? Is it do-able?
Just conjecture, but thought I'd ask.
 
Its all down to what youre chasing...are you gonna run the engine doing 5500rpm all day or cruising down the street.

When starting to chase every bit of weight off the moving parts in the valves a lashcap weighs more then a longer stem.

For a stock or mild engine 8BA or early hollow lifters aint gonna make or break the deal and most people arent putting to many miles on the engines wearing them out.

There used to be ready to go valves...

Manley compared to stock valve.
 

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Flatheadmurre has it.
Buy overlength GM valves, some .100 longer which is .160 longer than a stock flathead valve. Or, use lash caps.
Lash caps are great as they make a larger contact patch with the valve stem, and come in differing lengths (thickness).

Where can you get different length lash caps?

I bought manley valves and lash caps.
10721-8 or 11521-8 and 42104-16 plus 13127-16
But the lash caps hit the valve locks .......
Doesnt seem correct to me.
I didnt email manley....

Is this normal?
 
Where can you get different length lash caps?

I bought manley valves and lash caps.
10721-8 or 11521-8 and 42104-16 plus 13127-16
But the lash caps hit the valve locks .......
Doesnt seem correct to me.
I didnt email manley....

Is this normal?

Hi Mickey, in my post above I had mentioned the caps as adding .060", it's actually more like .080". I took the .060" from memory but is definitely closer to .080".

There are different length's available, we buy them in bulk, by the hundreds, but the most common are close to .210" deep. Our shallow pieces are .145". See the photo below!

In most conventional builds we've never needed the shorter lash caps. If you are using the '51 to '53 valves you will need the short pieces, this application has the keeper grooves down .200". The grooves in the earlier valves are down .260".

I don't have any original vendor part numbers for the caps, exception for Comp Cams, which are the longer pieces. We buy the shorter ones through a friend by the dimensions.

Thanks, Gary in N.Y.

P.S. Here's a shot using a few "coins" to show the differences, the taller caps are next to 3 nickels, the shorter, next to 2 pennies!
 

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What I don't understand is why are youse guys worried about lifter weight. Back in the day we ran 9N solid lifters and ran 5K with no problem. Unless your planning on running Hi Revs for long perion of time, (track racing) (200MPH Bville runs) why not just use an adj lifter, or just weld up the stems. Fors mad different length lifters and stock chevy valves get them pretty close. I use them with adj lifters and that keeps the thread length of the lifter very short. Street engines very rarely see 4K.
However this has been an exelent educational way of increasing the cost of building a flathead.
 
What I don't understand is why are youse guys worried about lifter weight. Back in the day we ran 9N solid lifters and ran 5K with no problem. Unless your planning on running Hi Revs for long perion of time, (track racing) (200MPH Bville runs) why not just use an adj lifter, or just weld up the stems. Fors mad different length lifters and stock chevy valves get them pretty close. I use them with adj lifters and that keeps the thread length of the lifter very short. Street engines very rarely see 4K.
However this has been an exelent educational way of increasing the cost of building a flathead.

Love your response Ron!
 
Just a matter of wear of the cam to me...heavy valvetrain takes a serious valvespring to keep it in order...that will kill the cam early.

Light valve train and a modest spring...longer camlife.

But i might be way off as usual..:o
 
Here's a little tip that helps on this thread, there are 2 length of stock lifters, all the stock lifters up to I think 51 Ford are 1.720 length, the 52-53 EAB engines and the 49-53 Merc engines the lifters are 1.750, Usually with Chev valves and 1.750 lifters you'll have enough meat to butt grind stems with performance cams. Walt
 
Cool tip! so where does one purchase nos lifters @ 1.75" long? I'd buy them and use them, but alas, they are made of unobtainium.
 
Cool tip! so where does one purchase nos lifters @ 1.75" long? I'd buy them and use them, but alas, they are made of unobtainium.

There pretty hard to find, new old stock, a few years ago a friend found a set from for a vender on the barn, I think it was Dick Saprdaro, I save all the old ones I get from junk engines, there are guys on the barn that reface them, Pete for one. Walt
 
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