A-V8 Roadster

X38 said:
Well, I guess you know it all Deuce Man. Why the hell you bothered asking questions beats me. Several people have suggested you get a particular book that covers all the ins and outs about these things, including suggested different ways of doing things. But no, you throw it back in our faces and want people to drip feed you instead.

Some attitude.
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yeah didnt make much sence askin questions if you have been doing it forever like Vern.its a good book for info,i just built my first AV8 and i did refer to the book for a few things..like setting up the basic chassis.and my car looks nothin like the BT roadster.the book isnt a blue print just a good tool.
 
flatheadA said:
I used a 39 rear end and torque tube,I did cut the tube and the drive shaft,(did not want to go with open drive shaft),also cut the rear wishbones.I'm not done with the build yet(5 years)so I can't tell you how well it will work. Like hotrodvideo said the bishop / tardel book is an excellent investment.As you will read in the book,I did not box the frame.I guess I'll see how that works out this spring when I have it finished.
Menno
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flathead i am driveing mine went by the book all the way almost i did not change windshield
 
This thread is old, but I figured I would show the roadster I was working on. My brother bought it from me and finished it up and got it on the road. He is continuing to do body work and will eventually paint it







 
rotorwrench said:
The Bishop/Tardel book addressed this by cutting off the F1 frame mount flange and welding on a model A flange after adjusting for a workable length on the sector shaft part of the housing. Vern Tardel also has a little book published that gives good info on both the F1 and F100 box modification for the early Ford conversions and it's available from his web-site.

On the frame boxing, there is a lot of variables about whether to box or not. I have seen some frames that are so rusty at the old 4-banger rear motor mounts that they either have to be patched there or boxed or both. This was an area that got fatigued from years of service and corroded to boot. If the frame breaks there, which has been known to happen, it will kill your ability to steer the car due to the location of the side steer box. If it happens at high speed a person would be lucky to survive it. A fella just has to look it over real well, scratch his head, and decide for himself if he wants to box that area. Its a must if you use a heavier 200+ HP overhead valve engine in there.

Kerby
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I shortened the steering box by pushing the two bushings together, leaving enough material to hold a very small seal, cut off end of box. Made a piece of 3/8" plate to fit the frame as a flange... Chamfered for a weld, and preheated parts, used nickel rod to weld 3/8" plate to box.

Still, not a lot of room for the rear exhaust outlet.

Karl
 
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