A timing for idiots! (This is I)

[msmaron]

used it and loved it... it is fast and easy and great when you are not sure and need a fast timing on the go!

 

[William Kelchner]

Ok what is the difference between an "A" cam and a "B" cam?

 

[1931 flamingo]

The amount of dwell I believe. This is the cam inside the dist that the points ride on.
Paul in CT

 

[msmaron]

take a look at the restorer from last month, great article on your very question

 

[BILL WILLIAMSON]

Yo, Family,
I'll be repetitive, but hang with me, please. "ACID TEST" to know if timing is "dead correct: (stock dist.)
1. Spark up=smooth, Tada, Tada,Tada,Tada.
2. Spark 1/2 way= faster, smooth idle.
3. Spark full down= faster idle still, but a "rolling" idle.
Now to explain something that worked for me. We know that the "gripping" areas under the distributor cam is not in a regular detent pattern, but in a "diamond" crossshatch pattern.
After setting my timing, it was a little too fast, needed to turn cam clockwise a trifle. Without loosening the cam screw, pulled cam with cam wrench, "click," as if it had regular detents (screw was still tight) fired up, timing was perfect!
My "theory" is that when cam screw is "bottomed" out to the shaft, the lockwasher is NOT completely collapsed, allowing the cam to lift slightly with the aid of the tool. (screw still tight)
Haven't tried it again to see if this works consistently, or if it was just a "FLUKE!"
If this works consistently, it would make it EASY to make "minor" timing corrections.
ANYONE TRIED THIS??? Bill W.

 

[wrndln]

I have been trying to start my newly rebuilt engine for a couple of days. I though I had it timed correctly with the leading edge of the rotor just over #1 distributor contact. It would fire and run for a second or two than die. I saw Purdy Swoft's post where he said he sets the TRAILING edge of the rotor over the distributor contact. I contacted Purdy through some PM's to make sure I understood how he set the timing. He was gracious in explaining it to me in a little more detail. I tried it today and like magic, the engine fired right up and ran fine. I am a convert to Purdy's method of timing. Thanks again Purdy.
Rusty Nelson

 

[Fred K-OR]

Just got back from our 110 mile run down to a auto museum and the timing job with the Nu-Rex worked like a charm. Did 45-55 MPH most of the way on a stock engine and not Mitchel without any problems.

But I can see where a person needs to know other methods of timing so that if they are on a tour and they need to re time their rig and do not have the tool, you need to know how to do it. So I guess I better get the old brain working and do some practicing on how to time by just setting the rotor with the contact.

Thanks again for all the ideas. Hope this has help others in the process of doing a timing on their rigs.

 

[Purdy Swoft]

Thanks Rusty, Its good to know that I could be of help.

 

[RonC]

Yo, Family,
I'll be repetitive, but hang with me, please. "ACID TEST" to know if timing is "dead correct: (stock dist.)
1. Spark up=smooth, Tada, Tada,Tada,Tada.
2. Spark 1/2 way= faster, smooth idle.
3. Spark full down= faster idle still, but a "rolling" idle.
Now to explain something that worked for me. We know that the "gripping" areas under the distributor cam is not in a regular detent pattern, but in a "diamond" crossshatch pattern.
After setting my timing, it was a little too fast, needed to turn cam clockwise a trifle. Without loosening the cam screw, pulled cam with cam wrench, "click," as if it had regular detents (screw was still tight) fired up, timing was perfect!
My "theory" is that when cam screw is "bottomed" out to the shaft, the lockwasher is NOT completely collapsed, allowing the cam to lift slightly with the aid of the tool. (screw still tight)
Haven't tried it again to see if this works consistently, or if it was just a "FLUKE!"
If this works consistently, it would make it EASY to make "minor" timing corrections.
ANYONE TRIED THIS??? Bill W.

Hi Bill, I checked this on an original NOS shaft, cam, washer and lock washer and the screw does not bottom out. If the design was to use the detents, then there would be detents on the shaft collar too. I would be afraid that you run the risk of bending the tab or slot of the coupling where the two shafts meet. You should loosen the cam screw just enough that you can turn the cam with some resistance but using only your fingers to turn not a tool.