A timing for idiots! (This is I)

Fred K-OR

Fred K-OR

Well-known member
Timing of my A's for me has been a real hit and miss situation. I have one distributor that has an "A" cam and the rest seem to be "B" cams. Thus when I try to figure out when the cam should be on number 1 cylinder when it is set right, for me it is a "guesstimate". I know others know more about this than I do.

But I found the solution for me, the A idiot! It is the Nu-Rex Nu-wrench for setting your cam at the proper place. I am not trying to sell this thing, only being a user. But I thought maybe some of you may want to know about this thing. It does work, at least for me.

Here is the web site for Nu-Rex where you can buy it. Just go down to the Timing section and click on Nu-Rex Nu-wrench. They sell it for $9.75.
http://www.nurex.com/list_products.asp

Most of the parts houses also sell it for about the same price. Bratton's price is also $9.75.

Again I am just giving my experiences with this tool and I am not trying to sell the thing. Just passing on info that I found useful for me.
 
Ok, that is great if it makes you feel like you can conquer the world, then by all means it is a small price to pay for the lack of stress. To me this really ain't that hard to do and I can ususally have customer's doing it within a time or two of showing them the process. Just whatever makes someone feel comfortable and everyone has their own way.

If someone does not have that tool, may I suggest they start with the points gap and make sure that all four lobes are opening the same gap. This is critical. Next, make sure there is not excessive "slop" in the distributor drive gear or in the housing bushings. If so, this also needs to be corrected to ensure success in setting the timing.

Next, with the point gap all the same, roll the engine over to TDC by using the pin against the timing gear. Once that is established, then retard the spark lever to full-retard. Then just loosen the dist. cam screw enough where it can be rotated with slight resistance when the dist. rotor is installed. As you rotate it counter-clockwise, if the ignition switch is on, just as the points break, the coil will spark. You can rotate the dist. rotor back-and-forth to establish the exact location. Then lock down the dist. cam screw and you should be set.

Now where I think this always causes troubles for some folks is because of the distributor cap slot where the base plate arm protrudes. If the slot is too wide (non-original cap as generally detected by having more than two notches) it will allow the operator to over-retard or over-advance the timing by the Spark lever. Again, everyone has their preferred way of doing things and I guess this is like putting gas in the tank. Are you supposed to stand on the Left side of the car, --or the Right side of the car with the gas nozzle as you fill the tank?
 
I've tried using the Nu Rex tool and it works ok. However I still don't thing its as good as the Marco/Brent way of doing it. My judgement is based on how the car runs after its been timed using each method .
Once you've timed them a few zillion times you get to know how they sound when they are right. Although I'm far from musical ( as my buddies in our high school rock band would testify) its almost a musical ear type thing .

Its my understanding that a B cam or an A cam in the distributor is not going to affect timing at all. The difference being the gradient on the lobes of the B cam is surposed to give a hotter spark.
 
Keep In Mind, that the "Brent/Marco" Method is NOT the same as the Les Andrews method.

The Brent/Marco method sets the points per the Ford Service Bulletin, the Les Andrews methos gives extra retard to the setting over the Ford Service method.

Marc
 
I set the points 95% like Brent does but with one difference. I let the distributor top lay against #10 head stud so I can get a spark. I retard the lever using the body after determining the point gap is correct at .020 and all lobes are the same. I rotate the engine to TDC using the timing pin in the cover when it falls into the dimple. I then loosen the screw in the cam and rotate the cam till the notch is pointed toward the right front headlight and the bumper on the points is just touching the cam lobe. I turn on the ignition and move the lever down till I hear a snap of the spark. More than 2 cliks and I start over by loosening the cam and move it a touch closer to the bumper on the points. I time every motor I run on my stand and lots for others that have trouble with timing.

Just seems simple to me but, flying a jet seems simple to the pilot I guess.
 
James R.

Curious....why do you set the timing in your way, rather than have the points "break" with the lever all the way up ?

Wouldn't your method give more "retard" ? I always thought that 0 degree's should be at "lever up" position.

Marc
 
I try to get the points to break on the first notch. Just the way I do it. I guess I figure you gotta start somewhere and the first clik is it.
 
Thanks guys for all the comments. A subject like this I guess has a number of answers based on the abilities of the person doing the timing. Like I mentioned, I am new at this game of timing and have tried the Marco and Andrews methods. I find that using the wrench helps me not only to get the cam set at least close to what it should be and holds the cam so I can get it tighten. So this is the reason I mentioned the tool-it works for an idiot (on this subject) like me and I thought maybe some other people may find it useful.

I know many of you have done service on A's for many years-many more years than I have. And I know a person can get a "feel" for when the A is running correctly or not-I am getting there as far as "feeling" the mood of the A. I knew (by the feel of it running) my huckster was not timed correctly so that is what started this discussion. I appreciate all the comments which are very helpful and I am sure a number of other people will find them useful also.
 
IMO The beauty of the NuRex is that it takes the "slop" out of e/thing and you don't introduce any while tightening the cam screw (after finding the dimple and setting the points, lever retarded).
Paul in CT I purchased this tool about 2 years ago and love it.
 
Whether or not you use the "NuRex" instrustions as to how to time the engine, the tool itself is (IMHO) a useful tool, just as Flamingo states.
 
I dont know why so many seem to have a problem timing an A. I was shown how when I was 15 and its so simple.You sure dont need cam wrenches & timing lites etc.& if you want to fine tune the timing,you have the spark lever for that.
 
I found out! that you may think you are right on , by placing rotor in your right place . YOU ARE WRONG . do this with proper timing light and you will be suprised. Most people will only notice this if they drive above 55 -- 60 mph
 
The idea is to have the points separate or "break" just as the number one piston reaches it's top dead center with the spark all the way up. Turning the rotor to the number one body contact only gets you to the correct cam lobe for the points to open on. There is a little rotational play in the cam. You have to "trial and error" rotate and retighten the cam to get it to break the points with the slightest counterclock wise motion. There are a lot of factors that affect timing and operation that should be addressed first such as 20 degrees of motion for advancing the upper plate, a dist body and rotor with the proper notch openning and acceptable contact gaps, a good cam within Ford spec, correctly cleaned and gapped points, an upper plate that has no slop in dist. casting groove, a good dist ground etc.
 
Timing is important if you want maximum power and a cooler running engine. I agree with Fred K. ,the Nu Rex cam wrench is a handy tool. I also agree with Flamingo and CarlG , whether you follow the instructions or not the tool is great for holding the cam in place, while tightening the cam screw. Here is how I set the timing in my model A's. Being as too little points gap retards the timing, I always set the points gap at .022 first. I don't set the timing by the points so it doesn't matter about the spark lever or looking for a spark at the points. Where the rotor tip points is what is important to me. When the timing pin drops in place I set the rotor tip so that the trailing edge points at the number one spark plug wire contact in the dist. cap body with NO clockwise backlash after tightening the cam screw. I feel that less experienced model A mechanics will end up with clockwise backlash when trying to set the timing by the points. My method gives the fastest timing that you can get by with without starter kickback after warm up.This setting gives that good chick ah lunk sound when idleing with the spark retarded. The spark lever can be used to control timing knock or buck at low speed or if in a strain. I don't have problems because I don't creep along and lug the engine. I don't say any of this to be disagreeable, this is just my way and it works great for me.
 
I use Purdy Swoft's method, and it work's great for me, I've tried all the rest.
Swoft's is by far the most simple [for me] and the quickest. ;)
 
Used the NU-REX tool yesterday to get the old huckster in time along with new W18 plugs. It stopped raining here in Oregon today, so took it out for a spin. Drove about 15 miles, most of it at 45 to 50 MPH, and the old rig worked great.

Again not saying this tool is for everybody but for me who does not have much experience with this sort of thing, it did the job. I have tried some of the other methods mentioned, but could never get the old thing in time. Mainly because I did not know what I was doing. But this tool (if used correctly) does the job for this guy.
 
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