8BA Oil Filter Options

AKCJ said:
Hmmm. 20 + 10 + 5 does not equal 40. Good diagram but the math doesn't quite work.
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I don't think this is the intention of the diagram. I take it as illustrating the size proportions of each e.g. the 20 micron diameter is half that of the 40 micron.
 
I think the original By-pass sistem is better than nothing. However, on all the engines I rebuild I convert to tje full flow system, and a Wicks filter. Another miss conception is oil pressure, Hi Oil pressure creates heat and can damage the bearings, 10 20 lbs is more than adequate for normal driving. Bearings need flow to keep them cool.
Gramps
 
38convsedan said:
51 Merc: Where did you find the bypass kit in your photo?
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Amsoil does not have a bypass 'kit' for just flatheads.
There are just two Amsoil components used in this setup, the filter and the filter mount.
In this thread, read post #3 and post #7 for pertinent information.
Search Amsoil for availability of components.
 
Got to go along with the wiser heads here (stock bypass system).
For 35 years (since a rebuild) it has always had on oil/filter change annually. I consider it a pretty well tuned engine but the filter housing always has dirty oil/goo in it.
The oil out of the crankcase looks a lot better.
 
One other thought,
The term "full flow" is a misnomer. Depends on which filter you would use. The old GMs had a block bypass. Ford and most Chrysler filters had a internal bypass valve. So does may Rodney Racer applications.
 
I acquired a brand new Fram orange painted oil filter canister that bolts to the head bolts if anyone is interested in buying. It’s NOS in the original box. I don’t even remember why I have it, as I’ve already got one on my ‘40.

mikemead@charter.net

Thx……Mike
 
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