8BA Oil Filter Options
- Thread starter Choptop
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chap52
Well-known member
I purchased a full flow system from Hot Rod and Custom Supply (no longer in business?) years ago. It was at that time also available from Motor City Flatheads, Full-Flow Oil Filter Kit (PN MCF-90-OFK). It consisted of a high flow melling type pump which requires a hole to be drilled in the side of the pan so oil flowed from pump to filter ( Hastings 115) and back into rear of block where oil pressure sender is located. Has worked great.
More info in Frank Oddo's book, Ford Flathead Builder's Handbook.
More info in Frank Oddo's book, Ford Flathead Builder's Handbook.
The stock Ford bypass oil filter system does work really well, it filters out much smaller stuff than a regular "full flow" filter. Proof of what it filters out can readily found in the filter can. You can feel how quickly the can warms up when running, proof of how much oil goes through it.
Much, much better than no filter, if you changed oil every 1000 miles, the stuff that would have been caught by the filter could have been circulating around the engine, doing all its damage to bearings and such, for up to a thousand miles!
Does that sound like a good idea?
As you can see, I like the Ford bypass system, easy to fit, reliable as you like, worked well for millions of miles.
If you want a full flow or nearly full flow. Then fit it, though it must be done with the engine stripped for rebuild, due to the invasive factor of the job. A bypass system can be added at any time with a wrench.
You chose.
You wouldn't catch me changing oil at a 1000 miles in a touring or regular use vehicle. That's why I go for the bypass.
Martin.
Much, much better than no filter, if you changed oil every 1000 miles, the stuff that would have been caught by the filter could have been circulating around the engine, doing all its damage to bearings and such, for up to a thousand miles!
Does that sound like a good idea?
As you can see, I like the Ford bypass system, easy to fit, reliable as you like, worked well for millions of miles.
If you want a full flow or nearly full flow. Then fit it, though it must be done with the engine stripped for rebuild, due to the invasive factor of the job. A bypass system can be added at any time with a wrench.
You chose.
You wouldn't catch me changing oil at a 1000 miles in a touring or regular use vehicle. That's why I go for the bypass.
Martin.
Cecil/WV
Well-known member
I used to think the by pass filter didn't do much, but then why does it get so dirty if not? I really changed my mind when I started dealing with diesel engines. The factory filter on a Detroit 8-71 will not keep the oil from turning really black, caused by soot, but installing a 5 gal. Harvard by pass filter will keep the oil super clean for as long as the filter can still function without plugging up, maybe 50 to 100,000 miles and regular monitoring by way of oil anylsis on a regular basis in a lab.
You can tell when the bypass filter is getting dirty by checking the temp on the filter housing from time to time.
You can tell when the bypass filter is getting dirty by checking the temp on the filter housing from time to time.
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Yes my truck was previously set up with the bee hive style system mounted above the drivers side head of the motor. According to Speedway i should use AC Delco PF2 or Fram HP1.
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The part number of my bracket i bought is Part # 7201045. Then just below it says to order the bypass adaptor. Which im confused by. Never noticed that before! Where the heck is that supoose to go? Or i suppose that is to screw on to where the old filter was located (which obviously flatheads didnt have) so in reality i am fine and dont need that part of their system.
tubman
Well-known member
I was trying to make a point with sarcasm. Sometimes it doesn't work. Sorry.NICE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Here is what I do know. Along with many others here, I have a high opinion of the original Ford bypass filtration system. In my opinion, given the way these vehicles are used these days, it may be superior to a full flow system. When was the last time you drove your car down a dirt road, or across a field like they did in the old days? This, along with the almost clinical storage and meticulous maintenance given almost all of these cars now, I consider the bypass filtration system to be completely adequate.
A few facts about by-pass filters. I can not find any information about the original Ford system, but I did find information on a comparable system offered currently by Amsoil. This is a system offered for "pleasure vehicles and light trucks'. Their system will "process all of the oil in a 5 quart sump in 10 minutes". The filter medium is fine enough to trap particles as small as 3 microns. A full flow filter, on the other hand will trap particles only down to 30 microns. Let's assume the worst possible case in which the stock Ford system is only 1/2 as efficient as the modern Amsoil system. What would you rather have ? All of the oil filtered every 20 minutes for particles larger than 3 microns (bypass), or all of the oil filtered every 2 minutes for particles larger that 30 microns (full flow)? Given the conditions under which my car is operated, the choice is easy for me.
As to removing the bypass filter as some have done, it is to me pure folly. For some reason, there are those out there that think there is "something wrong" with the stock Ford system so it is beneficial to remove it, Nothing could be more wrong. Almost all over the road trucks and most stationary power plants have an auxiliary bypass filter system with oil change intervals of around 100,000 miles, as noted by Cecil above. Over the years, I have found that the factory designers and engineers, even back in the 40's and 50's knew exactly what they were doing.
JSeery
Member Emeritus
I would have some concerns with these filters. For starters they are not by-pass filters, they are racing filters. They are built for high burst strength and high flow rates.
JSeery
Member Emeritus
As I stated in my last post, these are not by-pass filters and it appears that this bracket (7201045) is not a by-pass setup without an adapter. Need to be carful that you end up with what you need. There are by-pass spin-on filters but this setup does not use them, so need to be sure there is a by-pass restrictor in there somewhere!! Also, this will not filter as well as a normal by-pass setup because it is using high flow filters (that do not filter as finely as a by-pass filter).
See post #12 for a by-pass filter.
Just looked up the part number (7201045). That is not a flathead by-pass filter setup! That is a remote filter adapter for a modern car. The by-pass adapter they are referring to is the part that replaces the OEM spin-on filter on a modern engine. You remove your existing spin-on filter and replace it with the by-pass adapter and run the hoses to the remote mount which is where the spin-on filter now goes.
THIS IS NOT INTENDED FOR A FLATHEAD ENGINE!!!
This setup is for a modern Ford V8 engine that comes from the factory with a spin-on filter and you need to relocate that filter to a remote location.
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Ronnie
Well-known member
Has a 95% oil filter with appropriate mods (drilling and plugging the oil passage in the block) been done to your engine or was the beehive just installed without any mods? You could take a picture of the hoses and post them. If you have a modified filter system the ac or fram filters are correct.(using a restricted orifice in the system could be a called bypass)
If you don't have a modified system then the filters are incorrect to be used as a bypass depth filter system. There is a distinct difference pertaining to filtration. There is surface filtration that is usually pleated paper seen on all the cars driven today. There is also depth filtration that is used for a traditional canister system that is referred to as bypass used with an orifice that only filters a portion of the flow as described in previous posts. You need a restriction in the system to accomplish the depth filter to work correctly. Just because the filter assy is mounted remotely it doesn't become a bypass filter. It is only a remote mount. Look closely at the filters i posted with the restriction built in.
R
JSeery
Member Emeritus
This is the Speedway part number for a flathead by-pass filter setup, 91099457GS. It is not a part they carry anymore, but they did have some old stock for sell.
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Garag...-On-Head-Mount-Oil-Filter-Assembly,43950.html
A bee-hive setup should be similar to the original by-pass systems and will not be set up for use with a remote filter.
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Garag...-On-Head-Mount-Oil-Filter-Assembly,43950.html
A bee-hive setup should be similar to the original by-pass systems and will not be set up for use with a remote filter.
Ronnie
Well-known member
Here is the traditional beehive canister it uses a standard bypass cartridge.
The orifice for restriction is visible. This is nothing more than a fancy canister that is the same as what flatheads and many other engines used for years. What you describe is a modified system that uses a spin on. That is why the orifice is required to make the filter become a true bypass system.Without
an orifice on a non modified system using spin on you would have reduced oil pressure.
R
The orifice for restriction is visible. This is nothing more than a fancy canister that is the same as what flatheads and many other engines used for years. What you describe is a modified system that uses a spin on. That is why the orifice is required to make the filter become a true bypass system.Without
an orifice on a non modified system using spin on you would have reduced oil pressure.
R
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rick r
Senior Member
I agree with Straightpipes. There are several options for the filter parts needed. I rigged up a system to use a spin on filter mounted in the by pass filter container on my 8ba. Bought the spin on adapter at Carquest. Ifv you want more info e mail me at springgrange@personainternet.com
Re: 8BA Oil Filter with offenhauser heads
Guys, I'm new with flatheads but the car 1941 dexx coupe came with offenhauser heads but the filter was left on with a pipe going to the oil pan Only so what should I do to get some filtration? I assume pipe to pan is the return ,the fitting on the filter is blocked with a bolt? Shoul this go to the top of engine, thks john
Guys, I'm new with flatheads but the car 1941 dexx coupe came with offenhauser heads but the filter was left on with a pipe going to the oil pan Only so what should I do to get some filtration? I assume pipe to pan is the return ,the fitting on the filter is blocked with a bolt? Shoul this go to the top of engine, thks john
JSeery
Member Emeritus
Back of the engine on the bellhousing, drivers side. Same location as the Oil Pressure Sender. The attached file is for an add-on oil filter that uses a drain (return) to a hollow bolt in the front cover. Your filter has the return to the oil pan. It shows the inlet connection point. Remember that there has to be a restrictor (around .060) in the input line/side.
The second photo shows the oil ports on the rear of one of my blocks. The hole nearest to the center of the engine will not exist on your block, that is a hole drilled for a modification to the stock oiling system. The ports you need are the ones more toward the outside edge (has a brass fitting in it in the photo). There are two holes in this area, one almost straight up and one pointing outward toward the drivers side.
The second photo shows the oil ports on the rear of one of my blocks. The hole nearest to the center of the engine will not exist on your block, that is a hole drilled for a modification to the stock oiling system. The ports you need are the ones more toward the outside edge (has a brass fitting in it in the photo). There are two holes in this area, one almost straight up and one pointing outward toward the drivers side.
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Straightpipes
Well-known member
Reading this thread I wonder how many of these folks actually know how the flathead oiling system works.
I can't imagine preferring a system which filters some of the oil to one that filters all of the oil.
I can't imagine preferring a system which filters some of the oil to one that filters all of the oil.
To bring into perspective the size of a micron I found the below info on Parker Filter site .... I wouldn't get to carried away on too small of micron filtering unless you have the pressure to push it through.....
Hmmm. 20 + 10 + 5 does not equal 40. Good diagram but the math doesn't quite work.
Perhaps we fully understand how the stock bypass system works, proof of how well is there when you change the filter. All that schmuck around the filter is the schmuck that's not circulating around the engine.
It works very very well, plain and simple.
As I said, much better than no oil filter.
The big plus over a "full flow" filter being, it can be added to an up and running engine, easy and with stock parts. A full flow can't, it has to be done at full strip down time. And never looks as tidy as the stock setup.
I think it works much better than you give it credit for.
Martin.